I bought one on ebay for the bow, for much less than what they were wanting by using the "offer" choice ($30). I got it and an $7 T from Lowes made the base.
About quick pins on standing rigging: I'll do a little research and see if the ft/lb value of the shearing strength of the hollow stainless quick pin exceeds, or is less than, the tensile strength of the forestay cable. No argument that it is less than a solid 1/4 steel pin, but how much less? And, are those ft/lb load limits reached on a forestay during sailing operations? And how much margin is there, exactly? These quantities should be easy to figure out.
HOTTIES LOVE OLDE FAT GUYES.. USEUALLY CUZ THEY KNOW HOW TO DO "CPR" WHEN THE GUYS CODE BLUE BUT THEY ARE NOT THAT GOOD , having practiced on other parts. .. and they are in the will.. Bill what about a new envention.. A set of beach wheels that has tracks like a tank (Like U) and a small Clinten lawn mower mooter. Crank that babeie up and all the hotties on the beach will be there!! You bee packen their make up kits and kegs for a nice day on the blue and not loose a LB.. Think how that would sell at the dealership with an indoursemetn for you !! Perhaps a personal apperance.. Sign autographes or do small Tats in privet places. Just Sayen.. Hal
-- Hal Liske
Livermore CA
H 16 (6+ 1.. Friends) H 3.2 N 5.2 (2) H 17 (2) H-18
Nacra 5.8 (son's) H 20 (Friends)
It's a Sickness
I took some pictures if you will send me your email address I will send them. I am not good at postinjg pictures on the forums, the classified ads are easy to post pictures.
I had mentioned earlier in this thread that I use rudder trailering blocks while trailering Prindles. I put some pictures of them on the classified ads. Mainly because I could not add pictures to the album section (it's just me, I am not good at that stuff although I did try for some time), and also if someone does not want to make there own I would knock out a few sets.
I could not find the blocks in the classifieds so I sent you a message with my email. Send the pics to me and I will post them to my album and then put them in a post here.
-- Mike Brady
Sugar Land, TX
Sailing off Magnolia Beach in Lavaca Bay TX
http://358degrees.blogspot.com/
P16 "Pooh Cat" --
In reply (yurdle), I find ring-dings too slow and difficult to get on and off. The only task I have for a helper is to hold the safety/belay line tied to the mainsheet halyard when stepping the mast. Except for the forestay, the remainder of my stays and trap wires remain connected all the time.
You can cut them from a 2X6 or 2X8. You can loosen the rudder pivot bolt and slide a thin piece of carboard in the casting and trace for a pattern. Cut and sand for a good fit.
You might find that disconnecting a trap line (from the return shock cord) and using that to hold the mast up, instead of a halyard, more secure.
In reply (yurdle), I find ring-dings too slow and difficult to get on and off. The only task I have for a helper is to hold the safety/belay line tied to the mainsheet halyard when stepping the mast. Except for the forestay, the remainder of my stays and trap wires remain connected all the time.
Probably the biggest time-saver is towing the boat stern-first. This allows the side shrouds and trap lines to be permanently connected. Just slide the mast toward the tow vehicle and pin the ball in place, and your assistant with the belay line is not encumbered by the tow vehicle either. This way, there's only one connection left- the forestay. I use a weighted line off the bow to pull that forestay forward as the mast goes up - it's waiting for me when I get there to be connected.
For a while now, I have taken notes on things that could be improved while rigging and de-rigging, with an eye to where I could eliminate ring dings, needing three hands to hold the parts and tighten the shackle, retrieving pieces out of the small parts box, or tying knots.
Tip o' the hat credit goes to havlii for the stern-first idea. An out-of-the-box thinker, he's taught me 'most all I know.
Probably the biggest time-saver is towing the boat stern-first. This allows the side shrouds and trap lines to be permanently connected. Just slide the mast toward the tow vehicle and pin the ball in place
I must be missing something here, I tow with bows forward and I leave everything connected other then the forestay. In fact, if my sterns were forward the tow vehicle would be in the way when the mast was slid into position before raising...
if my sterns were forward the tow vehicle would be in the way when the mast was slid into position before raising...
you leave the mast in the trailer yoke as you slide it back into position and attach it to the mast ball. Once pinned, it is now sitting at an angle and you can simply walk to your rear beam, get in position and lift.
i back my car/trailer until my trailer starts to go down the beach tide line. This slants my trailer 10-15 more degrees and makes lifting (stepping) even easier.
the only (minor) issue with that is... once my mast is up. i will possibly end up with wet feet as i secure my mast forestay... i can handle that.