• PurdueZach
  
  

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  Posted: Apr 16, 2012 - 08:20 PM

  I posted this on the Hobie forum but I thought some of you may have even more ideas. I have been enjoying upgrading and optimizing things on my trailer setup. I thought I would show a few things that I've come up with and maybe others can chime in with some of their mods as well.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  All boxes are mounted on treated wood that is bolted to the frame with carriage bolts. I did that so that when I get down to florida, and have mast-up storage (God willing), I will be able to easily unscrew the coffin box and store it on the ground under my boat on the beach. I admit, having the tube and the coffin box is probably too much storage but it will give me more storage for moving to florida and then when I get down there I'll just unscrew it and keep it on the beach.
  
  The black box is very helpful for storing life jackets, harnesses, blocks, extra parts, etc. It helps to keep things organized.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  This is mostly for traveling. It will help keep my mpg down versus having the bike on the yakima rack on the roof. I ordered the bike fork mount on the internet for $20 shipped and then just used velcro straps to keep the spare tire down. It fits perfectly in the "groove" made by the mast crutch which should help keep it from moving.
  
  I also have my kayak stored under the boat on the trailer for transporting it but I don't have any pictures.
  
  -------------------------------------------------------------------------
  I'm in the process of building custom hull cradles for the trailer. I'll post pictures and maybe a write-up when I'm finished.
  
  Here is a quick preview:
  
  
  
  -------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Installed the new 12" tires over easter weekend. They are an upgrade from the 8" tires. They should roll over pot-holes better and also spin the hub less.
  
  Fenders were too low so I made some quick brackets to raise them. Now the fenders are kind of small for the bigger tires but I'll make do.
  
  
  
  
  12" tire on the right, 8" on left
  
  
  -------------------------------------------------------------------------
  
  And then my most recent idea. What about mounting one of these onto the trailer frame to store keys while you're out sailing?:
  
  
  
  Master Lock Wall Mount on Amazon
  
  Now you don't have to worry about losing your keys while you're out sailing!
  
  --
  -Zach
  --

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• pirateboy27
  
  

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  Posted: Apr 16, 2012 - 09:45 PM

  Lookin good Zach! In my mind you can never have too much storage. The key box is a great idea, but how 'bout one step further? I used to have an old Chevy C-10 truck with an old army-surplus strong-box bolted to the bed up against one side, in between the fender and the cab wall. It was perfect for holding my buddies high-dollar camera, phones, wallets, gf purse, keys. It locked with a hasp just like on the old style footlockers, and I used a good combo lock to secure it. We used to worry about sailing away with everyone at the boatramp knowing we'd be gone and our stuff might be easy pickens, but that changed with the strong-box. Once the lid dropped on that thing, it wasn't opening or coming off my truck without some major effort. That was years ago at a po-boy boat ramp. Now I sail from a beach called 10-mile, literally 10 miles from the rif-raf, and everyone watches out for everyone. I don't even lock my truck doors
  
  --
  Repairable P18
  --

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• klozhald
  
  

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  Posted: Apr 17, 2012 - 12:28 AM

  Hey Zach,
  Strong work with the trailer mods.
  The best trailer mod I have to offer is the hinged rear mast support. The mast never rests on the crossbar, so that weight is never on the hulls during trailering or storage. You could even make it extendable to assist with raising and lowering the mast.
  
  --
  Sheet In!
  Bob
  _/)_____/)_/)____/)____/)_____/)/)__________/)__
  Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
  Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
  AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
  (Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
  Arizona, USA
  --

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• Headhunter
  
  

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  Posted: Apr 17, 2012 - 07:39 AM

  What's the material that you're using/baking for hull cradles?

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• PurdueZach
  
  

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  Posted: Apr 17, 2012 - 08:06 AM

  klozhald

  Hey Zach,
  Strong work with the trailer mods.
  The best trailer mod I have to offer is the hinged rear mast support. The mast never rests on the crossbar, so that weight is never on the hulls during trailering or storage. You could even make it extendable to assist with raising and lowering the mast.

