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Mark
Prindle 16 and Laguna 18DS
Ripon, WI
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Need help on how to repair crack/split between deck and hull on P16
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- Rank: Lubber
- Registered: Jun 17, 2011
- Last visit: Jul 04, 2012
- Posts: 26
Posted: Jul 02, 2012 - 02:15 PM
While performing an injection deck repair I noted a 3 foot crack and separation of the deck from the hull on the outside of the left hull in the section were the tramp is. I can push in the side of the hull about a centimeter where it meets the deck. What are my options for repair?
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Mark
Prindle 16 and Laguna 18DS
Ripon, WI
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- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Apr 24, 2005
- Last visit: Apr 18, 2023
- Posts: 709
Posted: Jul 03, 2012 - 05:01 PM
Sounds like you are going to get familiar with fiberglass repair.... It really isn't that hard, just takes time and patience. I am currently using the West System Epoxy and it works great. The metering pumps makes getting the right ratio of hardener and epoxy very simple. I am using the slow hardener and do one coat each night after work. I have a 12-18" crack between deck and hull at the rear crossbar of my H18 (complete seperate and could move the hull similar to you). It is where the hull comes up and meets the lip. I don't know the P16 to well, but presume it has the same old school 2 piece hull like a H16 and H18, where the deck was epoxied to the hull will a curled lip where the two connect.
What I do is run 2" wide cloth on the outside and then a combination of 2" and 4" cloth on the inside. I think I did a total of 5 layers on the outside and plan to do similar on the inside. Make sure you go a couple inches past the end of the crack. The first layer is the most important, make sure you sand the surface extremely well to make sure that first layer sticks. Then after each coat you need to sand and clean with laquer thinner. I feather out the layers of cloth to give it strength.
I also cut a hole to add a Viking port in the deck to allow access to the inside. Working through the openning is tough, but not many other options. One piece of advise is find a farm/ranch supply store and get cow obstetrics disposable gloves. They are shoulder length plastic gloves that helps keep epoxy off your arm while working in the hull. I cut the finger tips off those gloves and then put my nitrile gloves over them so I still have decent touch, since that is all I have when sticking my arm in the port hole.
Also remember a resporator while sanding, don't want that stuff in your lungs. It sounds like a lot of work, but really isn't to bad, just time consuming. I have now done about 4 of these repairs on my H18M since it is a weak point, especially with the leverage of the wings.
Good luck.
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Scott,
‘92 H18 w/SX wings
‘95 Hobie Funseeker 12 (Holder 12)
‘96/‘01/‘14 Hobie Waves
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- Rank: Mate
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- Last visit: Feb 19, 2021
- Posts: 879
Posted: Jul 03, 2012 - 08:00 PM
Scott's repair sounds a little too much work for me. I would simply turn hull upside down, put screw drivers between deck & hull, mix epoxy with a little 404 filler to have it run less easily, then run rachet straps every 6" & tighten. We did this with a P-16 in Vegas & he now sails Lake Mohave with it (very strong winds.). Use a bent hack saw blade to spread epoxy slurry in the crack. Prindle Pete
Edited by pbegle on Jul 03, 2012 - 08:00 PM. -
- Rank: Lubber
- Registered: Jun 17, 2011
- Last visit: Jul 04, 2012
- Posts: 26
Posted: Jul 04, 2012 - 10:36 AM
Could you explain the use of the screw drivers? Is is to allow epoxy into the hull and do you take them out before strapping them down?
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Mark
Prindle 16 and Laguna 18DS
Ripon, WI
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- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Mar 12, 2003
- Last visit: Feb 19, 2021
- Posts: 879
Posted: Jul 04, 2012 - 12:19 PM
Yes,, screwdrivers just open crack to get epoxy in, then pull them out. After we took straps off we did a second treatment to fill all voids on crack as well as run a bead all along hull/deck seal to assure no leakage. Easy to do when boat is upside down.. Prindle Pete
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