Line Size Length qty Color PPF Line Type
Barberhauler 1/4 16 1 white Red 0.55 Sta-Set
Batten Ties 3/32 2 8 White 0.3
Downhaul 1/4 15 1 blue 0.55 Sta-Set
Jib Clew Bridle 3/16 6 1 black 0.34 Sta-Set
Jib Halyard 5/32 22 2 Yellow 0.35 Excel Pro - Marlow
Jib Sheet 5/16 33 1 Red 0.67 Sta-Set
Main Halyard 3/16 26 1 White Blue 0.34 Sta-Set
Main Sheet 3/8 40 1 Red 1.69 Salsa
Rudder Down 3/16 4 2 Red 0.34 Sta-Set
Rudder Up 3/16 5 2 Blue 0.34 Sta-Set
Righting Line White Blue Old Main
Tramp Lacing Rear 3/16 11 1 Black Kit
Tramp Lacing Side 5/32 11 1 black Kit
Trapeze 1/4 3.5 4 Black 0.55 Sta-Set
Tarpeze Shock cord 1/4 0.46 Novatec
Traveler 5/16 10 1 Grey 1.21 Salsa
With some Christmas money and gift cards burning a hole in my pocket I started to work out my list of parts. The running rigging is the most confusing one for me since it's part science part art/experience. Since I've never had this boat on the water I'm running blind. I've done a bunch of searches which lead me to my current train of thought.
Both SLO and Salty Dog offer re-rig kits but SD only comes in white and I like the idea of being able to customize my colors for better organization. I'm not keeping with the traditional red/green layout for the mast for several reasons...mostly because there is no green on the boat nor does the jib halyard come down the mast.
Please let me know if you think this is off base. I'm new to cats and new-er to sailing.
Sta-Set is the industry workhorse and very cost effective and fine for many applications but am I over using it?
Halyards: Traditionally you want minimal stretch; but with the wire halyard notch for the main and the luff taking the tension on the jib its should be moot point? I assume there will be little to no tension on these lines while the sails are up?
Barberhauler/ Jib sheet/Clew Bridle: as a crusing sailor will Sta-Set be appropriate in these 3 applications?
Main / Traveler - Since I'm going to be handling these lines all the time and I'll be taking them with me when the sailing is done, I'm going for high tech and hand feel Salsa Braid. Ok mostly hand feel its a old non racing cat. Question here is 3/8 and 5/16 the best combo of sizes to go with? or should I go 3/16 all around? I want to be sure it will run freely through the blocks. I'm also debating a tapered splice between the 2 lines (different colors) or a double sheet bend
The rest of the lines are rudder up/dn and tramp lacing which I'm not overly worried about stretch.
The existing rigging was totally shot, rotten, faded and frayed I'm not going to reuse any of it except for the old main sheet which will be my Hawaiian righting system.
Thoughts?
Edited by bobcatnj on Dec 31, 2011 - 02:02 PM.
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Bob Miller
1983 P16 Sail # 7312
"Miller Time" A work in progress; out of the water for 16 years
Barnegat Bay NJ
Beach Cat Lesson #1 - A free cat isn't
Find more Prindles on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/173120656090532/
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P16 Running Rigging Questions before I order
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- Rank: Mate
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Posted: Dec 31, 2011 - 12:46 PM
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- Rank: Chief
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Posted: Dec 31, 2011 - 04:36 PM
looking good!...one thing i saw was your lib halyard, that is a two piece job with sister clips hog pinned on. after you raise and hook the jib, you unclip the lower section of the halyard and zip the upper section in the luff. i like a thicker line for my main sheet for comfort sake, on light air days you can switch the main block off of the ratcheting mode for easier release. sta set works fine and holds up, good bang for buck...i just got my new set of standing rigging in the mail today...COME ON SPRING!!!
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bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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Posted: Jan 02, 2012 - 11:34 PM
Rudder lines are very important to be no stretch. Tramp lacing will be better if it is ow stretch as well. Get some good 1/8 inch form west marine for tramps side lacing.
Don't over think it. My first season my sheets were from Lowes(don't recommend it) and they only lasted one season but they got me on the water.
Main halyard I use a 1/4 in sta-set from west as well. Better on hands for raising than smaller stuff.
Jib halyard. If you have wire luff. I am not sure what you need if it is zipper luff then your jib halyard can be very light even 1/8th inch. I know a guys who used batten tie for his jib halyard because it only has to get it in and out of the ring. Sister clips at eh half way point to let you stow the excess.
