Need Help Rigging! First Cat 1987 Nacra 5.8
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Posted: Aug 08, 2012 - 06:02 PM
Yes. It is usually 5/16" dacron. DO NOT skimp here. Use something like Sta-Set yacht braid. If you use cheap line it will break, you will be out of control and someone could be badly hurt. There is a lot of stress in the traveler line- especially when you gybe.
Sometimes the other end of the main sheet is used to thread through the rear cleat, then through the traveler car and then a stopper knot at the eyelet on the rear beam. But thick mainsheet lines, like 7/16", don't feed through the traveler car smoothly, so we use the 5/16" line (as above) tied to the mainsheet and threaded through as I just detailed.
This is hard to communicate in words, so look for pictures of traveler lines here in The Beach Cats and see if you can find the NACRA manual for help as well.
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Sheet In!
Bob
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Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
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AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
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Posted: Aug 09, 2012 - 12:04 PM
DamonLinkous - Yes! Those orange bags are exactly them! Thanks, I thought it was an on board urinal for a minute.
Where is the best place online to buy Dacron line ? All places I see sell 600' spools for $300+
Sat Morning I am going to give it a try, pending I get her set up properly.
For the first time out I am not going to use the trapeze or the mast rotator function.
Any other suggestions? Forecast calls for 6-7 mile winds, so might just be enough to putz around the lake to get familiar with the boat. Should I sail jibless if it's just me and my first time out?
Thanks
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William
Nacra 5.8 (SpiderGorilla/SpiderMonkey)
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Posted: Aug 09, 2012 - 02:47 PM
http://www.apsltd.com/c-1485-line.aspx
http://www.westmarine.com…tegories1_11151_10001_-1
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Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
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Posted: Aug 13, 2012 - 06:34 AM
I just want to thank all of your for the help the past week. Without your comments and assistance I wouldn't have been able to obtain one of my life long dreams. Sailling my own catamaran! I was able to do a practice dry land set up Sat, and Sunday I took it out on the water.
I'm sure some of you will snicker with what I am about to say next but i rather be safe than sorry. Remember my catamaran experience is only 1 sail (about 2 hours) ten years ago on a Hobie Wave. Other than that,I I knew very little. I sailed 1 summer on MC Scows, and Day Sailors on the lakes surrounding Minneapolis to learn points of sail.
Since it was just me, on my untested Nacra 5.8, I sailed with just the jib. There was no beach to get set up to help keep me head to wind. I thought I would be able to raise the main while out on the water, but with no once controling the boat this would prove very difficult. Wind speeds were a bit higher than I expected (~15 mph) Someone was right that this is a very fast boat!!! With only the jib I was keeping up with a Hobie 16 flying a hull. I can't imagine if I had the main sail up how fast/dangerous this thing could have been.
All in all, the first sail was a success other than I lost my walkie talkie (2-way radio) at the dock as well as a quick pin I was trying to use as a substitute to pin the tack of the jib (ended up just tieing a square knot with a piece of line.
A few comments I have to make, my thumbs are in pain. Un pinning and pining again the rig multiple times in a weekend pretty much ripped my thumbnails off (litterially blood was drawn). Where in the world can I find quick pins for the side stays and everywhere else? I have one for the forestay ! A blessing!
P.s. The boat floats! 4 hours on the water and not a drop in the hulls!
Thanks again all!!
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William
Nacra 5.8 (SpiderGorilla/SpiderMonkey)
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Posted: Aug 13, 2012 - 06:45 AM
excellent idea to build up slowly on a cat that powerful
presumably the 5.8 is as well balanced without the jib as the 5.2
so maybe your next solo sail could be main without jib?
if the wind picks up be prepared to release the traveller when tacking to prevent going into irons
and read up on backing out of irons by releasing the main and traveller and then pushing boom AND rudders in the direction you want to sail -
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Posted: Aug 13, 2012 - 07:18 AM
Quick pins should NOT be used on standing rigging. Use them on the tack and clew of the sail, main sheet blocks and any where else but not the shrouds or fore stay.
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Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
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Posted: Aug 13, 2012 - 10:38 AM
As far as sailing from DE to Cape May. It can certainly be done, but I would practice a bit more. You have the open Atlantic on one side of you and you have to worry about a fair amount of traffic in that area. Ferries, large motorboats and of course - freighters.
All the usual safety requirements apply to a sail like this
I am on the DE bay about 15 miles N of Lewes, DE and I RARELY get the urge to make the passage, as we can spend our days up and down the west side of the bay without having to mess with the freighters.
You have a performance boat, and it would be wise to take this season to get used to it.
Happy to sail with you if you wish, just send me a PM
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Supercat 15
Windrider 17
Several Sunfish and Sunfish clones
Ratboat built from Zuma and Sunfish parts
Shallow water sailor in the Delaware Bay
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Posted: Aug 13, 2012 - 10:43 AM
I guess my fingers just need to get tougher or I can use a little pocket knoife to help..
Next time, I am going to find some shorline so I can put up the main and give that a try with no jib. Most likely this Sunday! Taking a look at some you tube videos tacking with the main is a bit more cumbersome, have to pass the tiller arm around the main sheet...
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William
Nacra 5.8 (SpiderGorilla/SpiderMonkey)
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Posted: Aug 13, 2012 - 11:02 AM
Glad you got out and back in one piece for your first voyage!
You mention "Un pinning and pining again the rig multiple times in a weekend", what all were you taking apart? Maybe your technique can be improved for less work. What is tearing up your thumbnails (ouch!). If it's trouble with the ring-dings on clevis pins then you can get a simple tool (Hobie Tool) that you can use to avoid using your fingernails to separate the rings.
Also, in areas that are not holding the mast upright you can use this type cotter ring which has an open end to make it easier to start.
http://www.westmarine.com…ssNum=50056#.UCkwZZ1lTQM
On standing rigging you should stay with the closed end type.
http://www.westmarine.com…ssNum=50056#.UCkwXJ1lTQM
And then tape them in place to avoid anything snagging them an pulling them out. (see Dismasted! threads).
And for thngs like attaching the boom to mast, main to boom, and tiller extension to tiller cross bar there are the quick release pins.
http://www.westmarine.com…ssNum=50056#.UCkwjp1lTwo
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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN
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Posted: Aug 13, 2012 - 12:16 PM
Like Damon said it is all technique and gets better over time. Quickpins are great time savers for somethings but just not a good idea for the rigging that holds the mast up. Not only are they hollow and weaker but it only take one well meaning person to pull one out at the wrong time to have a huge problem on your hands.
Most often you will only have to remove the pins on the shrouds a few times a year. Once you you get it all situated the rigging can stay attached pretty much all season except for the forestay. This also includes trailering. Rigging can be coiled and tied to the hiking straps for trailiering.
A small needle nose pliers works well for suborn ring dings. I always have some in my boat gearbox and usually small key chain size leatherman like tool with needle nose in my pocket. You can get good ones cheap at autozone for under $5
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Dustin Finlinson • Magna, UT
Member: Utah Sailing Association
1982 Prindle 18
1986 Hobie 17
1982 Prindle 16
1980 Prindle 16(mostly)
1976 Prindle 16(mostly)
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