jib connections :: Catamaran Sailboats at TheBeachcats.com

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jib connections

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BrianCT

Rank: Lubber

Registered: Sep 14, 2010

Last visit: Oct 30, 2016

Posts: 58
Posted: Oct 25, 2012 - 12:52 PM

nacra55What I did for a buddy was use a stopper knot attached to the jib clew.
http://l-36.com/stopper_loop_alt.php

Then make the first part of the soft shackle but instead of the stopper knot at the end, after the burry, bring the line back out so that you have two lines and make two eye splices to attach the blocks. I don't have a pic for it but it's just a variation of above. The stopper knot end stays with the jib and the other stays with the jib sheets and blocks.
http://l-36.com/soft_shackle_9.php

This is what we use for Spin tack and halyard.
http://l-36.com/halyard_shackle.php

Wow, that was extremely helpful and very nicely illustrated. Thank you!!
MN3

Rank: Master Chief

Registered: Jun 20, 2006

Last visit: Dec 04, 2024

Posts: 7090
Posted: Oct 26, 2012 - 08:23 AM

QuoteThanks andrew ru sailing tomorrow its gonna be windy!!!

I forgot who was behind this screenname .. hahah
Prob not unless i am on your cat :)

D, i have an extra soft shackle (got it from eric w on the Capricorn), would be glad to give it to you
and i would be happy to splice a pig-tail/lead for ya. Let me know and i will go to ellies and get 4 or 5' of dingy control line and strip off the jacket

let me know
MN3

Rank: Master Chief

Registered: Jun 20, 2006

Last visit: Dec 04, 2024

Posts: 7090
Posted: Oct 26, 2012 - 08:25 AM

iliketosailThat looks nice, you should do a write up, I would be interested.
presto99Here is how I do mine. May try to do a write up on it. http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=96203

Interesting that you do your core-passes so far back from the eye.

Edited by MN3 on Oct 26, 2012 - 09:05 AM.
presto13031

Rank: Mate

Registered: Jan 21, 2003

Last visit: Feb 10, 2015

Posts: 115
Posted: Oct 29, 2012 - 07:46 AM

MN3
iliketosailThat looks nice, you should do a write up, I would be interested.
presto99Here is how I do mine. May try to do a write up on it. http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=96203

Interesting that you do your core-passes so far back from the eye.Edited by MN3 on Oct 26, 2012 - 09:05 AM.

I used an ancient engineering method, called TLAR*, to determine the precise locations of each splice. This was my first attempt at doing this. This was using 1/8" single braid Amsteel, so there was no core. I haven't tested it out, but after getting hit by the shackle, I figured this would be safer.
TLAR = That Looks About Right

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Jeff
Houston TX
1986 Hobie 18 Sail# 13031
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MN3

Rank: Master Chief

Registered: Jun 20, 2006

Last visit: Dec 04, 2024

Posts: 7090
Posted: Oct 29, 2012 - 09:43 AM

haha, i doubt the location of the passes has any effect on strength, durability etc, ..
presto13031

Rank: Mate

Registered: Jan 21, 2003

Last visit: Feb 10, 2015

Posts: 115
Posted: Oct 29, 2012 - 02:14 PM

MN3haha, i doubt the location of the passes has any effect on strength, durability etc, ..

We shall see. I will work on a write up with pictures next week. Been busy with work and going to the NASCAR races this weekend at Texas.

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Jeff
Houston TX
1986 Hobie 18 Sail# 13031
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Edchris177

Rank: Chief

Registered: Nov 26, 2009

Last visit: Aug 10, 2024

Posts: 2531
Posted: Nov 14, 2012 - 12:20 PM

Quotejust looking for other options the shackle has worked for me as well but is eating up the front of the mast.

QuoteI have put some white dacron sail tape on my mast where my blocks beats up the mast

I have not yet protected the mast from jib blocks, but I did some experiments to protect where the original jib halyard block beat up the mast. This is the 5.7 before it was converted to roller furling & the wire block removed.
As a proof of concept, on the 5.0, we used a small piece of inner tube, wiped down with acetone, then attached to the mast using Aquaseal thickened with Cotol. It worked very well,(yeah the inner tube piece was/is ugly, but being way up the mast is not noticeable) after a full season it is still firmly attached, with no tendency for the edges to pull up.
Next season, on the lower section, where the jib blocks hit, we are going to try a leftover piece of a 3M product, AeroGard, developed to protect leading edges of propeller blades, car headlights & hoods. I installed it on a new car last year, but didn't bother with the mirrors,as they were fairly complex curves & difficult to make look good on your first try. Simple curves, like a mast are quite easy. It is nearly invisible when applied, tough & UV proof.
http://www.clearmask.com/aerogard.php
http://www.clearmask.com/3M-films.php
You may know someone who has used a kit, & has some left over, or you can buy it in fairly small pieces. Even an 18" piece,(sold by the running foot, $10) would do several boats. You do not need an installation kit to do the front of a mast. You probably have a spritzer bottle to spray soapy water with, & many garage/household items will work as a squeegee for that small area. Watch the installation video.
Andrews idea is definitely KISS, but this is high tech!

Edited by Edchris177 on Nov 14, 2012 - 12:32 PM.

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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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