  
  Would you mind taking pictures and explaining how you did it? I would be interested and I'm sure others would be too.
  
  

  Headhunter

  What's the material that you're using/baking for hull cradles?

  
  Its just a large (~12") PVC pipe that we cut in thirds. My plan is to create something like my CAD drawing below. I am going to shape a rough mold of the bottom mount out of foam, fiberglass over that, then drill the hole for the pin. Then I'll sand it smooth, paint with appliance spray paint, and cover the top with marine carpet.
  
  
  --
  -Zach
  --

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• KennyB
  
  

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  Posted: Apr 17, 2012 - 09:15 AM

  I have a mold just like the pic used to make H-16 fiberglass cradles...check them out at my website (sailboxes.com)
  
  --
  Kenny Boudreaux
  2010 C2 F18 USA 323
  Goodall Design "Southern Area Rep"
  Owner of Sailboxes.com
  --

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• PurdueZach
  
  

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  Posted: Apr 17, 2012 - 09:23 AM

  KennyB

  I have a mold just like the pic used to make H-16 fiberglass cradles...check them out at my website (sailboxes.com)

  
  I admit, I am modeling my cradles after yours. I'm sure yours are much stronger and cleaner but I'm trying to save money.
  
  --
  -Zach
  --

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• halliske
  
  

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  Posted: Apr 17, 2012 - 09:30 AM

  I have some 12' pvc pipe.. How hot do you set the oven?? Does the material just sag to the shape or do you press it. How much does the divorce cost after the wife discovers the work in her oven? Thx Hal
  
  --
  Hal Liske
  Livermore CA
  H 16 (6+ 1.. Friends) H 3.2 N 5.2 (2) H 17 (2) H-18
  Nacra 5.8 (son's) H 20 (Friends)
  It's a Sickness
  
  I Need a A Cat Please
  --

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• PurdueZach
  
  

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  Posted: Apr 17, 2012 - 09:57 AM

  I set the oven at about 200ish for the first 30 minutes but bumped it up to 225 later on. It takes over an hour with thick pvc like I have. You want the pvc to become very malleable. I found that it becomes so malleable that I could fold it flat like rubber.
  
  Once the pvc is ready, you have to work quickly. It helps to plan ahead and have everything ready. It helps to have a partner. Take the pvc out of the oven and run it to the boat. From there, place the carpet inside the pvc. Next, use 3 ratchet straps to pull it up against the boat's hull. Tighten so that it is tight but not so much that you'll break the hull. Once you have the cradle positioned as you like it, throw a big bucket of water on the cradle and hull to cool it quickly. Loosen the ratchet straps and throw the cradle in another bucket of cool water. The pvc holds heat very well but after the first douse, it should hold its form.
  
  As for the divorce, I would imagine that the cost of buying cradles from sailboxes.com would be much less. I did most of this work in my apartment that was given to me for my internship this summer. We were both college students so the most we ever cooked was a frozen pizza and we weren't too concerned about the possible carcinogens in the pvc.
  
  Here are a few quick pictures of one of my cradles:
  
  
  
  
  
  I plan to put cradles on all 4 corners of my Hobie 16. If the carpet proves to have too much friction to easily pull the boat off the trailer, I'll spray it with some Liquid Rollers
  
  
  
  Edited by PurdueZach on Apr 17, 2012 - 10:11 AM.
  
  --
  -Zach
  --

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• Rider_55
  
  

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  Posted: Apr 17, 2012 - 11:10 AM

  It is also possible to soften PVC in boiling water. Think big pot (or metal 5 gallon bucket) on your BBQ grill to avoid divorce... Also speed is less critical as you can carry the part in the hot water to the boat keeping the part fully heated.

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• benedict
  
  

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  Posted: Apr 17, 2012 - 11:31 AM

  Those are beautiful cradles! I was considering making some out of fiberglass, but I like the idea of the big PVC pipe. (Now I just need to find some big PVC pipe!)
  
