Ok, so I have all new decals and pinstripes for my 5.0. I'm planning to strip off the old decals, clean with Bar Keepers Friend, apply Poliprep, install the new decals and pinstripes then apply Polyglow.
I figure I should get the hulls as clean as possible prior to applying the new decals but i'm not sure if I should Poliglow a coat or 2 before installing the new vinyl or vinyl first then Poliglow over it.
Thoughts on the order?
Also, can Poliglow be used on the rudders to seal them up? Mine keep getting stained!
Thanks,
Jimmy
Edited by flyingfishguy on Jan 23, 2012 - 09:48 PM.
i have seen the poliglow videos (saw it originally on Ship Shape TV) and i believe it is basically the same thing as newglass, newglass2 etc.. .and they all work the same
I have newglass2 and love it.
I would put the decals down first as the polyglow may be to slick to adhere to.
As long as your rudders are fiberglass it is fine to use polyglow on them. I dont know if there are adverse effects on polyester rudders (like the old hobie's) but i do know my newglass says do not use on non-fiberglass surfaces
We have used Sno Bowl for years to take scum off. It is a mild acid so be careful. We clean the boat and then if we can power wash it to rinse it. Then put any decals on and then put on a couple of coats of was, we have been using star brite with teflon for years. A coat or two in the spring and a coat after a wash in the fall before storage. JMHO, YMMV, Richard.
Here is the boat this summer with the old graphics scheme.
Here is the boat after removing all of the old, cracked vinyl graphics and after a good cleaning with Bar Keepers Friend and PoliPrep.
And now, with the new decals installed (thanks Bacho for emailing the vectored image files) and new pinstriping. Also, the picture is taken before applying PoliGlow.
Edited by flyingfishguy on Jan 27, 2012 - 09:30 PM.
black could get real hot in the summer sun...match head hot. but this would discourage anyone from standing/sitting on the foredecks and that's a good thing. the boat looks great! bet it looks even better with the poliglo.
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bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON" --
How did you make the turned aluminum end caps? They look pretty good.
-- Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
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Ha! I wish they were turned aluminum. They're just oxidized 30 year old black plastic. Ideas for "blacking" them back up? I saw something at West Marine, I think, that was supposed to bring them back.
That's a good idea. I'll look into it. Anyone else have experience putting the awl-grip over the blue decking?
Hi flyingfishguy, I sent you a private message.. I would love a copy of that vector file. BTW I like the idea of making some aluminum caps. Thanks for the idea, I think I'm going to further investigate that!
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Marc C.
Cleveland, Ohio.
Current love: Nacra 5.0
Old loves: Int Laser, Int Europe, Int 470, Int 420, Vaurien
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On the weathered black plastic end caps, just rub on some vaseline, let sit for about 5 minutes, and wipe it off. Does wonders.
How did you do the V shaped hull cradles on the trailer? I've got a G-Cat 5.0 with the deep V hulls. The trailer has rollers now that are highly degraded so I would like to replace them with something similar.
After reading this post I thought I share my experience using Poliglow,etc. Last year I bought a 83 Nacra 5.0 and a few weeks back decided it was time to make her look pretty one more time. I did want to control the cost, I spend approx $68.- on Poliglow from Defender (great service and fast shipping)and some misc stuff from West Marine for a total less then $100.-. I thought about but decided against replacing the decals even though I saw some very cool decals that some got made right on this blog. Main reason for my decision was that I noticed that the decals on my boat were sitting on a somewhat raised gelcoat layer compared to the rest of the boat so replacing decals would have become a potential nightmare if they had not exactly the same shape.
The things that I was able to do were:
-Made some necessary repairs to scratches using Marine Tex.
-Cleaned the boat with a hard scrubbing brush and lightly sanded her with 600 grid. I really did go the extra mile to make the boat look as clean as possible, I probably spend about 6 hours on this. As the instructions say, this is probably the most important part/step of the process as Poliglow will lock in any stains that show on the hulls.
-Please note that pior to my cleaning/sanding these hulls were extremely very dull already, the sanding obviously didn't help but the gelcoat color looked much better after this.
-I applied the Poliprep which at this point really did not make much of a visual difference to the boat, it was already clean. The smell of the poliprep stuff reminded me very much of Simple Green that I have used to clean the siding on my house and gutters.
- I replaced a black weathered with a white anti-slip strip that I picked up at West Marine for approx. $20.-
-I spend a little time inventing a few brackets to hang the hulls off the garage ceiling (found that a piece of oak wood with some pre-drilled holes work perfect).
- After this I did apply the Poliglow in the same fashion as I had seen on the youtube instructional video. As the instructions indicate, the first few coats get sucked up by the boat and after that it will get easier for every extra coat I put on. I think I may have gone over it about 6 times.
Results (one hull completed vs one hull to be done) shown in pictures below. For less then $100.- not too shabby in my opinion, the boat looks pretty darn good once again! Per Damon, once the boat is poliglowed, it will not stain as easy which I'm very excited about. Tomorrow I'll do the other hull and put it all together and will be ready to hit the water this upcoming weekend.
One hull done.
Difference between Poliglowed and not Poliglowed hull:
Cheers!
Marc..
Edited by FlyingDutch on Apr 30, 2012 - 10:18 PM.
-- ------------------------------------------------------------------
Marc C.
Cleveland, Ohio.
Current love: Nacra 5.0
Old loves: Int Laser, Int Europe, Int 470, Int 420, Vaurien
------------------------------------------------------------------ --
I think I have a couple of the factory Nacra decals in the modern font and in red/black.
Also, when you paint the deck they will get just a little bit more slippery, so keep that in mind. If I painted the decks again I would add some aggregate to make it non slip. Been there, done that . . .