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Git rot, Diluted West sytem, System Three rot fix, CPES etc  Bottom

  • Based on reading through a number of entries on this forum. I have observed talk and use of git rot and similar stuff to deal with rotting foam mostly but also balsa cored hulls. Below is an excert from West Manual from Jamestown Distrubuters that I though makes a very good point. From what I can find either using slower hardeners and heat or System Three rot fix with give better results then Get rot. Just my two cents from a little researh. I don't have experince with any of these products under these circumstances. The thinners don't add to the strength but west and system three methods do. For that matter any epoxy with slow hardener and heat will work better then Git Rot which seems to mostly be solvents and epoxy.

    "Thinning epoxy

    There are epoxy-based products specifically designed to penetrate and reinforce rotted wood. These products, basically an epoxy thinned with solvents, do a good job of penetrating wood. But the solvents compromise the strength and moisture barrier properties of the epoxy. WEST SYSTEM epoxy can be thinned with solvents for greater penetration, but not without the same compromise in strength and moisture resistance. Acetone, toluene or MEK have been used to thin WEST SYSTEM epoxy and duplicate these penetrating epoxies with about the same effectiveness. If you chose to thin the epoxy, keep in mind that the strength and moisture protection of the epoxy are lost in proportion to the amount of solvent added.

    There is a better solution to get good penetration without losing strength or moisture resistance. We recommend moderate heating of the repair area and the epoxy with a heat gun or heat lamp. The epoxy will have a lower viscosity and penetrate more deeply when it is warmed and contacts the warmed wood cavities and pores. Although the working life of the epoxy will be considerable shortened, slower hardeners (206, 207, 209) will have a longer working life and should penetrate more than 205 Hardener before they begin to gel. When the epoxy cures it will retain all of its strength and effectiveness as a moisture barrier, which we feel more than offsets any advantages gained by adding solvents to the epoxy."

    This is an excert from West Manual from Jamestown Distrubuters. Look at bottom of page just under tips. http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/document.do?docId=347&title=West+System+User+Manual#special_preparation

    Cheers hope this helps some folks. Justin

    --
    Michigan
    P18
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