  Hey, speaking of curved things that hold other things, I'm also interested in the hinged mast support Bob mentioned. I had one of those on my Prindle 16. I wasn't all that keen on the hinge, though, so I'm curious to see what Bob did.
  
  But the part I'm stumped on is the part that actually supports the mast. The guy who build the trailer for my P-Cat never finished it. The upright at the front of the trailer is stout enough to hold up my Jeep. But there's no cradle for the mast. I'm fishing around for ideas of what to put up there.
  
  The hull cradles on my trailer are made from wood. I could go this route with the mast, but it's not my favorite. (I need to replace parts of the hull cradles because they're rotting.) I was considering making a mast cradle out of fiberglass, and just glassing in mounting lugs on the bottom so I could bolt it to the upright. If I can find some large PVC pipe, I might go that route instead. I think my Prindle trailer just had a steel strap bent to shape and bolted on. Any other pointers for how I could get this done?
  
  Thanks,
  
  Tom
  
  --
  Tom Benedict
  Island of Hawaii
  P-Cat 18 / Sail# 361 / HA 7633 H / "Smilodon"
  --

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• bobcatnj
  
  

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  Posted: Apr 17, 2012 - 01:17 PM

  @Tom
  
  My mast support in the front is a bow stop from a trailer bolted to 2x3 box tube and one of the old style not made anymore round plastic mast holders (mast mate maybe ?). I removed it since it was all busted up and added a standard horn cleat on one side. I have a line running from one side of the bow stop through a hole in the "v" tied off with a stopper knot over the mast and down to the cleat.
  
  Something like this one but with metal plates that extend past the top by about 2 inches.
  http://www.etrailer.com/B…ton-Lainson/DL21732.html
  
  The rear of my mast support is made up with the functional parts from my mast buddy from the front. The previous owner added a 2 foot length of pipe bolted to the rear cross member of the trailer. There is a 3.5 foot length of pipe that goes inside the larger pipe and was drilled so that it can be thru bolted while traveling.
  
  I don't have much experience with this set up but I like that the pipe on the back will prevent the car from rolling off should a strap ever let go, plus it keeps the mast off the tramp while in travel.
  
  I'd imagine you could rig up something similar for a few bucks. Let me know if you need pics.
  
  --
  Bob Miller
  1983 P16 Sail # 7312
  "Miller Time" A work in progress; out of the water for 16 years
  Barnegat Bay NJ
  Beach Cat Lesson #1 - A free cat isn't
  Find more Prindles on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/173120656090532/
  --

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• PurdueZach
  
  

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  Posted: Apr 17, 2012 - 01:45 PM

  bobcatnj

  
  The rear of my mast support is made up with the functional parts from my mast buddy from the front. The previous owner added a 2 foot length of pipe bolted to the rear cross member of the trailer. There is a 3.5 foot length of pipe that goes inside the larger pipe and was drilled so that it can be thru bolted while traveling.
  
  I don't have much experience with this set up but I like that the pipe on the back will prevent the car from rolling off should a strap ever let go, plus it keeps the mast off the tramp while in travel.
  
  I'd imagine you could rig up something similar for a few bucks. Let me know if you need pics.

  
  This setup seems pretty simple except I don't know how I would secure it to the rear cross member. I can't weld and don't have anyone near by that could weld for me. I'm wondering if something with bolts could be done.
  
  --
  -Zach
  --

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• PurdueZach
  
  

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  Posted: Apr 17, 2012 - 01:53 PM

  I just got back from the Indiana BMV and I finally have the trailer titled and registered! It only took me 9 months to do it. It got complicated because I bought the boat in Georgia, took it to Florida, then moved back to Indiana. The BMV didn't like this
  
  --
  -Zach
  --

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• KennyB
  
  

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  Posted: Apr 17, 2012 - 06:05 PM

  Hey Zach...I bought my Hobie Tiger from Melborne, FL, the guys name was Jim Rathmann Jr., His dad won the Indy 500 in 1960, and I guess his fame allowed him to open the Chevrolet dealership there...such a small world sometimes ;p . I've got 2 tiller extensions, one alum and one fiberglass...make me agood offer and you pay actual shipping.
  
