Hello all,
This is my first post on this site. I've been interested in sailing catamarans for over 10 years and finally pull the trigger. I think it's a 1987 Nacra 5.8. I say I think, because i'm not sure of the year?
The last numbers on the right hull, etched in are E 87.
Anyway, I have no idea to to rig this thing. I am trying to get familiar with the terminology and it does have a manual (not a lot of help). I've search this forum and downloaded 2 tuning guides and articles from 1994, but none help explain how to set up the lines/rigging/trapezes?
Any help?
Thanks
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William
Nacra 5.8 (SpiderGorilla/SpiderMonkey)
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Need Help Rigging! First Cat 1987 Nacra 5.8
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Posted: Aug 06, 2012 - 10:15 AM
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Posted: Aug 06, 2012 - 04:31 PM
welcome
if you have the manual and 2 tuning guides already it's very hard to add anything useful without knowing exactly which parts you are having difficulty with
sounds as if it would be best to either find a sailor locally to help you or get a basic sailing guide from a library or book shop
as a very basic start you need to get everything attached to the mast correctly before you raise it
stays - 3 thick wire cables that hold up the mast
halyards - 2 ropes/wires that pull up the 2 sails
trapeze wires - 4 thinner wire ropes with handles, 2 per side
hobie generally make great beginner guides
http://www.cg.cfpsa.ca/cg…obie_rigging_basics.pdf
Edited by erice on Aug 06, 2012 - 04:34 PM. -
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Posted: Aug 06, 2012 - 06:51 PM
http://www.nacrasailing.com/index.php?option=com_phocadownload&view=category&id=1:manuals&download=23:nacra-vintage-assembly-manual.pdf&Itemid=91 -
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Posted: Aug 06, 2012 - 06:53 PM
Nacrasailing.com has a vintage assembly manual for the 5.8 in pdf. -
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Posted: Aug 06, 2012 - 10:10 PM
hi,
here are some photos of an '87 5.8 i restored and sold last year. get to the largest version of each photo to see the detail. if you need specific photos of how the support wires (shrouds on the sides, forestay in front) are attached at the top, let me know and i can send you more pics. i've owned several 5.8's so i've probably got a photo for anything you need.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/64069794@N03/sets/72157628025362618/
j
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Aquacat 12 (sold)...'87 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'03 Nacra Inter18 (sold)
Venture 15 (sold)....'89 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'91 Nacra 5.8NA (sold)
'99 Nacra Inter20 (sold)
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Posted: Aug 07, 2012 - 05:28 AM
If you are looking for help, it truly helps, if you let people know where you are located. -
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Posted: Aug 07, 2012 - 08:14 AM
Thanks all! I was able to contact a 5.8 sailor in my area. I re-reviewed the manuals and they are starting to make a little more sense. I am still a little uncertain on 2 items.
1.) The "anti mast spinning set up"
2.) How to make sure both the Jib and Main sheet are secure once raised.
Do most people name their beachcats?
I am planning on doing a dry land set up to make sure I can set up at the lake.
I am located about 40 min North of Phill, PA. Most likely , i'll be sailing in the Deleware Bay once I get things in working order. Has anyone sailed from Cape May to Deleware across the bay.
Is it true that a 5.8 can maintaing 30 knots with the right weighting, tuning and conditions?
Thanks again!!!
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William
Nacra 5.8 (SpiderGorilla/SpiderMonkey)
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Posted: Aug 07, 2012 - 09:36 AM
dicedcpa,
in questions 1) you're referring to the mast rotator which can be used to induce or reduce rotation, depending on who you talk to.
question 2) the main sail should hook onto the mast when it's fully raised. you should have a round steel ring on the end of your halyard to pull the sail up. this ring attaches to the head of the main sail. when hooked at the top of the mast, there should be no tension on the rope halyard and you can just tuck it into the bag on your tramp.
