• DamonLinkous
  
  

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  Posted: Aug 10, 2011 - 02:58 PM

  rehmbo

  Damon-
  
  Checking out your pic, I noticed you had the rudders off but the castings still on. I suppose that's the easiest way, right? 2 nuts/bolts and its off... Would the nylock nuts start to wear after a while?
  
  Removing the cotter keys, pins, washers, bushings, etc. and getting it all back on in the right order is a real PITA. Consequently, I haven't been removing my rudders for my short 1-2 hour trips, but am starting to suspect its a bad decision in the long-run.

  
  We could probably start a five page thread on the subject of whether to trailer with rudders on or off.
  
  The "remove one bolt" method I use now was shown to me by a long-time Hobie 18 skipper who saw me struggling to remove my rudder system by pulling the pin. Seems the pins always get slightly bent and very difficult to remove, plus you end up with all those parts to keep track of.
  
  This method is much simpler, but does work best when you have the Hobie 20 style tiller bar connectors so you can separate the tiller arms from the tiller bar, but I did use this method on my 1981 that didn't have it.
  
  Most of my trips are in 500 mile range (one-way), if I was only going an hour or two I might not bother.
  
  

  rehmbo

  
  PS - what's the tang on the comptip for? Spin?

  
  Yes, the previous owner had planned to add a spin to the boat but sold it to me before that was done. I've considered adding the spin but don't want to take the "spin on a non-spin boat" Portsmouth hit for a jury rigged system on a boat that already has a giant jib.
  
  I do have "spinnaker-envy" every time I'm in a mixed fleet though.
  
  --
  Damon Linkous
  1992 Hobie 18
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• al.reed
  
  

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  Posted: Aug 10, 2011 - 05:44 PM

  Damon, I have considered using a clevis pin instead of a bolt and nut system for the rudders. I also remove my rudders so they don't wear my rudder lines out bouncing around. I am trying to find a quicker way to attach and detach the rudders.
  What are your thoughts on using a clevis pin with a ring ding?
  Also feeding the rudder lines through the rudder holes is a pain trying to tie and untie the knots. Do you have a suggestion on this?
  
  --
  Alex
  
  Prindle 16 "Shake & Bake"
  Portland, Oregon
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• DamonLinkous
  
  

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  Posted: Aug 10, 2011 - 06:25 PM

  al.reed

  
  What are your thoughts on using a clevis pin with a ring ding?
  Also feeding the rudder lines through the rudder holes is a pain trying to tie and untie the knots. Do you have a suggestion on this?

  
  The rudder system on the Prindle is completely different than the Hobie, so I don't really have any input on it. We've got lots of Prindle folks here, so chime in peeps!
  
  --
  Damon Linkous
  1992 Hobie 18
  Memphis, TN
  
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• Quarath
  
  

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  Posted: Aug 10, 2011 - 11:53 PM

  Right now what I do is leave the entire rudder system as once piece and pull the pins. I fold each side in on itself. Loosen the lines holding the rudders up a bit so the rudders can lay parallel to each other. I tie a bit of rope around the center to hold it all together and toss it in the catbox. It is doable by your self and pretty easy with a helper. Hardest thing is to make sure to keep the peices parallel so as not to bend your bolts connecting your cross piece to your tiller arms.
  
  I used to take the bolt out and untie the knots. (pretty easy if you tied a figure eight, not so much if your wife tried to help and tied and overhand). When I put nylon shims in to try to take out some slop i decided that was to much hassle so went tot he way I listed above.
  
  --
  Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
  Member: Utah Sailing Association
  1982 Prindle 18
  1986 Hobie 17
  1982 Prindle 16
  1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
  1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
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• al.reed
  
  

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  Posted: Aug 11, 2011 - 12:49 AM

  Thanks Dustin. It just seems like more of a hassle to remove the entire rudder/tiller system, but maybe I will try it.
  
  --
  Alex
  
  Prindle 16 "Shake & Bake"
  Portland, Oregon
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• kgatesman
  
  

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  Posted: Aug 13, 2011 - 06:36 AM

  I tow rarely so I remove the rudder and tiller. I am not so worried about the lines taking the beating, I worry more about the gudgeons coming out of the hulls, the rudder blade is a lot of load bouncing around on a moving trailer.
  
  The PO made a shelf about 10" x 8' that sets on the back of my hulls, the mast rests on this when it is down. He pulled the bolts and strapped the blades to the shelves too, rather than remove the whole assembly.
  
  
  
  Edited by kgatesman on Aug 13, 2011 - 06:41 AM.

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• Edchris177
  
  

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  Posted: Aug 13, 2011 - 11:34 AM

  I think I would remove my rudders, it's pretty easy on the Nacra. A coule weeks ago we pulled up behind a fellow towing an H16 to cottage country. I remarked tot he wife that his rudders looked pretty low. As we pulled up I saw the right one had ground about 3" off the tip, from dragging when the trailer hit a bump. Unfortunately he went another direction before we could flag him over.
  
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• rehmbo
  
  

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  Posted: Aug 24, 2011 - 10:42 AM

  Damon-
  
  Referring to to the H20 style rudder setup:
  
  

  Quote

  but does work best when you have the Hobie 20 style tiller bar connectors so you can separate the tiller arms from the tiller bar, but I did use this method on my 1981 that didn't have it.

  
  
  I'm intrigued. Is there a kit available, or does one get the parts individually from a Hobie dealer? Do you just replace the end caps of the tiller-arms and crossbar, or do the tubes also need to be replaced? Any gotcha's to beware of?
  
