I know that some h18 hulls are more desirable than others. What years are known for good hulls, and what years were they not so good.
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Pete Knapp
Schodack landing,NY
Goodall Viper,AHPC Viper,Nacra I20
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hobie 18 hull geneology
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Posted: Jun 16, 2011 - 05:44 PM
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Posted: Jun 17, 2011 - 06:54 AM
What is your definition of a good hull? There were some early 80's hulls known as "red line" hulls due to the red glue used to connect the deck to the lower hull. You can/could see a red line where the glue shows through on the lip seam. I believe those were the light weight early hulls, I think they were also more prone to fatigue. So that gets back to the question of what you consider "good" traits for the hull.
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Scott,
‘92 H18 w/SX wings
‘95 Hobie Funseeker 12 (Holder 12)
‘96/‘01/‘14 Hobie Waves
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Posted: Jun 17, 2011 - 11:32 AM
Because of the change in ownership of Hobie over the years and lessons learned from years of production and warranties, there were many small changes in the hulls over the years. I'll try to make a timeline of the biggest ones.
1978-1983 Extremely strong heavy hulls, the original layup was nearly indestructible, and they sold a lot of boats in these years, which is why you still see so many Hobie 18's from this group still around.
1984-1986 Much lighter hulls due to a new fiberglass layup schedule, during the 80's these years were the hot ones for class racing because they were a lot lighter than earlier boats. Unfortunately the lightness came at the expense of the extreme longevity of the earlier (and later) boats. Nowadays if you find one of these in great condition it's still a good find IF you carefully inspect it around the front beams, and add the reinforcement that was done in later years.
1987-1988 Same hulls but with additional fiberglass added to the inside of the hulls near the beams. Also some large metal reinforcement plates are bolted to the sides of the hulls under the lip where the front beams and shrouds attach. to spread the load. Additionally, 1987 model year was when the upgraded rudder system (with plastic cams) was introduced when it was found that the old metal system didn't age well.
1989 + These hulls have the best fiberglass layup and combine the lightness of the lightest hulls but with more strength and stiffness. They incorporate all the improvements of earlier years without "patching". These hulls also have a redesigned dagger trunk that doesn't have the lip in the inside at the bottom. The 1989+ H18's are the best you can get, unfortunately by that time they weren't selling very many, so they are hard to find.
Others may be able to add more details, but I think that is pretty much the way it went.
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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN
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Posted: Jun 17, 2011 - 12:52 PM
You should post that in the tech gallery with maybe sample pics of each if anyone can supply them.
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Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
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Posted: Jun 17, 2011 - 02:24 PM
Great post Damon. Exactly the info that I was looking for. Do you know how much lighter the mid "80s
hulls are than the earlier ones? Biggest complaint I have about my '81 is that it is heavy.
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Pete Knapp
Schodack landing,NY
Goodall Viper,AHPC Viper,Nacra I20
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Posted: Jun 20, 2011 - 01:39 PM
Heavy usually means wet. OR multiple-times repaired.
I put the D-shaped reinforcements under the crossbar lips on EVERY Hobie 18 I ever owned and raced. None ever cracked - after my first brand new first hulls that cracked- and then were warranteed and replaced by the factory.
Note if people put wings on H-18s to make Magnums WITHOUT the D reinforcements you are making a grave mistake. -
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Posted: Jun 20, 2011 - 04:21 PM
No, I didn't want to give (guess) an actual number since I can't claim to have weighed a bunch of each. I do know that my 1992 (with SX wings) feels a lot lighter than my 1981 (with magnum wings). It's a combination of hull weight, stiffness, and age related water weight.
So I only know the difference is "A Lot" as measured by my lower back.
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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN
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Posted: Jun 20, 2011 - 05:33 PM
Please enlighten me about the d shaped reinforcements. I suspect that my magnum might be one of the converted ones. Can they be seen without taking things apart? Are they a Hobie part? As for weight,
I don't believe mine has much water weight. It is just heavy compared to my P16.
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Pete Knapp
Schodack landing,NY
Goodall Viper,AHPC Viper,Nacra I20
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Posted: Jun 21, 2011 - 09:05 AM
Yes, the D-shaped bracket mentioned is a stainless plate that replaces the little channel shaped plates under/inside the outside deck lip where the shrouds and beam bolts attach.
It bolts through the hull with four bolts, so the stress is transferred to the hull side instead of the deck lip. Hobie Part, see the H18 part diagram here.
http://2010.archive.hobie…upport/pdfs/PARTS_18.pdf
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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
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Posted: Jun 21, 2011 - 12:20 PM
Yeah Damon why wasnt this in the tech gallery? Lol! I would have not had this happen to me http://surfsidesailing.wo…y-h18-hull-failed-today/ I thought its was 86-88 so I bought an 84 but i learned fast about the issue. -
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Posted: Jun 21, 2011 - 02:46 PM
Ouch, that's sad to see. I'm developing quite a library of "1984 Hobie 18's with their bow broke off" pictures.
It is interesting that almost all of the failures I've seen have been with 1984 boats. This could be simply because they sold more boats in 84 than 85-86 or maybe there was a really crappy fiberglass worker at Hobie in 1984. Hey, maybe he was a disgruntled employee, I can just see it...
"I'll get you Hobie Cat! I'm laying up this fiberglass so it only lasts 20-30 years! That will show you."
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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
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Posted: Jun 21, 2011 - 04:19 PM
LMAO!!!!! Damon that is next level funny brother!!! -
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Posted: Jun 21, 2011 - 05:08 PM
So I need these for both front and rear cross bars? Ouch! Thats over $300 in parts. Anyone got some used ones? Did these come standard after a certain year?
It bolts through the hull with four bolts, so the stress is transferred to the hull side instead of the deck lip. Hobie Part, see the H18 part diagram here.
http://2010.archive.hobie…upport/pdfs/PARTS_18.pdf[/quote]
Edited by pknapp66 on Jun 21, 2011 - 05:10 PM.
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Pete Knapp
Schodack landing,NY
Goodall Viper,AHPC Viper,Nacra I20
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Posted: Jun 21, 2011 - 05:45 PM
No, the new boats used these for the shroud position and the front beam, but not for the aft beam.
Check for Hobie part 64130001 - RAIL REINFORCEMENT KIT, I think this has four of the plates and required bolts for about $60, that's enough for one position (front beam), so you need two kits to do front beam and shrouds.
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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN
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Posted: Jun 21, 2011 - 06:22 PM
Here's another hull failure from this years Spring Fever Regatta in Hartwell Ga. Think this was an 85 or 86
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Posted: Jun 21, 2011 - 06:40 PM
That is more reasonable. What is the recommendation for the rear beam. Install an access port to install the
kit, or just install the front kits?
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Pete Knapp
Schodack landing,NY
Goodall Viper,AHPC Viper,Nacra I20
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Posted: Jun 22, 2011 - 05:44 PM
Is it just the white 18's that are failing? I have a yellow '86 and I dont want the front to fall off.
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Jeff
Houston TX
1986 Hobie 18 Sail# 13031
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Posted: Jun 22, 2011 - 06:39 PM
Color shouldn't have anything to do with it. The color is just a tint added to the gelcoat, so has nothing to do with the strength of the build.
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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
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Posted: Jun 23, 2011 - 09:03 AM
all the pictures show white ones.
just having some fun.
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Jeff
Houston TX
1986 Hobie 18 Sail# 13031
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Posted: Jun 23, 2011 - 09:10 AM
Sorry I can't help myself.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WcU4t6zRAKg
Edited by Rider_55 on Jun 23, 2011 - 09:11 AM.
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