We just purchased a G-Cat 5.0 that is going to require some work before she sails. From what I have read she sounds like a lot of fun. I have never seen one of these boats before so I need as much reference as I can find.
I have some questions -
1) Does anyone have a rigging diagram of this boat that is high enough resolution to print?
2) The rudder assembly is really trashed and will require a complete rebuild. The starboard bracket is all broken up at the top, there is no tiller and hiking stick assembly, and both rudders had the metal plates that pull the rudders up ripped out. Does anyone have a full rudder assembly for a G Cat 5.0 for sale or know where I can get one?
3) The mast base was also destroyed, it is currently just a piece of broken Aluminum with a hole in it. Does anyone have one of these for sale?
4) Why is there a long point in the pictures I see of the mast base, is it for a boom vang?
4) The deck joints on both hulls need to be reset. I was going to squirt 3M 5200 up into the seams, will that suffice?
On a positive note, the hulls are in excellent shape. There is a little bit of a soft area on each of the pontoons, but those should easily fill in with injected epoxy and neither of the soft spots are in particularly nasty places. The trampolines and standing rigging are in good shape (other than the mast base) and it appears that all of the running rigging is there. The sails are in decent shape and should be good for a couple more seasons at least.
Thanks for your time,
Alan
Edited by spiritsailor on Sep 30, 2012 - 10:22 PM.
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I am Restoring a 1981 G-Cat 5.0 - I have Some Questions
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Posted: Sep 30, 2012 - 09:47 PM
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Posted: Sep 30, 2012 - 10:43 PM
http://thebeachcats.com/pictures/?g2_itemId=80966
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Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
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Posted: Oct 01, 2012 - 12:18 PM
Thank you, this is helpful
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Posted: Oct 02, 2012 - 04:43 AM
Unfortunately, the broken/missing pieces will be next to impossible to find. You're probably going to have to channel your inner McGuyver to come up with solutions/replacements. The rudder system I've seen replaced with a Hobie rudder system. The mast base is going to be the hardest part. Maybe adapt the mast ball from a H18?
G-Cat has no boom vang so I'm not sure what you're asking about. -
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Posted: Oct 02, 2012 - 05:41 AM
answer to question #4. It is the mast rotator control arm -
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Posted: Oct 02, 2012 - 07:46 AM
there were over 2000 g-cats produced
if you look hard (use forums, craigslist, ebay, etc) ... you can find dead boats that have your parts -
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Posted: Oct 02, 2012 - 10:09 AM
Thanks for all your replies. We are in the engineering and implementation stage over here (my son is champing at the bit to get her on the water) so after we have our interim workarounds in place I will continue to search for stock parts.
I am glad to learn this. The point I was referring to is the rotator for the mast, I will create something that will do the job. I like the solution that turbohobo did for his boat, it makes sense.
The first part I want to replace is a rudder casting, so if anyone comes across a rudder casting for a G-Cat 5.0 please let me know.
I will post pictures if our workarounds are successful.
Thanks again,
Alan
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Posted: Oct 03, 2012 - 09:11 PM
Does anyone have any good pictures of a G-Cat rigged and ready to go? We are having to fabricate hardware.
Why is there a cam cleat with a fairlead attached to the aft beam in the center of the traveler rail?
Thanks
Edited by spiritsailor on Oct 03, 2012 - 09:12 PM.
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Posted: Oct 04, 2012 - 08:24 AM
here is one...
&
I will work on getting a better one for you
Edited by MN3 on Oct 04, 2012 - 08:33 AM. -
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Posted: Oct 04, 2012 - 08:31 AM
- Gcat with Papa G (Hans)
Edited by MN3 on Oct 04, 2012 - 08:32 AM. -
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Posted: Oct 04, 2012 - 11:09 AM
MN3,
This is a great picture.
Edited by klozhald on Oct 04, 2012 - 10:09 AM.
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Sheet In!
