I just redrilled my rudders and replaced the cams, spring, screw, and plunger, bu on the left rudder the cam spring is screwed in all the way but the cam is very lose and i can easy lock it and unlock it with my fingers. when i lock it down it unlocked easy and when i lift up the upper casting the cam is down for about 10 seconds then it pops up by its self. i will try to get a video if needed.
o.k.
Hobie 16 rudder help.
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Posted: Sep 10, 2012 - 07:05 PM
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Posted: Sep 11, 2012 - 05:34 AM
One way to try and make it work better would be to put a type of spacer between the tension screw and the spring to increase the tension on the cam. Something just a little smaller in diameter than the tension screw and maybe half the length to start with, and go from there. -
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Posted: Sep 11, 2012 - 06:01 PM
yeah i was thinking about that.. also is there any way i can get a metal screw instead of a plastic screw?
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Posted: Sep 12, 2012 - 05:53 AM
If you put dissimilar metal together you will have a big problem, and when I was talking about a spacer it should also be delrin, plastic or something similar -
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Posted: Sep 12, 2012 - 06:57 PM
i have a plastic spacer, but can i use a aluminum screw, so it dosent strip when i try to take it out next time? -
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Posted: Sep 13, 2012 - 09:07 AM
The Delrin screw accessed from the bottom of the casting, sets the tension on the spring, as I remember, you dropped in the plunger, then the spring then you screwed in the Delrin tension adjuster. If there is not enough tension set on the plunger, ie, the cam is very loose, take everything apart and compare old spring with new spring, if you just replaced everything you should have good tension on the plunger. Also check to see that the threads for the Delrin screw are good, clean with break cleaner, lubricate with silicone grease, re-install and check tension on plunger. If tension is still bad, put your old spring back in and see if that will help. If you want to use new parts, do as Hullflyer suggests, obtain several nylon washers same diameter as Delrin screw, drop plunger in, follow with spring, set nylon spacers on top of spring, then screw in the Delrin screw.
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TurboHobo
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Posted: Sep 13, 2012 - 10:16 AM
Good advice above, I ran into issues with my system this summer and everything above is true.
I did however buy and modify stainless steel set screws to replace the delrin screws. The corrosion and bonding happens with a catalyst, in this case salt water is a catalyst, which you probably often sail in down in Florida. So what I did won't work for you. My boat will never see salt water so between that and some anti-seize compound I decided to give it a try, cheaper stronger, and I had the part the same day (the day right before a regatta), versus waiting for parts to come in from the dealer. I did flatten the bottom face and drill a thru hole for drainage, just like the delrin screw. Works fine and just adjusted Tuesday.
I think that a aluminum .75-10 set screw will be pretty rare and hard to find. If you did find some, I would still use anti-seize.
I wouldn't rule out using another set of Delrin screws, just consider how old your boat is, whoever had it before you (and probably before that) likely didn't know what a lot of us know now via the forums and what not, they probably didn't know that there was adjustment back there. And think about how long it took for those screws to get stuck to the castings. Now that you know better you can keep a eye out and use grease, anti seize or something to keep it from happening again 20-30 years down the road.
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Cesar (Cez) S.
Hobie 16 (had a few)
Nacra 5.2 "Hull Yeah"
Vectorworks XJ - A class (not named yet)
West Michigan (Grand Rapids/Holland Area)
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Posted: Sep 13, 2012 - 02:40 PM
i put a new screw, spring, plunger and cam in when i got the boat (march 2012) and had a hard time getting the screw out yesterday. i put a spacer in and it has the tension i think it needs, its not on the boat so i have to wait for the weekend it test it. -
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Posted: Sep 14, 2012 - 09:42 AM
The quickest way to damage the Delrin screw is to use an undersized flat screwdriver, spend the money on the correct size. Sometimes the thread gets either damaged or caked with dirt, preventing the "cam tensioner" from screwing all the way down, effectively compressing the spring to give you the neccessary tension, clean out the threads with Break Cleaner, check to see if threads are still good, if they are damaged you will see it on the new Delrin Screw, the threading will be mashed. If the threads are slightly damaged you will have to find a Grade 8, 3/4 x 6" bolt with the same thread and screw it in to "renew" the thread, use lots of lubricant. If the threads are badly damaged you will have to "re-tap" new thread.......
check this out:-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUUA7l6fzIk
HTH
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TurboHobo
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Posted: Mar 12, 2013 - 07:34 PM
i need to redrill one rudder, one problem i had last time was getting the epoxy in the holes. whats the best way to do it? -
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Posted: Mar 13, 2013 - 06:20 AM
What a Hobie dealer in Ft Lauderdale (Nautical Ventures) taught me was to use a portion of the old nylon rudder pin to fill the existing hole, it fit perfect real tight. Cut off flush and redrill. Worked like a charm for me. That is about the only good use of a nylon rudder pin. -
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Posted: Mar 13, 2013 - 08:31 AM
i dont have a nylon pin. but the hole i have to drill is going to overlap the other hole so you can drill the pin?
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Posted: Mar 13, 2013 - 10:21 AM
Yes you can drill the pin and it will stay in place. Then when you put the bolt in it will remain in place.
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