replacing rigging this year and was thinking about dynema instead of wire. looking for someone with some experience with it for some advise. not afraid to learn to splice, i have some time before i sail again. looking for good priced line/thimbles company and some of your experiences with the product...took the wire rigging off of the boat and was surprised how heavy it was!!!
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bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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dynema standing/trap rigging
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Posted: Dec 23, 2011 - 07:02 PM
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Posted: Dec 23, 2011 - 10:11 PM
I haven’t gone to Dyneema for shrouds or trap wires but do use it spliced into my spin halyard, rotator and spin pole whisker lines. Making eye splices are very simple. I use a Micro Splicing Wand by Brion Toss to splice 3mm AmSteal.
Edited by nacra55 on Dec 23, 2011 - 10:12 PM.
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Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
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Posted: Dec 23, 2011 - 10:14 PM
Our trapeze lines are Dynema. I contemplated making my shrouds/forestay of Dynema but decided against it. It will stretch over time and unlike cable, UV will deteriorate it.
The trap lines are nice though and not difficult to make. Plus, they are easy to adjust if needed simply by re-positioning the splice. I did the math and as long as you make them yourself, they are cheaper than buying the pre-made wire trap lines. -
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Posted: Dec 24, 2011 - 06:50 AM
Do a search of the archives, there is a pretty good thread about a year ago regarding synthetic standing rigging. Some of the cons were chafing up near the hound, & risk of vandalism if you store mast up.
I found a broken strand in a trap wire, I ordered an entire spool of Syderline & changed them, along with the jib halyard.
Depending on what you are using for handles on your trap, you will have to modify things. The common plastic "T" handles do not have a big enough hole to accept the line. I also ditched the dogbones & went to a loop of line with a plastic tube to keep it open. I got that idea from another poster here. He has a photo of it in a thread.
http://www.thebeachcats.c…ms/viewtopic/topic/11518
http://www.thebeachcats.c…ms/viewtopic/topic/12945
Edited by Edchris177 on Dec 24, 2011 - 07:03 AM.
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Posted: Dec 24, 2011 - 09:03 AM
The line you have is too big mate.
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Philip
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Posted: Dec 24, 2011 - 09:36 AM
looking at the specs, will 1/8" line work for traps?...it almost looks unbelievable @ over 2000lbs. tinsel strength...freakin' amazing...
what size would you use for shrouds/forestay?
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bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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Posted: Dec 24, 2011 - 10:11 AM
Yeah, I never considered the handle when I bought the line. I bought a large spool of Spyder Line, it ends up being thicker than some of the pure dyneema, but I thought the double braid cover would be good for knots, abrasion,& UV.
I got rid of the steel jib halyard when I went to roller furling, the steel main halyard, & the trap lines. I don't know exactly how much weight it saved, & on an '84 boat with older sails, it probably is hardly measurable. BUT, it comes in bright lime green, & other cool colours, & the cool factor is worth something!
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Posted: Dec 24, 2011 - 10:45 AM
After wearing those old fashion uniforms for years, Fly Boys neeeed a Cool Factor !!
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Livermore CA
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Posted: Dec 24, 2011 - 12:47 PM
No kidding, the hats are useless at keeping the sun out of your eyes, or your ears warm, & they blow off at the first hint of wind.
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Posted: Dec 24, 2011 - 06:34 PM
I have a wand too.. it works and is neat but completely not needed and the dvd i got was mostly double braid stuff... i dont want to learn how to splice double braid... -
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Posted: Dec 24, 2011 - 08:12 PM
i saw a youtube vid(short) of a guy splicing single braid with some bailing wire...didn't look that hard to do. watched some on double braid(long) screw that, i'll buy rigging, it only takes a few seconds. BUT...not afraid to play with some trap lines to get the hang of the material...it's relatively cheap. prolly just buy standing rigging set this time around til i get familiar with the dyneema dynamic. this is the first year in a few that i don't have some major repairs/projects so i may want to enjoy it.
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bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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Posted: Dec 24, 2011 - 11:50 PM
Aye, double braid splicing blows. Last winter I spent 6 hours one night trying to create one sta-set eye splice, and could never get the final step (cover over core iirc) accomplished. I called APS the next day and asked what they would charge to do it and the response: "3/16? Can't be done." I felt good about that, and about abandoning splicing double braids from there one out. I've made a few 5/16" eye splices that look and work fine, but they still took a ton of time compared to single braids...maybe 10x or so.
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Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
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Posted: Dec 26, 2011 - 11:21 AM
Yep. So easy a caveman . . .
I splice alot of 7/64" and you can make/find the tools to do it standing on the beach. What I carry and use regularly to slice this stuff is some boxing tape and a piece of 4 to 5" coat hanger wire or similar.
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Philip
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Posted: Dec 26, 2011 - 03:49 PM
i read on some of the other threads about protecting the upper 6" or so of the line next to the mast hound..what do you use for that?...also, what kind of thimbles do you use to attach to the hound and to the trap harness line or can you just tie a loop at the top a-la-truckers hitch to the hound(double trap line) and tie to a ssring for dogbone end? i know you lose much strength with knots compared to splices but 7/16" dyneema can tow a semi...freakishly strong stuff. definitely don't have a problem splicing to thinbles though...can see where coat hanger and shipping tape come in handy.
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bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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Posted: Dec 26, 2011 - 04:25 PM
You can probably make a continuous line for the double trap and do as you say. Just make sure you have at least double the strength you need because you will lose half in the bend. Better to use stainless sailmakers thimbles and a proper splice if possible.
I would coat the bilne for the top 4' or so with a product like Yale Maxijacket and also use a split plastic cover (like the ones you use near the bottom to protect the wires).
Regards,
Dave
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Posted: Dec 26, 2011 - 07:19 PM
I think I said 7/64". Is that a typo or an endorsement to tug a ship. No place on your boat for 7/16"
You can do it several ways, splice a short tail in a larger size (i.e. that 7/16"
) to the trapline, or cover the area to protect with a double braid cover, or tape the snot out of it, etc. There are lots of ways to do it. SS thimble a must. If you go this route you want to get in the habit of inspecting the lines every time you go out. Replace if frayed or abraded.
Something to think about, when your weight is on the trap which is the most stressful time, the masthound is always pointing towards windward, and there is a clean path from the hound shackle on down. The leeward trap lines are not under load, but usually are pinched under the shrouds.
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Philip
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Posted: Dec 26, 2011 - 07:55 PM
oh yeah, typo, i imagine 7/16" is tug-boat strong. seems like one of those things that's nice to buy a roll of it...slit it up with some friends and have fresh trap lines for years...
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bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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Posted: Jun 21, 2018 - 06:07 AM
Actually we use 1.25 inch and bigger
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Captain Chris Holley
Fulshear, TX
'87 Prindle 19 "¡Hijole!"
'74 sunfish "1fish"
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