I've got a new to me 82 P16 that has sat for the past 10 years. I know rule of thumb is to replace the standing rigging on a boat like this but to what extent? Do I really need to replace the Jib block cables?
Replace everything from the shackles, pins and all shrouds, stays, bridle, trap and adjusters
or
Replace the Stays, Shrouds, bridle, trap lines, and inspect the pins / adjusters / Clevis
Current Standing looks ok there are some bends (not a hard kink) in the stay and shrouds and no rust or fraying but its all covered in the vinyl so who knows what it really looks like under there.
A full re-rig is going to be about $430 Plus $220 in running / tramp line(both of which are totally shot) ...Not that I'm objecting to it as its a matter of safety Just want to know how crazy to get. Plus even a best case dismasting will cost you a full re-rig let alone the other damage it will cause.
I'd rather do it right the first time and feel and be safe out there.
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Bob Miller
1983 P16 Sail # 7312
"Miller Time" A work in progress; out of the water for 16 years
Barnegat Bay NJ
Beach Cat Lesson #1 - A free cat isn't
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Standing Rigging Questions
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Posted: Dec 07, 2011 - 08:19 AM
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Posted: Dec 07, 2011 - 09:14 AM
The danger is that you can't see the damage/oxidation.
We have a P18 which is our most used boat. about 40 sails this year and 50 both last year and the year before. I check everything about every month. And still the bridle just blew up on us in 20 knots of breeze upwind and 2 trapeze. It just held on with half of the remaining wire. just enough to get us back to the beach.
We are moving from copper talurits to swaged terminals on all our boats. The quality is just so much higher!
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Stefan, Denmark.
H14,H16,P16,P18,SC17,N5.8
Team StaySail
http://www.staysail.eu
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Posted: Dec 07, 2011 - 09:36 AM
Going to the SS hydraulic swages are great, and is what I use, but you will still have failure. You can't see the corrosion inside that swage. They will fail without any visual warnings. As I have preached here so many times, replace your standing rigging, including diamond wires and forstay bridals, on a time schedule. If you don't know how old your rigging is, you should replace it.
Learning this the hard way is expensive and dangerous, and you could lose your rig. Don't ask me how I know . . .
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Philip
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Posted: Dec 07, 2011 - 04:33 PM
salty dog has the standing set(no jib blocks) for 150$...
new trap wires are nice, i wouldn't sweat the jib blocks yet...
fresh tramp lines, rudder lines are good...otherwise only replace the lines that need it, throw them in a laundary bag and wash them, it does wonders
Edited by coastrat on Dec 07, 2011 - 04:44 PM.
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bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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Posted: Dec 07, 2011 - 10:33 PM
All my running rigging is shot or of the Home Depot variety so it's gone. Salty Dog is much cheaper than Murray's I'll get the Kit, plus the trap wires and halyard. My current halyard has some slivers sticking out of one of the eyes so its gone.
Is it worth replacing the pins and clevis too? or are the stout enough not to break down. Same goes for the adjusters. I'd Imagine they are fine but don't want to find out the hard way.
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Bob Miller
1983 P16 Sail # 7312
"Miller Time" A work in progress; out of the water for 16 years
Barnegat Bay NJ
Beach Cat Lesson #1 - A free cat isn't
Find more Prindles on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/173120656090532/
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Posted: Dec 08, 2011 - 08:43 AM
i have never seen /heard of a pin breaking, but 100's of times heard of quick pins failing and ring dings disappearing (they should be taped)
i have seen many adjusters break - i would replace them if any rust is around, if they are old, soak in some acid, clean real well and use a magnifying lens to examine them. If in doubt at all, replace, they are very cheap parts (much cheaper than what the cost could be if they fail) -
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Posted: Dec 08, 2011 - 09:35 AM
Any bends in the adjusters are suspicious to, they get bent very easily and fail on the bend.
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Stefan, Denmark.
H14,H16,P16,P18,SC17,N5.8
Team StaySail
http://www.staysail.eu
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Posted: Dec 08, 2011 - 11:20 AM
Alright then I'll add new adjusters to the list and the spare pins & rings kit and replace as needed or lost in the sand.
Thanks for the help, Time to update the Christmas list
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Bob Miller
1983 P16 Sail # 7312
"Miller Time" A work in progress; out of the water for 16 years
Barnegat Bay NJ
Beach Cat Lesson #1 - A free cat isn't
Find more Prindles on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/173120656090532/
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Posted: Dec 11, 2011 - 06:45 PM
Forged shackles are expensive, but they don't often fail. If you look at the specs, ei, the 5/16" shackle at the mast hound is WAY stronger than the shrouds. I would not replace those items unless damage is evident.
I have seen it stated here many times, " the shrouds & fittings all look good, no visible corrosion". As Philip stated, the point of fail is almost alway inside the fittings, you don't see anything untowards, then it blows up.
I have bought stuff fromn Salty Dog, & they were good people. Just rmemenber, for getting a very low price you ae getting minimal line. It is also mostly the same color. I would look into buying a lengths of spyderline, or Sta Set, then cut the lengths you need. You can then use different colors for different lines.
Things like blocks, I would use till they fail. They are expensive, & unless you are racing, so what if a jib block goes south? Jerry rig something to get home. It is the htings that keep my mast up that i worry most about, if it comes down you can be hurt, & if you wreck the mast, well life just sucks. It's like insurance, don't bother with extended warranties on a toaster or TV, you insure against what you can't afford to cover if it happens.
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Posted: Dec 16, 2011 - 05:00 PM
bobcatnj-
I'm with Edchris177 and the others. I'd get new standing rigging before I changed out the lines. Take all your lines (rope) and put them in your washing machine in cold water and soap. Rinse twice. Now let them air dry and then inspect each one. You'll be amazed at how they clean up AND washing makes the wear show up more obviously. Now you can make a better decision on what to replace after you spend the bucks on new wire. Edchris177's comment about color is important too. Lines are much easier and faster to identify when they are colors. I may even splice a green/red jib sheet to help my many crews not grab the long end of the jib sheet during tacking.
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Sheet In!
Bob
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Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
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