the jib halyard should come down the mast, loop around a couple of 'cheek blocks' attached to the mast and then lock into a clam cleat so it doesn't pull out. if you don't have the proper cleats near the base of the mast, you should add them. some people pull the jib halyard back down thru the jib zipper pocket and attach it at the base of the forestay. it's harder to adjust the jib tension when on the water but that works also.
as far as speed goes, i think you've been fed a line if someone said these would do 30 knots. you would have to be out in 30 knots of wind to do that, which would be near suicide, IMHO. i just recorded 21 mph when it was gusting to 25mph. i had myself on the helm and two people (a total of 340lbs) on two trapeze. with flat water, we could have done more, but not that much. trust me, 20mph is a blast! next stop is hardware failure.
j
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Aquacat 12 (sold)...'87 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'03 Nacra Inter18 (sold)
Venture 15 (sold)....'89 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'91 Nacra 5.8NA (sold)
'99 Nacra Inter20 (sold)
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Posted: Aug 07, 2012 - 10:51 AM
Another quick question, I understand that the shock cord that runs trhough the tramp is for the rear skipper's trapeze. For some reason there is a small pully in the middle of the shock cord, any idea what this is for? Also, does this shock cord run under or over the tramp?
I think, the mast rotator, that metal thin bar that looks like a narrow horseshoe... I don't really know what to do with that.
Edited by dicedcpa on Aug 07, 2012 - 11:58 AM.
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William
Nacra 5.8 (SpiderGorilla/SpiderMonkey)
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Posted: Aug 07, 2012 - 09:59 PM
d,
the shock cord should definitely run under the tramp. it's possible that the small 'pulley' (block) was attached to center of the front or rear beam, underneath the tramp. this would give you more shock cord to stretch out when you're on the trap than if it went straight across from side to side. on my boat, i installed a small block to the inside of each hull, directly below the grommet in the tramp where the shock cord runs thru. then i have the shock cord run from starboard, across to port, back to starboard and then out on the port grommet (all under the tramp) to give me more stretch.
the rotator should be bolted thru the mast base with a stainless steel bolt/nut. keep it horizontal by tying a light line from the end of the rotator up to the diamond wire tang on the side of the mast. as far as the rotator goes, most people face it forward and use it to put MORE twist (rotation) into the mast when going downwind. this is done with cleats on the front beam aside the mast and over about 18" or so toward the hulls. do a search on this site for 'rotator' or go thru the photo albums at the top of the page (catamaran technical tips) to see some photos.
if you had a main sail boom, the rotator would point backwards and work with the boom to REDUCE rotation going upwind, but you don't have a boom so that's a moot point.
there are different opinions here, but with my boomless main sail, i find that i need to reduce the mast rotation when going upwind. reducing the curved shape of the main improves my speed when the wind picks up by moving the maximum draft (pocket) of the sail backwards and not right behind the mast. this follows the theory of having your sail 'flatter' in super-light and heavy wind ("the harder it blows, the flatter it goes") but having a bigger curve in medium winds. but as i said, some would disagree with me putting the rotator to the rear.
don't worry too much about the rotator until you've sailed the 5.8 and have a feel for it. you can't go wrong by not using it at the beginning.
here's a great video on a 5.8:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EiqCrPrhyTM
j
Edited by arch on Aug 07, 2012 - 10:21 PM.
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Aquacat 12 (sold)...'87 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'03 Nacra Inter18 (sold)
Venture 15 (sold)....'89 Nacra 5.8 (sold)...'91 Nacra 5.8NA (sold)
'99 Nacra Inter20 (sold)
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Posted: Aug 08, 2012 - 11:45 AM
All great information to know, I'll start without using the mast rotator feature until I get some "sea legs".
Does it matter what type of line to use for lacing the back of the tramp to the rear beam? Does 50lb rope from Lowes work? What about paracord? Although I think paracord stretches.
