enThis one might be worth a look. GH
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'82 Super Cat 15
Hull #315
Virginia
Previously owned: '70 H14, '79 H16, '68 Sailmaster 26, '85 H14T
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Nacra 5.0 in FLA
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Posted: Apr 12, 2013 - 09:29 AM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=161006420608&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink en
This one might be worth a look. GH
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'82 Super Cat 15
Hull #315
Virginia
Previously owned: '70 H14, '79 H16, '68 Sailmaster 26, '85 H14T
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Posted: Apr 12, 2013 - 10:17 AM
I call dibs. No one else bid
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-Zach
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Posted: Apr 12, 2013 - 11:42 AM
Where is it? found it.. hidden right on top of the add
Edited by MN3 on Apr 12, 2013 - 11:50 AM. -
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Posted: Apr 13, 2013 - 08:29 PM
its in my back yard
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Posted: Apr 14, 2013 - 05:53 AM
Is that because you were selling it, or did you buy it? I'm thinking the smily means the latter.
IF you now own it, you will like it! I have an identical boat, same year, same color. It looks like there are a few small patches on the batten pockets. These wear, especially where they rub on the shrouds, easy fix at your local sail loft.
Both manuals are here in the tech section.
http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=35212
Try to get your diamond wires at the same tension, & spend a few minutes with the boat on the trailer to rig the rudders parallel, otherwise you will find it handles quite differently on opposite tacks.
I will want to rear the stern up on a stiff wind broad reach, sit/trap right at the tiller X bar & you're OK. I have only pitchpoled it once, & that was with water in the hull that ran to the bow.
It is the same to right as the larger 5.7, I need a bag unless I have 15+ wind.
I can do 20mph on the GPS with it, have not yet quite matched the 5.7, but very close.
They are a wonderful solo boat, & handle 2 well.
ENJOY!
Edited by Edchris177 on Apr 14, 2013 - 05:55 AM.
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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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Posted: Apr 14, 2013 - 10:22 AM
Thanks Ed! We have been on the lookout for a while now and missed out on a really nice 5.0 in Dallas a few months ago, but it was more than i really wanted to spend anyways. (it had been for sale for 5 months and someone just happened to buy it 2 days before we made the trip)
I have read some of your 5.7 vs 5.0 comparisons and really thought about trying to find a 5.7 but for me and my girlfriend at 240-250lb combined weight, we need every little advantage that we can get. Dealing with larger boats on the sugary sand around here is kind of a chore as well. -
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Posted: Apr 14, 2013 - 07:08 PM
I should have proof read that...it reads totally wrong. I DO NOT WANT TO REAR THE STERN UP,EVER! It is supposed to read IT, as in the boat!
Good thing you didn't wait, Nacraman57 will be pulling his hair out, he has been looking for another 5.0 for a while.
You won't need a bag if you have the GF along, even a 100lb kid will be enough with yourself.
Those 2 manuals in the above link, one is slightly newer & has better photos. I changed the downhaul on ours from what the book shows. I use a V jam block with an "S" hook on one end.(photo does not have the hook)
This makes for fast rigging, once the mainsail is hoisted & hooked, just drop the "S" into the downhaul grommet, pull the line to achieve desired tension, & yank into the V groove. You can adjust on the fly, or slack the sail while beached without undoing anything. I can send a photo if all is not clear.
Get an Arriba FX-3 hiking stik, 8' long, you will need that length in order to get forward on the wire, in order to sink the bows when pinching/upwind.
Set up your rudders, then wrap about 5-6 turns of SS lockwire around the stamped "U" shackle that connects the tie bar to the tiller bars. The idea is to wrap them so they cannot turn on the bolt. IF they do, & they will, it no longer becomes a "U" joint, but locks movement of the rudders, always at the worst possible time. I have seen other solutions, this way costs 50 cents, 5 minutes, & works.
Read the manual, don't get over enthusiastic about torquing down the beam strap bolts, only 18 ft lbs, ESPECIALLY if you don't have end caps. Otherwise you will compress the groove the tramp goes in, & will never be able to get it off! Nacrman came up with a cheap & elegant solution to build end caps.
They are all in this album...While you're perusing that, look at the photo of stuffing a hull. I have done this on both boat, on numerous occasions, & she came back up.
http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=79084
If you don't have pivmatics, get some, especially if you sail in shallows. New rudders are expensive, & you can't use the more common 5.2(boarded hulls) blades, they are to short.
