How were the blocks attached to the traveler? Is that a broken rivet or bolt? If you can I'd clean everything in sight, replace your sheet, lube all contact areas with McLube dry lubricant. http://www.westmarine.com…oduct2_11151_10001_21819
and go sailing.
i saw your advert on site..it is available for sale..i'm interest of buying the item..tell me final price of the item.money order or confirm cashier check will be mode of payment.if you are willing to selling item for me..so kindly provide your name and address and phone number to made out the check and also get back to this private email address:
i will looking forwards to hear from you as soon as possible.
Note:get back to me with your name and address and your phone number so that i can send the payment to you in timely manner...okay
Damon,
I basically did what you said last year and sailed it one season. I replaced the missing bolt but in the process lost 2 bearings form the traveler and now it seems rough and loud when it "travels". I cannot seem to find the correct bearings on the net.
You never mentioned the make of your boat, but it appears to be a Nacra. Look for a used traveler, Harken if possible. It will be an easy job. Remove the end stop, slide old one off, new one on replace end stop and you are done.
Looks like an old nacra traveler. I bet is has the rings with a bunch of small ball bearings in it. If you lose one or a few, it is about impossible to get them back in the car.
I would look into replacing the car with a Harken unit--you will have to make sure that the measurements of the track will work with the Harkens. Otherwise, seriously think about replacing the track as well.
The car you have pictured probably will not work out for you. You do not want your main traveler to be limited by a pin. You should either remove the pin system or tie a line under he top to have it permanently pulled up.
damon, i am of interest of buying advetisement, tell me final price of item, fake money order or fake confirm cashier check will be mode of payment. if i sound like borat, so as to make happy time buying tasteful adds. make hastefulness so to as provide person infromation in engrish. will be to make check for so over 1000$ of sale privacy. make hastful as for i krazy bout kat sail...oh yes, i most forget, my travelor need car alsos.
most numerous happy time, bob.
-- Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook!
bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON" --
Sorry thought my boat type was in my sig. I have a '77 Nacra5.2. It is what you described Dan. i got the bearings back in using the "shaving cream" method but in the process lost one in the grass.
I've been looking for a new travler system for a 5.2 also - I've found a company called Rig-Rite that has replacement parts for the old Kenyon (I think) nacra systems.... part number - KT-10507-SA it is priced at about half of what a new harken track and car will run so I'm going to go with the new myself. Ronstan also seems to make a nice replacement system - track and all...
-- Eric Mackey
Great Lakes and Beyond
NACRA 5.5 18sq & 5.2 --
As Dan said, you will have to be sure your new car fits the track. On the Harken site, under Technical, or Catalogs they have some diagrams with dimensions of different tracks. You can then cross reference any used car you buy, & see if it fits your track.
The Harken site will tell you what track # is compatible with what car. There are some warnings about the newer captive bearing cars not fitting the older tracks.
If you replace the track, check what the spacing for the holes is. It would be a pain to have to redrill all those holes.
Other considerations are traveler cleat base is supposed to be level, check the Nacra Manuals, I think a boomless system has a slightly different track orientation than the boomed models. A swiveling top on the car is not required, as the connection between car & block will allow for the change in angles that occurs as you sheet hard. you can see that in the photo of my 5.7 setup. My boat has the longer Harken car,(appx 4") they make a shorter one too, & it is easy to get replacement bearings for them if needed. You want your car to slide easily, so that it will move unassisted, even in light winds. Buy or borrow a car loader if you get a system with non captive bearings. It makes life easier. I've done it without one, didn't know the shaving cream trick at the time.
I believe your 5.2 uses a slightly different traveler sheet arrangement.
-- Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap --
EC, speaking of traveller cars. I notice you are using a 2:1 purchase setup on your traveller. You may want to add a stand up block and make it 3:1, a really simple modification that makes life quite a bit easier. Here is an example of what I'm talking about:
Looks like you don't have a signature set, if you want one here's how. At the top of the forums you'll see a link "Personal Settings" on that page there is a link "Manage Your Signature".
You may want to add a stand up block and make it 3:1, a really simple modification that makes life quite a bit easier.
I hadn't thought of that, mine is just set up as per the factory manual. The disadvantage is you would have to pull more line. It actually is surprisingly easy to work just the 2:1. When out in heavy wind, or if I have a newbie at the helm, I have hold of the traveler line, even if i'm forward in the "crew" position. I let the newb steer & sheet the main, with only a few verbal cautions. If they do pooch it, I use the traveler line as a "saved your ass" line, I can dump major power in an instant.
When soloing I hang the line around the the end of the beam, or hold it along with the tiller, & take the time to change it each tack. If it turns out I'm fighting to stay upright, I just travel out a bit. If the wind lets up, I can immediately travel in, without having to head up so I can go get the line without dumping. I thought the forces on that line would be higher, but it is easy to travel in or out using only one hand, even in 30 mph wind.
I find soloing that boat I have to be organized. It is very easy to tip once the wind gets up to 20 mph, I can fly a hull at 10 mph. I have the main in one hand, tiller/traveler line in the other, jib sheet hanging across my forward knee. It takes a bit more time to arrange them all each tack, but i can power up or down as needed or wind changes dictate.
-- Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap --
Good job, that's the way I wish everyone would do their signature, makes communication a lot better when you know basic name/boat/location when talking to someone.
Rather than, "yeah sdfsdfsdf that would probably work, but maybe you should try dfsd's suggestion".
I get a little aggravated because I know there are folks on the forums that I've met in person but have no idea who they are behind their usernames.