My jib sheet is 3/8 sta-set as is my main but if want salsa for that I think it would be good. I am thinking of trying that or robline next time..
I don't have a barberhauler and if you have not sailed you might want to not bother with it till you get the hang of the things. Its will to the confusion of lines and only does much good downwind. ( My son is my barberhauler, I make him sit on the leeward and hold the jib out by hand going downwind. It's really fun when there are waves and every one of em catches him in the face.)
Many like the traveler to be separate from the mainsheet. I personally just use a continuous line for my main and traveler. I don't have much trouble telling which is which when I need to. I just put a stopper knot to keep the traveler form slamming into the end of the track.Some like to change the color for the traveler and tied them together with a follow through figure 8.
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Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
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Posted: Jan 04, 2012 - 12:21 AM
Your Prindle does not depend on running rigging for support in either of the halyards once the sails are hoisted- even if your main is reefed. The mainsail has stops on the wire halyard that hook to the mast, and the jib has an "S" hook that grabs the forestay- all metal to metal. Buy inexpensive (but durable) halyards. Spend the good money on all sail control, rudder and trapeze lines.
On my P16 I used a two part Mainsheet/Traveler line because they were two sizes in dacron. The mainsheet was 7\16" line and the traveler was 5\16". They were tied together with a double sheet bend, which never failed me in a decade of racing. The smaller line moved really well through the traveler cleats. If you use the new thinner stronger lines you may not need a smaller line for the traveler. Just make sure there is enough "heft" in the jib and mainsheets to allow you to uncleat them from the trapeze, if you use the newer light lines. Not being able to uncleat your sail in a puff is as important to you as it is a racer.
I miss my 16. Hope you have fun!
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Sheet In!
Bob
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Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
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Posted: Jan 04, 2012 - 09:35 AM
you dont want a lot of stretch in your main halyard as it will make hoisting it more of a PITA, esp if the track is already tight (pinched in any spots) or your bolt rope (in your luff) has swolled at all. -
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Posted: Jan 04, 2012 - 11:08 AM
i used 1/4" stay set on the main halyard also...it's easy to grip and nice on the hands. i drench the track on the mast each season with a decent spray silicone to ease hoisting, you can use sailcote if you want to spend the extra 20$...not at all necessary though, silicone spray works great. matter of fact, it works so good that you have to make an effort not to raise to quickly!(snag sail on something). you can spend much more for fancy lines that save weight/float and such but remember, it ain't no nacra 20 carbon were racing here! if you really want to shave a few pounds off of the boat, exercise and eat right, mayby switch to a light beer(god forbid). you'll be amazed at how fast the old girl is if you push her!...the p-16 is at its best @20kt winds and adove, the h-16 will beat you in light winds(less than 10kts.).
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bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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- Posts: 104
Posted: Jan 04, 2012 - 03:03 PM
So the deal is done... I think with a little help from APS I think I came up with a good mix of budget and performance. I agree with you Bill don't cut ounces from the line when you can cut LBS from the helmsman.
BTW check out my post in good deals about the APS sale 15% off running 20% off standing and the standing is from Murrays. Still not a cheap day but a full rerig, tramp lace everything but those stainless jib lines for $455. ouch but better than the $560 before the discount. I made sure I got the Hydro Swages done for the extra few bucks too
So here is the breakdown of the running rigging... I hope it formats better this time.
Line Size Line Type
Barberhauler___ 1/4 Sta-Set
Jib Sheet _______5/16 Sta-Set
Jib Clew Bridle 3/16 Sta-Set
Downhaul 1/4 Sta-Set
Jib Halyard 1/8 NE Finish Line
Main Halyard 3/16 Sta-Set
Main Sheet 3/8 Salsa
Traveler 5/16 10 Salsa
Rudder Down 3/16 Super PreStretch
Rudder Up 3/16 Super PreStretch
Trapeze 1/4 Sta-Set
Tarpeze Shock cord 1/4 Novatec
Righting Line 0ld Main
Batten Ties 1/16 Excel Vectran
Tramp Lacing Rear Kit
Tramp Lacing Side Kit
This should be overkill and reliable. C'mon spring.
If anyone wants my detailed breakout of this PM me. My only concern is the Vectran line being to thin but its $4 in line if i need to get the thicker stuff. Thanks for the help, hope this helps someone else
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Bob Miller
1983 P16 Sail # 7312
"Miller Time" A work in progress; out of the water for 16 years
Barnegat Bay NJ
Beach Cat Lesson #1 - A free cat isn't
Find more Prindles on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/173120656090532/
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