Well yes the bar is a pain, so are the jib wires. Took care of those issues and love the boat. It cost about $50 to have a canvas shop sew the jib cutouts. As far as tacking do not throw the helm over too hard. Also keep the slot open, that was the biggest go fast I learned. As far the boom height I don't think it is much different. The weather helm issue has nothing to do with pivmatics, it probably your rudders are not going all the way down. However pivmatics are cheap compared to reglassing your stern.
Edited by golfdad75 on Jun 18, 2011 - 07:28 PM.
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Nacra 5.2
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More 5.2 advice
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Posted: Jun 18, 2011 - 07:08 PM
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Posted: Jun 19, 2011 - 05:24 PM
The 5.2 is certainly a more complicated boat than a prindle or hobie 16 But I still love it. The main culprit for making it cramped for sitting is usually the daggerboard but the jib lines, barberhaulers and center beam also contribut to that. There a number of simple changes you can make to realy improve comfort. Most have us have done most if not all of these. If you aren't racing there are a couple of tricks so make is easier.
To clean off the tramp.
1. Jib Lines under the tramp
First get yourself a wishbone type pop riveter from harbor freight (about $20).
Make an order from murrays or west marine or whatever local boat shop is available for the following:
30 - 3/8"long by 3/16" diameter stainless steel rivets.
4 - stainless steel fairleads.
Get a #4 grommet tool from murray's with some grommets (pricey at $36 but worth it, or you can borrow one)
20 ft of 3/16" vectran or dyneema rope
A split shroud cover or lenght of plastic hose
Look at where you jib lines are attached to the beams and drill and rivet the fairleast at the same location under the trampoline. In the tramp itelf place 2 grommets for the jib lines One just behind the daggerboard one just in front. Run the low stretch line though the 2 grommets only abot the tramp for that 2 or so feet and attach to the fairleads as tightly as you can. Protect the line above the tramp with the split shroud cover or hose. Attach the jib blocks so they are right beside the dagger and run a line back through the grommet to the rear fairlead to keep it in position. Moving the blocks forward loses you a bit of performance but gains you space on the tramp.
2. Remove the barberhaulers if you got them.
Again these aren't really needed unless you are want high performance.
3. Remove the central beam.
Make sure the beams are setup properly and simply rivet the beam straps to the beams. Remove the central beam and front casting. Leave the rear casting as a handy foot rest when you are on the helm (especially useful when you are tall).
Likely a days work and close to $100 investment.
Weather helm.
Likely you aren't getting the rudders down far enough. If yours are adjustable adjust the screws so they are forward all the way. If they aren't you probably aren't getting them down far enough. There is a pin in the castings that yoru downhaul has to go OVER. If you don't do that it is harder to get them down. If you are still having problems you can rig up a 2:1 downhaul pretty easilty with a couple of small blocks and some extra line. I have a picture of that here:
http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=74162 that got rid of all my weather helm issues.
Tacking
Tacking is a little different process than on an H16 and can be tricky until you get the hang of it, I think because of the hull shape. Anyway here is something to practice.
1. Prior to the tack make sure you and your crew are close to the rear of the bot and on the hull.
2. Make sure you are pointing as high as you can with speed.
3. To Start the tack gently push the rudder to about 45 degrees (not hard over!!)
4. Stay on that hull until you are head to wind (so the leeward hull is light in the water and will come around faster).
5. When you are head to to wind or a little past blow a foot of traveller , do NOT release the jib.
6. When you are past head to wind smoothly move to the other side to end up at the dagger (don't move the rudder, don't release the jib). Make sure you do this before you are so far over that the hull you are on starts to sink and you threaten to capsize.
7. When you are on the new tack, release the jib and set. Bring the mainsail back in and trim as needed.
You can also improve things a bit by raking the mast back 12-18". But then you will get a little more helm.
It sound complicated but once you do it a few times you won't even think about it any more.
Setup
The trick to a quick setup is to leave as much of the boat put together as possible and use quick pins for the running rigging and various connections.
Once you get your rig set to where you like it. Remove as few things as possible to trailor it. Velcro or bungie ties are your friend!
For instance when you bring the mast down and release the forestay, immediately bungie your trap wires forestay, halyards and shrouds to it. Move the whole unit onto your mast support and secure (this way you don't have to rig all the pins again). Instead of removing the rudders tie them into the up position and secure the whole works to the rear beam for trailoring. Leave your jib sheets rigged if you can.
Get yourself some quick pins!! You can use the cheap detent pins to attach your boom to the gooseneck and your rudder cross beam and hiking stick to the rudders. To attach the main block to the traveler car and the boom use Snap shackles. If you can find the Victory brand ones they are quite a bit cheaper than Harken or Ronstan. Yes they may not be as high quality but I have yet to break them and use them on both sides of the main block and to attack my jib sheet to the jib clew.
To attach your jib to the jib hanger and the main sail to the outhaul car get the high quality push button quick pins, you need the strength and security there. I normally store my boat mast up but when i do trailor I can get the boat together if about 15-20 minutes whith all that stuff.
If you do all that the only ring ding clevis pin you will need to use is on the forestay. You do not want to use a quick pin there.