One drawback of the 5.0/5.7 is the hull rise at the stern. You need to be on a steep beach, or tip the hulls nearly 45* to drain them. No problem if you pull the boat everyday. We figured out a way to tip on the lifts they are kept on.
Sail it like you stole it... you will love the boardless, simple design, & the totally uncluttered tramp.
Edited by Edchris177 on Apr 14, 2013 - 07:09 PM.
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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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Posted: Apr 14, 2013 - 07:37 PM
have you sold the prindle? might have a buyer...
congrads!!! i hope to get down before april is over cause it's blowin' stank right now
see you soon!
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bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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Posted: Apr 14, 2013 - 09:10 PM
So me and my girlfriend at 240-250lb combined wont have any issues righting it?
We just had enough time to wash some grime off today so I haven't had a chance to step the mast and figure out her downhaul setup. One odd thing i did notice was how the main sheet merely used an open ended hook to fasten itself to the mainsail. Is that normal for these boomless cats? It also had some odd contraption on the forestay(for the jib i assume).
Unfortunately it didnt come with many goodies like cat trax, arriba stick(fx4 on my prindle is brand new..), etc. But i think it may already have pivmatics? I went out and took a picture just too see if you could clarify that for me. Also curious if it has the correct rudders..
and what do i do about the tramp track separating from the hull? The other side had screws holding the track in and this side has rivets.
Bill, the prindle is for sale. Feel free to come test her out whenever, for as long as you'd like. If you and hank want to come give it a whirl just give me a call. I need some stuff for the new boat(mainly cat trax) and using the old boat to fund it would be a great way to do it. Hopefully we can meet up and sail soon because i read the p16 and n5.0 have very similar handicap ratings . I may also need to use your cat trax to get her to the water's edge...i think the p19 ones are a little too wide.
Edited by matt922 on Apr 14, 2013 - 09:14 PM. -
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Posted: Apr 14, 2013 - 09:28 PM
Yep those are pivmatics. Rudders shape look good. Lenght wise can't tell.
I would drill those rivets out. Clean the crap from under neat the track and rivet back in with some silicone or marine tex in rivet holes.
Can't wait for more pictures.
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Adam Bartos
Nacra 5.0
SolCat 18 (sold)
Lake Zurich, IL
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Posted: Apr 14, 2013 - 09:33 PM
Ed, I would be interested seeing that in the pictues. As they say, picture is worth...
By the way, I installed my traveler car back on the track today. Works great. Thanks again.
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Adam Bartos
Nacra 5.0
SolCat 18 (sold)
Lake Zurich, IL
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Posted: Apr 14, 2013 - 09:52 PM
You need countersunk rivets so that the car will slide over the rivet heads, and using casings are a good idea.
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Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
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Posted: Apr 15, 2013 - 08:41 AM
a friend might be interested in the prindle...i'll contact him today.
i have a tiller extension for you, whatever size you want, no charge!!
i am interested in sailing with the 5.0, cause i sail circles around another friend with a 5.2!!! you know who you are
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bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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Posted: Apr 16, 2013 - 03:56 AM
Correct, as long as you are athletic enough to be able to hike in a "plank" position. My buddy is 180lb, & it is not quite enough to solo right. I use a thick line, attached to base of mast. Just throw it over the hull, & hike. Test it on a calm day, you will find it helps to have some strategically placed knots. Seal the mast, the boat will sit on its side, with the top few feet of mast underwater.
Correct, it makes life really easy when solo. Heading to shore, have lots of slack in mainsheet,(just grab all the lines & pull the clew over if you need a bit more power to reach shore). Round up into the wind, pop the hook out of the clew plate, release jib, & hop overboard & walk the boat where you want it. The jib will flog, & the main will go to "null".
Post a photo, it may be the 3:1 setup that the 5.7 came with.
Yes, it does. Those cleats are the older plastic ones. The teeth tend to wear, resulting in poor grip of the line. You can drill out 2 rivets & change the jam cleat if required. Once they begin to slip, you can also extend the life by using a thinner line. It will go down further into the "V", where the teeth are still sharp. The ruddrs & castings are original NAcra. IIRC the bladed measure 36" from tip to the hole where the bungee line goes. They are longer than the boarded boat rudders.