  --
  Jeff R
  '88 H18 "Jolly Mon"
  '10 C2 USA1193
  NE IN / SE MI
  cramsailing.com
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• DamonLinkous
  
  

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  Posted: Aug 24, 2011 - 11:20 AM

  rehmbo

  Damon-
  
  Referring to to the H20 style rudder setup:
  I'm intrigued. Is there a kit available, or does one get the parts individually from a Hobie dealer? Do you just replace the end caps of the tiller-arms and crossbar, or do the tubes also need to be replaced? Any gotcha's to beware of?

  
  Yes, there is a kit (pair of connectors) available in the Hobie catalog, page 21.
  http://static.hobiecat.co…ing-parts-spring2011.pdf
  
  I think it costs about $120, one of those things that sounds real expensive but once you have you can't live without.
  
  Tiller crossbar doesn't need to be replaced, the connectors rivet onto the existing bar. These also give you fine-tune adjustments for rudder tow-in.
  
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  Damon Linkous
  1992 Hobie 18
  Memphis, TN
  
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• rehmbo
  
  

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  Posted: Aug 24, 2011 - 11:54 AM

  Doh - I've looked through that catalog a dozen times
  Sounds like my next minor project.
  Thanks!
  
  --
  Jeff R
  '88 H18 "Jolly Mon"
  '10 C2 USA1193
  NE IN / SE MI
  cramsailing.com
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• Drummer63
  
  

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  Posted: Aug 24, 2011 - 12:00 PM

  I have P16 - take the rudder system off when you tow. The rudders bounce like crazy otherwise. It is easy to take em of and put em back on -easier than rethreading and retying the lines. Just my 2cents
  
  --
  85 Prindle 16
  "If you aint the lead dog the view never changes"
  North Carolina
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• coastrat
  
  

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  Posted: Aug 24, 2011 - 01:42 PM

  
  
  
  
  this is how i trailor...2 - 3/8" lines tied up rudders TIGHT off of springs and go for it. have logged over 70 trips @ 140 miles round trip each...even made a few 3 hour one way trips with absolutely no problems. takes about 1 minute to untie and about 5 minutes to tie.
  
  
  
  Edited by coastrat on Aug 24, 2011 - 01:48 PM.
  
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• delaunhe
  
  

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  Posted: Sep 01, 2011 - 05:00 PM

  When I sail I have to drive three and a half hours pulling my boat. I like to always think I am prepared so I keep two spare tires on the trailer at all times. I replace the tires on the trailer every two years by putting my new spares on the boat and using the old ones as spares. It is also a very good idea to carry a full hub setup.....meaning all you have to do is slid it on the axle and then bolt on tire. You do not want to be running to walmart after you have a flat or bearing go out. I also carry a hydraulic jack....even tho my truck has a jack that can be used. Once again this provides me with a hot standby if one does not work. Don't forget the lug wrench.......It is also important to make sure your fender covers the wheel......when my cat is on the trailer, it is very close to the tire, so if it blows.......I could end up with the rubber beating my boat to death before I have a chance to pull over. I plan install spacers on cradles to lift it up higher.
  
  You do not have to cover the boat when trailering. Never put your boat on a trailer that has rollers....always use cradles. Leave the rudders off so they do not bounce around and damage the rudders or boat.
  
  I also like to make sure my mast is even with the back of the boat so when I stop.....some DA will not run into me. This may be over kill, but I also like to mount my lights on the back cross beam. This way the DA's in back of me can clearly see my tail lights when I apply breaks.

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• robpatt
  
  

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  Posted: Sep 02, 2011 - 08:53 AM

  Ed... LOVE your signature pic... but doesn't look anything like you ... In fact, you must have taken that pic from the back of my boat!
  
  These things are GREAT for use in pulling the rudder pins to just take off the whole rudder assembly... in about 10 seconds...
  
  http://www.murrays.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MS&Product_Code=25-220&Category_Code=
  
  Hope to see you around the coast again!
  -Rob
  
  
  
  Edited by robpatt on Sep 02, 2011 - 08:53 AM.

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• turbohobo
  
  

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  Posted: Sep 02, 2011 - 12:14 PM

  On my P18, I used to use the pinched rope method as shown by coastrat, recently though I decided to remove my rudders by pulling the pivot pin, 1st though you need to remove the rudder lines and undo the knots, had to use a screwdriver and pliers to coax them loose from being tied for many years. But once undone they can be retied and undone much easier, now all I do is push the line so knot pops out through the little port, undo both knots, remove rudder pivot pin, throw rudder in sailbox, tie lines together using slip knot, takes less than 5 min to remove/install rudders using this method, lock nut and bolt take an 11 mm metric socket.
  
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  TurboHobo
  H14T
  H16
  P18
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• smfinley
  
  

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  Posted: Sep 02, 2011 - 01:21 PM

  The H20 tiller disconnect is great, well worth the cost and minimal install time. I put them on my H18 when I was still trailering it around. Makes removing the rudders so easy.
  
  I just pull off the crossbar and then drop the two rudder pins out the bottom. Your rudder pins should not be getting bent from one sail to the next if you trailer all the time. If they are getting bent enough to be hard to remove, there is likely something wrong with your rudder adjustment/setup. I do have the stainless pins.
  
  --
  Scott,
  ‘92 H18 w/SX wings
  ‘95 Hobie Funseeker 12 (Holder 12)
  ‘96/‘01/‘14 Hobie Waves
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