Hope that helps. I think the main problem with the boat is probably the fact that it is so different than what you are used to. I hope you stick with it a bit and see if you can figure it all out. I know I love mine! If you need more advice or if you think I said something that wont work for you feel free to post or pm me. I know others will have different options an opinions than I have for sure, but that has been my experience.
Regards,
Dave
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Posted: Jun 19, 2011 - 07:09 PM
The simplest is to buy a 5.0 or a 5.7! No boom, no boards, no clutter. Just a wide open tramp for the gals to sun on
Edited by Edchris177 on Jun 19, 2011 - 07:10 PM.
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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
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Posted: Jun 19, 2011 - 08:46 PM
Don't rub it in. If I could find one and had the money I would get one. A 5.7 more than a 5.0. ;)
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Posted: Jun 23, 2011 - 11:17 AM
Thanks to all for the instruction. Going to slowly start on the changes for the boat to see if we are compatable.. Can I get the center bar out with out removing the tramp?? Rather not cut the bar.. And rather sure I cant with the tramp on any way. I was going to try to drill the rivets on the front xmember and slide the casting to the side a bit so I did not have to relace the tramp. Might hang out with the jib block wires for the summer and wait till winter to take off the tramp
I am having issues with the folks I got the new line/sheeet kit from. Most of the lines are smaller than what is on there now. They say that they are all standard Nacra size. Found a chart from salty dog and there are a few differences. Any one got a link from Nacra for the sizes?? Especially the rudder lines. Looking at some of the pix in the photo section here, the lines look some what larger than what i got..
With regard to relocating the jib block wire... I have seen some pixs showing the blocks mounted further out toward the rail than they are stock. I assume that that would take a barberhauler setup to trim the slot.. I nave none installed now.
Is the space (9 to 10 inches) that that line runs above the tramp enough to adjust the block for good performance?? It will need a second small line running back to the rear xmembar to secure and tack the block, right??
There is always a invite if you are in Cal N. Got an extra cat or two to use!! Cheers Hal
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Hal Liske
Livermore CA
H 16 (6+ 1.. Friends) H 3.2 N 5.2 (2) H 17 (2) H-18
Nacra 5.8 (son's) H 20 (Friends)
It's a Sickness
I Need a A Cat Please
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Posted: Jun 23, 2011 - 12:56 PM
You may be able to squeek the bar out if you drill out all the casting rivets on the front beam and slide it out. Maybe.
A listing of the lines sizes can be found here: http://www.columbussailin…_16_18_18-2_19_parts.pdf
Technically the jib blocks should be mounted about 30" from the rear beam. You can mount them more forward as long as it leaves you enough line to trim the jib. I believe I run my lines about 8" from the hulls. You don't really need the barberhauler setup.
Yes you need a second small line running to the rear beam to hold the jib blocks in position. 3/16" line works fine for this. You don't need much exposed jib line running above the tramp. 90% of people set the location once and never change it. If you are going to live with the above tramp lines for this season, play with the locations a bit and see where the best place for them is.
D.
Edited by Wolfman on Jun 23, 2011 - 12:56 PM.
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Posted: Jun 24, 2011 - 12:39 AM
Wolfman, that is exactly how I got rid of my center bar.
Halliske, maybe they are delivering the lines in millimeter sizes in stead of US imperial? -
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Posted: Jun 24, 2011 - 10:11 AM
OK Guys. Going to try to get the center post out today.. Worst case.. I can cut it first cuz the tramp cover is not covering the whole post.. The guy at New England cats suggested that I cut the tramp tube cover off with a "hot knife" Not sure what that is but frogot to ask. By the way.. They still stock the smaller mast balls.. Pricy but they have some..
Now time for a righting line.. The boat came with the end caps off of the front xmember and a line in each side with a bungi to a small block anchored to the oppsite side of the tube. How the hell would one get it out of the tube unless you were 7 ft tall?? Anyone got a plan that works.. I have no pockets in my tramp.. Thx Hal
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Hal Liske
Livermore CA
H 16 (6+ 1.. Friends) H 3.2 N 5.2 (2) H 17 (2) H-18
Nacra 5.8 (son's) H 20 (Friends)
It's a Sickness
I Need a A Cat Please
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Posted: Jun 24, 2011 - 11:22 AM
Why dont u keep the tramp tube cover on the trampoline. You could put waters in the back and righting line up in the front. If i didnt have any pockets i wouldnt get rid of it.
As for getting through the beams just use one of your battens to go from side to side. i actually have a old broken fishing pole i use for mine. Small diamater pvc, batten, etc -
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Posted: Jun 24, 2011 - 09:43 PM
Here is an easy righting line setup. The righting line is the thick line in the middle of the photo. I just bundle it up & leave it sit at the mast base. To keep it neater, you could put a "hockey elastic" around it. That keeps it all in a small package right at the mast base, though it usually takes a capsize for it to come off the tramp. Use a thick line, flip your boat, then throw the line over & try it. You will have to try it once to see where to place strategic knots as hand holds. I put a 1,5" SS ring in one of the knots, just where it lets me hang horizontal. That way I can put the ring on the harness hook, & use my arms for manipulating a bag, or just getting a rest while a buddy gets organized
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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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