Hi,
I am trying to improve my hobie 14 rudder assembly as nothing seems to line up / stay locked down when sailing.
I have replaced the cams and plunger etc which has improved the system but I’m unsure of how the system is to work as it was brand new.
So first question, is there a particular technique to locking the rudders down when sailing without the cam locking and not grabbing the tiller arm? Nearly every time the cam seems to miss the pin on the tiller arm.
Also, when in the locked down position how much movement should the actual rudders have back and forward? Currently when locked down the rudders can move quite a few centimetres back a forward. Is the assembly to be completely ridged?
Thanks
Mark.
Hobie 14 rudder help
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- Rank: Lubber
- Registered: Jan 01, 2012
- Last visit: Jan 02, 2012
- Posts: 2
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- Rank: Lubber
- Registered: Apr 28, 2010
- Last visit: Jul 22, 2017
- Posts: 69
You should be able to lock down your rudders by simply pushing the tiller cross bar toward the stern (without really raising it) at each corner. There should be a discernible snap as each rudder cam locks onto the upper casting and holds it into place. Once in the locked down position, there should be virtually no fore/aft movement of the rudder. To manually release the rudders pull up on the cross bar to unlock them and pull forward to raise the rudders. The cams should rotate forward and not stay in the locked down position.
Once you have replaced any worn parts, it really is all in the adjustment. Of course don't forget proper lubrication. A properly adjusted and lubricated rudder system should function essentially like a new boat. A lot of guys that buy older boats don't realize this and think that a sloppy rudder system is just something they have to live with. Not so. The Hobie rudder system is simple and well designed. In my opinion, it is one of the best on any beach cat.
For what it's worth. a lot of rudder system parts are interchangeable between the H14 and H16. This includes both the upper and lower castings and the rudders themselves. You can always check the parts catalog to be sure. Beginning in 1983, I believe. both the 14 and 16 came with adjustable upper castings whereas the earlier ones did not. So, if yours is an older one you might want to consider swapping them out. There are lots of used parts out there for these boats. There is a guy who advertises used Hobie parts right here on thebeachcats.com classified.
There is a lot of information on the web regarding Hobie rudder systems. Here are a few articles to help get you started.
http://www.hobiecat.com/s…t/tech/rudders_cams.html
http://home.earthlink.net…hives/v1-i8/feature2.htm
http://www.thebeachcats.c…hives/v1-i7/feature1.htm
Enjoy your 14. I still have a 14 turbo in my fleet. It is a fun boat to sail in the surf.
Edited by DaveW70 on Jan 01, 2012 - 10:30 AM.
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Dave Wilson
Hobie 16, Hobie 14
Tampa, FL
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There are different locations for the holes to be drilled in the rudders for Hobies. Although some are slight differences they may mean a lot, or at least Hobie thought so. H-16 adjustable and non adjustable upper castings holes are different as well as H-14 adjustable and non adjustable holes being different. Over the course of time most rudders have been replaced and not always with the proper rudder. It is simple to fill the previous holes and redrill new ones. The local Hobie dealer should have a template for the different hole locations. I purchased my own (it is a metal template that fits on the rudder) and I am glad that I did. I have let many local sailors use it. -
- Rank: Lubber
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