  --
  Kenny Boudreaux
  2010 C2 F18 USA 323
  Goodall Design "Southern Area Rep"
  Owner of Sailboxes.com
  --

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• bobcatnj
  
  

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  Posted: Apr 17, 2012 - 06:19 PM

  Zach,
  
  my rear crossmember has 2 holes already centered in it, the guy added the pipe and drilled 2 holes to match. He used really long bolts to secure it. I guess you could also use U boles and a backer
  
  --
  Bob Miller
  1983 P16 Sail # 7312
  "Miller Time" A work in progress; out of the water for 16 years
  Barnegat Bay NJ
  Beach Cat Lesson #1 - A free cat isn't
  Find more Prindles on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/173120656090532/
  --

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• halliske
  
  

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  Posted: Apr 17, 2012 - 06:30 PM

  Hy Guys.. Back to the hull supports for a bit. I know all you all love to talk like OLDE BOYS but. Is there a concern about getting the cradles too form fitting for the hulls. Seems to me that the glass on the sides of the hull are not made to support the weight of the boat.. Just the pressure from the water.. ( I used a friends HObie beach wheels and noticed a problem when they were too narrow for my 5.2N. The hulls did deflect..)I thought that the advantage of cradles was to increase the area of contact on the keels, not the whole hull. Seems like making the cradles longer to distribute the weight would be better.. Also, seems like loading would be tough with contact on too much of the sides of the hulls. I am making some cradles out of the same stuff. I want to bend the sides to guide the hulls in but not to touch and cause drag when loading and to center the hulls in case of (God forbid) the tie downs were loose and the hulls were moving a bit from side to side.
  Allready checked with the ceo and it is OK to use the oven to 250 degrees for short periods of time as lond as we are not having Pizza. can't risk that..
  
  --
  Hal Liske
  Livermore CA
  H 16 (6+ 1.. Friends) H 3.2 N 5.2 (2) H 17 (2) H-18
  Nacra 5.8 (son's) H 20 (Friends)
  It's a Sickness
  
  I Need a A Cat Please
  --

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• Quarath
  
  

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  Posted: Apr 17, 2012 - 10:21 PM

  Some cradle are made for specific boat hulls but other are more generic and usually bigger. Ill have to to take a pic of what I rigged on my beach wheels they work good for any type of cat hull.
  
  --
  Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
  Member: Utah Sailing Association
  1982 Prindle 18
  1986 Hobie 17
  1982 Prindle 16
  1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
  1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
  Check out "Prindle Sailors" on Facebook.
  --

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• erice
  
  

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  Posted: Apr 18, 2012 - 01:07 AM

  12" or 300mm pipe sections cut in half fit 5.2 hulls perfectly, without the need for any heating or bending
  
  i used angle cut wooden blocks to hold the pipe sections, with counter sunk screws coming down from the pipe
  
  to spread load for the 5.2 use longer pipe sections for the front cradles as that's where 80% of the weight is
  
  the back cradles carry hardly any weight

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• lonbordin
  
  

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  Posted: Apr 18, 2012 - 07:10 AM

  I went with popeyez7's suggestion in this thread. I liked the idea of spreading the weight out over a much larger area.
  After doing it I really like it!!! So simple too. Thanks popeyez7.
  Got a picture:
  
  
  http://www.thebeachcats.com/forums/viewtopic/topic/13034
  
  
  
  Edited by lonbordin on Apr 18, 2012 - 07:52 PM.
  
  --
  LIVE LIFE... Dave Wilcox
  Trac 18
  Bloomington, IN
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