hi, im thinking about rerigging my jib traveler trim my boat has the lance cleats but i do get how i rig it , so i thought some one might have a pic or a diagram showing both sides so i know what to connect what to,
thanks
optikid
jib traveler trim kits
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Posted: Apr 04, 2012 - 07:40 PM
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Posted: Apr 07, 2012 - 09:19 PM
bump i have the old style with lance cleats -
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Posted: Apr 08, 2012 - 03:28 PM
I believe its exactly what you see there with a shock cord to pull it back.
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Greenville SC
Offering sails and other go fast parts for A-class catamarans
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Posted: Apr 08, 2012 - 09:04 PM
i dont understand the shock cord thou where does it tie to and how much tension?
optikid -
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Posted: Apr 08, 2012 - 10:53 PM
I've set up 6 or 7 16's and they all have different cars and cleats, take a pic of what you have from the front of the boat and the top side and I'll try and help you. The bungee is attached to the traveler cars with enough tension for the car to return to center when uncleated.
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Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
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Posted: Apr 09, 2012 - 07:27 AM
You have the newer style cam cleats, the bungee/shock cord is attached car to car, with just enough tension to keep them pulled towards each other, in other words the default setting is close in to mast. When traveling broad reach or down wind, pulling on the jib car line will haul car away from mast out to side rail, almost acting like a barberhauler, you have the advantage of being able to change jib settings for each point of sail. I cant see your jib blocks but here is a pic from Tech Gallery, has the older style jib blocks with the spring loaded pin to set the blocks on the traveler
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TurboHobo
H14T
H16
P18
G-Cat 5.0
P16
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Posted: Apr 09, 2012 - 07:41 AM
After reviewing your pic, I realized you have the newer style jib cars with cam cleat, the cars are free floating, in other words they don't have the pin style setting as on older travelers, you set the car using the jib car traveler cleat, that is the 2nd smaller cleat attached to the crossbar just aft of the traveler track, really nice setup. The red line is your jib car traveler line, adjusting car in or out, the blue line is your jib line adjusting tension on jib sail, the shock cord will still attach car to car, with just enough tension to pull cars in towards each other, moving one or the other car out on the traveler track increases the tension on shock cord, releasing the jib car traveler line (red), the car will automatically return to default setting, back in towards mast.
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TurboHobo
H14T
H16
P18
G-Cat 5.0
P16
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Posted: Apr 09, 2012 - 08:19 AM
sorry if i confused any one but that was the only pic of it that i could find, i have the old style with lance cleats.
i have a couple pics but i dont know if they show enough thou...
thanks
optikid -
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Posted: Apr 09, 2012 - 11:03 AM
This is what I would do.
http://www.murrays.com/mm…e=01-3120&Category_Code=
New cars
New line and bungee
New cheek blocks
Use your old swivel cams on the beam instead of the lance cleats.
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Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
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Posted: Apr 09, 2012 - 12:23 PM
i dont plan on racing so im going to keep with i have because i have parts higher on the list then redoing the jib setup, i want to re rig it so its easier on the water to adjust.
optikid -
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Posted: Apr 09, 2012 - 12:29 PM
If you're just trying to fix what you've got, you'll need about 10' of 3/16" line per side and some 1/4" shock cord (good marine stuff or it won't last a season). It's nice to have different color lines, preferably red for port and green for starboard, for when you're telling unseasoned crew what to pull/uncleat. Tie one end of the line to the pin (with a slipknpt, right Ron?!) such that it holds the pin up where it cant engage the holes in the traveller track. Then run the line through the cheek block, then the lance cleat, then tie the bitter end off to the opposite shroud with a bowline so that it stays where you need it when you need it. Tie a piece of the shock cord to one traveller car, run it through that padeye on the front of the mast step, then tie it to the other traveller car. You need enough shock cord tension to draw the cars as far as they'll go toward the center automatically (when you release the line from the lance cleat) without so much tension that it's hard to travel out all the way on both sides. It actually work a lot better to use two cords, one for each traveller car, with one end tied to the car and the other tied to the dolphin striker bar near the opposite corner casting. This way, when jibing downwind and travelled all the way out on both sides, you're not "double-stretching" the same piece of cord.
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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16
Clinton, Mississippi
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Posted: Apr 09, 2012 - 12:51 PM
Yep, what Jerome said, slip knot. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3ZwNhlsEb4
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Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
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Posted: Apr 09, 2012 - 01:15 PM
ok thanks
so it will look kinda like this?
also when its released the bungee will pull it in wont the wind push it back out? -
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Posted: Apr 10, 2012 - 12:13 PM
Looks like you've got it! The jib sheet will be pulling away (up and forward) from the beam moreso than outboard.....it'll work. In fact it works so well that, if there's much sheet tension at all, you can't move the traveller even when you want to. The norm is to release sheet load (if any), adjust traveller, then retrim sheet.
In other words, when going from upwind to down (rounding A), you release the jib sheet first, then travel out, then adjust the sheet. When going from downwind to up (rounding C), you travel in first, then sheet in. The opposite will not work for either of these scenarios.
In other, other words, the jib (and main, actually) traveller on the Hobie 16 won't move much, if any, when it's loaded by the sheet.
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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16
Clinton, Mississippi
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