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William
Nacra 5.8 (SpiderGorilla/SpiderMonkey)
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Posted: Aug 08, 2012 - 12:11 PM
dicedcpa: It sounds like you're in a little over your head. You really need to understand that the N5.8 is a VERY powerful boat (not a beginner boat by any means). Please try to get yourself an experienced teacher. If nothing else, only go out in very mild conditions, and don't go too far until you've got a lot more experience (conditions can change quickly). Don't mean to be negative...just want you to have a good, safe experience so you will stick with it! Good luck, man!
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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16
Clinton, Mississippi
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Posted: Aug 08, 2012 - 12:43 PM
Ohh Boy! The only experience teacher i've got is my sweet ole self. I am a bit of a risk taker, but agree safety first. I even just ordered a life jacket! Anyone want to volunteer to teach me to sail this weekend at Peace Valley Park, PA?
If I am singlehandling this beast of a boat, should I just start with the main sail, sail jibless? I'll be flying a hull in no time, ha!
If I can tie a bowline, i'm good to go right! ha! Hard-a-lee!
I know I have a substantial learning curve to overcome, i've learned so much in the past 3 days. Thanks for all your guys/ladies help! I really do appreciate it, even the criticism. :)
Edited by dicedcpa on Aug 08, 2012 - 04:06 PM.
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William
Nacra 5.8 (SpiderGorilla/SpiderMonkey)
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Posted: Aug 08, 2012 - 01:00 PM
Use 1/4" dacron for lacing the tramp. You want it tight, and you will tighten it again later when the tramp moves back into place and your wet line stretches a bit. Paracord is a little thin, and the #50 stuff from Lowe's is not a good choice. You want low stretch, UV resistant line that you can pull very tight.
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Sheet In!
Bob
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Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
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Posted: Aug 08, 2012 - 01:41 PM
Since I want to give this boat it's maiden voyage this weekend. Oh yea, she now has a name (1 hull is called SpiderMonkey and the other called SpiderGorilla) don't ask... I've not even sure if it's proper to name each hull differently, but I guess I can be the first. So the 50 lb rope doesn't seem that safe, so I ordered this from Amazon until I can buy the 1/4" dacron from a marine store, unless you know of a place on Amazon prime that I can get it by the weekend?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005TLUXFC/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00
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William
Nacra 5.8 (SpiderGorilla/SpiderMonkey)
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Posted: Aug 08, 2012 - 01:50 PM
This may be a better option... seems this Polypropylene stretches less than nylon.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002QVUROU/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00
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William
Nacra 5.8 (SpiderGorilla/SpiderMonkey)
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Posted: Aug 08, 2012 - 03:11 PM
Another Question: Does the line that controls the traveler on the rear beam need to be a certain type? Also, I see where the line ties to the eyelit, but once threaded and though the clam cleat, does it tie to anything? Stopper knot?
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William
Nacra 5.8 (SpiderGorilla/SpiderMonkey)
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Posted: Aug 08, 2012 - 03:42 PM
Sorry guys, another couple questions that came to mind. I was digging though the misc items bag that came with the boat and there 2 small orange bags (opening is about 4" in diameter and about 8-10" in length). Any idea what these are used for?
Second question, does the bushing/washers that connects the rudder to the stern go on top / bottom or both sides of the connection point? In other words, how much play(movement) should the rudder connection have via the rudder pins. 1/2" or less??
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William
Nacra 5.8 (SpiderGorilla/SpiderMonkey)
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Posted: Aug 08, 2012 - 04:22 PM
Did the bags look like the ones here?
http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=74570
Those are "port bags" and designed to hang inside the round deck ports. Handy storage, but not dry storage since it gets kind of damp inside the hulls from condensation even if they are well sealed.
The rudder casting shouldn't have any slop against the rudder pins if that's what you mean. Pictures of your items would help.
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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN
How To Create Your Signature
How To Create Your Own Cool Avatar
How To Display Pictures In The Forums.
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Posted: Aug 08, 2012 - 04:30 PM
At the least, New England Sta Set, 5/16 or 3/8. From the "eyelit" through the traveler car, through the eye then cleat. Then a stopper knot so the car won't hit the end of the track, then tie it to the end of your main sheet.
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Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
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