Bob
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Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
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Posted: Oct 04, 2012 - 11:49 AM
Yeah that one is spectacular,
Thanks for the pics, I still don't know what this is for:
http://spirit28.com/cleat/cleat_on_aft_beam.jpg
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Posted: Oct 04, 2012 - 12:04 PM
That is the cam/cleat for your traveler line. The line is tied off on the rear of the cross beam, through the traveler car then through the fairlead and cleat. The line is usually continuous with the main sheet or you can have a separate line to control the traveler. -
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Posted: Oct 04, 2012 - 12:35 PM
Setup should be similar to my 5.7. It should look like this:
Edited by Edchris177 on Oct 04, 2012 - 03:33 PM.
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Posted: Oct 04, 2012 - 12:40 PM
I thought it was something like that but it looks like I am maybe missing some blocks. Are there two lines that go through the fairlead into the cleat so the traveler can be pulled in either direction?
Does anyone have a good picture of the traveler rigged up?
When you said:
How would that be rigged?
I appreciate all your time here folks, I have seen all sorts of different rigging configurations and I can usually figure it out, but this one is completely new to me.
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Posted: Oct 04, 2012 - 03:29 PM
Did you see the photo in my post above?
"continuous" can mean several things. usually they are 2 separate lines, main sheet & traveler line. you can see in my photo that I use 2 separate lines,(traveler line is about 10' IIRC). I tie the free end of the traveler line to the free end of the mains sheet, to make a "continuous" line. This is not necessary, but it keeps the end of the traveler line within reach. Other ways are to splice the traveler line to the end of the mainsheet. Note the knot in the line, (near the cleat), this prevents the traveler from slamming into the stop at end of the track. If it does it will break the stop.
I currently have a single swivel block attached to the beam, giving me a 3:1 on the traveler, but it is not required. Rigged as per the photo, you have 2:1 which is adequate.
No, you only need 1 line. Again, look at my photo. In this pic, the sail is off to the left of the screen,(the car is slightly left of center). The car has 2 sheaves, one at each end, you can see the line goes from being dead ended on the beam, around a sheave, through the bullseye fairlead, then through the cleat. By playing the line, you move the car. Pulling will bring car towards center, allowing line to run will let the car move out towards the end of the beam.
When you tack, as the sail moves to the other side, the line will simply move to the other sheave in the car,(as the car slides past center), & playing the same line will simply do the same thing, only the car will move to the other end of the beam.
Some of the new Nacras use a line shaped like a "Y", with 2 short arms,(one going to an eyestrap on each side of center, & the tail fed like my photo. Pulling the line in hard sucks both "legs" & centers the car.
Here is another view of the same thing, showing car fully let out to the stop.
Edited by Edchris177 on Oct 04, 2012 - 03:37 PM.
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Posted: Oct 04, 2012 - 04:31 PM
Thanks, that was exactly what I needed to see. The G-Cat 5.0 I have has a different car, it has sheaves like yours, but it also has cam cleats on either side of them. This is what was confusing me, maybe it is an after market part, or there are alternative ways to rig it. Either way, you have cleared the air for me, Thanks.
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Posted: Oct 04, 2012 - 04:56 PM
You may have what is known as Cam on Car. Bigger boats need more complex systems to handle the loads, Harken makes cars with cleats on the car, & can be rigged to give more powerful purchase. It is not needed on a 5 meter Cat.
Here are some examples;
http://www.harken.com/rigtips/Travelers.php
Edited by Edchris177 on Oct 04, 2012 - 05:04 PM.
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Posted: Oct 04, 2012 - 07:05 PM
http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=63029
last 5 pics
Edited by the-renovator on Oct 04, 2012 - 07:07 PM. -
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Posted: Oct 04, 2012 - 08:02 PM
I was going to suggest The Renovators solution, that is the real "continuous", & a good choice if you are starting out by buying new lines. If you are using what came with the boat, chances are the main sheet is not long enough. You need an extra 10' of line for the traveler.
Many people also use a thinner line for the traveler. It can be incorporated nicely by braiding it into the end of the main.
If you just want to get on the water, tie it to the end...DON"T FOGET THE STOPPER KNOT to limit the cars travel.
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