All,
I am looking for ways to reduce the setup and takedown time of my new-to-me 2006 Capricorn. Setup is taking about 2 hours and take down takes about 1 hour. Granted, I am taking my time since I have only rigged the boat an handful of times.
One of the things I noticed is that the spinnaker's head, tack and clew fastens to their respective lines by tying a bowline at each attachment. Tying a bowline during setup isn't really an issue. However, at take down, it takes a while to bust each knot loose. I am thinking of putting a shackle on the head, tack and clew lines to make my life easier. Am I asking for trouble using shackles? I am worried about the spinnaker flogging and putting a rip in the sail. I will continue using a bowline knot for the retrieval line since a shackle there would hurt the sail.
Your thoughts?
Thanks in advance!
Eric
Shackles on Spinnakers
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I'm not a spin user but metal shackles don't sound like a good idea both for wear and tear and also weight. There are "soft shackles" that might help. But the real question, is it really necessary to detach the lines from the spin?
One key to reducing your setup/take-down time is to eliminate everything possible from the process.
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Damon Linkous
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Hi Eric, shackles are a no go on a spin for the reasons stated (weight and rips)
I have never spent more than 20 seconds undoing a bowline knot that was correctly tied.. is it possible you may be tying them incorrectly?
Rigging will get much faster after the 800th time :) -
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If you store your spin in the sock/bag, on your boat then you can leave your lines attached (as i do)
if you remove your spin after each use (to maximize it's life, shape, etc).. then you gotta remove tack/clew/ and a retrieval (some tie a "temp" line in for easier re-rigging).
few suggestions:
sailing without your spin, work on other skills.
Also, perhaps a beater spin that could be left in the bag without much concern (mine has been in the bag months now) -
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I use a plastic shackles for the head and clew and a stainless Wichard quick release shackle for the tack.The plastic ones are made in England and I am not sure the manufactures name.They are 22 years old and still work great.One is red,one is green.They are very light but strong too.This is on my Hobie 21SE.I still need to tie one bowline to piggy back on the red clew shackle but it unties easy.
Bill 404 21SE
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Bill 404 21SE
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Andrew,
For each bowline I tie, I tell myself "the snake goes in the hole, around the outside and out of the hole". That's gotta be correct. I heard it on Jaws.
It may help to replace my lines. The spin lines (except for the clew) are Dynema and are pretty worn. They will probably be easier to untie with newer cordage. It sounds like shackles are out but I do like the idea of using plastic ones. I just have not seen plastic shackles in the West catalog, though, but I will research on the internet to see if I can find any.
I never thought about storing the spin in the bag on the snuffer pole. The only thing is that the boat is rigged so that the spin halyard and the retrieval line are one line. I would have to rig the spin before the mast is raised but keeping it in the sock would save some time. I'm not too worried about the spin, since it already is a beater.
My other spin problem is that I need to replace some blocks but the spin sheet is one continous rope. The ends are spliced together. Can someone point me to an article describing how to braid ends together? I can't tell by looking at the splice, how it was done.
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I leave my pole attached to my boat.. with flags (and flashlights at night) hanging off the back. This DOES create overhang (illegal in many states) and you run a risk of some idiot driving into your pole on the way home.
Rey unhooks his pole from the beam, and simply slides it back on the boat.
Since i leave mine in place, there is nothing to rig. the ONLY issue would be (rigging wise) that if your halyard/retr line is a bit to short you should untie the head of the spin and tie it somewhere so it can't get taught during stepping. on my cat i have enough slack to step/unstep BUT i tie the halyard/head to my bridal as a backup line (so i can have untie my forestay and still get back on the boat/ pop the spin halyard (that is now attached to my bridal) and can now self step)
ANOTHER issue with adding shackles (even plastic) is you now have more slack in your system/luff and could effect spin performance
Since the spin comes off the boat now, there has to be a way to remove the sheet. I cant recall your clew setup, but if the sheet is continuous, there has to be a pig tail that you tie in.
If you have to break the sheet apart (cut) to change out blocks.. then do it. But you can not RE-splice it. Used line does not splice well.
There are many ways to rig the sheets. What i do (and i may change it) is to add a 6" pig tail to my clew (dynema) with a eye splice on end of the pig tail. I "luggage tag it" (simply feed it through itself) around the clew, then i run my sheets so the bitter ends are both at the clew and i run each end through the eye splice and tie a stopper knot. Others simply tie the ends together on deck (with a small pig tail added to the center of the sheet/attached to the clew) ... again there are many ways to run it.
If you wish to learn to splice... there are several online sources. one i like is http://www.machovec.com/rope/splicing/splicing.htm. I strongly suggest you start with dynema/spectra (single braid) as this is easy to work with and a good way to start. I bought the Brian Toss splice tool and DVD. after watching the dvd i decided to never try splicing double strand rope... to hard for my A.D.D.
Edited by MN3 on Apr 07, 2011 - 09:10 AM. -
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I found out which plastic shackles that I have been using on my 21SE spinnaker,Lewmars Plastic Nab Shackles.They have held up for 22 years so far....Bill 404 21SE
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Bill 404 21SE
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