Drill out the old rivets, & replace with aluminum pop rivets, with a bit of silicone sealant. I did that after 2 years of pounding the heck out of my 5.7.
Myy 5.0 did not have a track for the jib blocks, they were fixed in one spot. The 5.7 has tracks, but the alumijum pop rivets did not stick up enough to interfere with the jib car. Ron's advice of casings is good, the holes may be worn. You can bend a short piece of wire,(small hook at 1 end) put it in the hole, & ascertain how long of a shank you need on the rivet, IIRC I used 1/4". If you have a hatch & can reach inside, I would add a small aluminum washer to spread the load. You could even use a strip of aluminum inside the hull, drill the end hole, rivet it, then drill the next hole, rivet & so on. That way you don't have to worry about the hjoles matching up.
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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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Posted: Apr 16, 2013 - 04:25 AM
Good, glad to hear those bearings arrived & worked for you.
I cribbed this photo from Wolfmans N5.2, showing how to rig the downhaul.You won't have the boom, or wishbone, & the eyestrap on the mast should be below the cheekblock(he is using the one originally for the jib).
Feed the foot of the sail into the groove, place the "S" hook into the sail clew, pull the line to tension, yank the bitter end into the jam cleat. Rig it with "good" line, something stiff that will really stick in the cleat, & resist wear. Once it starts to wear, reverse it to get double the life. Better yet, get it 8" longer than what you need. You can then move the knot that dead ends it on the eye strap. That will move the point where wears in the jam, you get years of use out of 1 line.
Note how the "S" on the hook must be turned 90*to the body of the fiddle block, easy to do in a vice & a crescent wrench. If you don't do this, the block wears against the sail.
Make damn sure the little swaged ball on the main halyard is fully in the "fork" up near the masthead. The 5.0 is trickier than the 5.7 as the fork is closer to the top. I always bring the halyard towards the rear & give it a good yank, to get the line/ball fully into the fork. If you don't, it will pop out, & the downhaul tension will jerk the sail down, quite possibly tearing the sail right at the groove where you feed it into the track. This is a major PITA if solo when it happens as you have to dig out the halyard & rehoist the sail, while bobbing around at the worst possible time.
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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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Posted: Apr 16, 2013 - 04:34 AM
Look closely at where the tie bar meets the tiller arm. See the bottom the "U" fitting that holds them together? That is where you want to wrap SS lockwire to prevent that fitting from turning on the bolt.If it does it will lock up your rudders.
Murrays sells a double "U", for about $55, supposedly to prevent this problem. They can still lock up, just use 50 cents worth of wire, & save the $55 for beer, or a new FX stik.
Also, note the stopper knot in the traveller line. Put it in so the car cannot quite reach the end of the track. At some point you will gybe & not finesse the car. If it slams into the end of the track, it will shear the stop, go off the track, & $20+ worth of bearings will go into he drink. Cick on photo to blow up to full size.
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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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Posted: Apr 16, 2013 - 05:26 PM
Here is a better shot, of how it should be rigged. This is not my boat, I think it's an old shot from Philip(MUMMP), but this is how I do it. Ignore the stuff on top of the block, just rig as per his green line. I think he was set up with another piece of line dead ended on the other side of the mast, that ran through the sail grommet. If you hook the "S" hook onto that line it doubles your purchase, but you don't want to do that on your 5.0. Those sails were not designed to suffer those kinds of downhauls. If you have to attach a cheek block or eye strap, plan it out, you will want the fittings as low on the mast as you can get them,(you can't go right to the bottom of the mast as the base extends about an inch up into the extrusion) as the stock 5.0 sail grommet sits quite low. Note how he has fitted the eye strap to the top hole of the cheek block.
I never remove the system. When done sailing just remove the "S" hook & clip it to the bottom of the diamond wire, then snug up. See those 2 holes in the mast? If you have anything like that seal them! If you ever turtle the boat, you will severely regret leaving something like that open.
Edited by Edchris177 on Apr 16, 2013 - 05:40 PM.
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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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Posted: Apr 16, 2013 - 08:21 PM
Ed, still haven't had much time to fool around with the boat as much as i'd like, but starting to notice a few little things. The more you talk about the rigging on this boat, the more i'm amazed at the sheer simplicity of it. I rolled out the sails today and it appears that 2 or 3 batten pockets have a reinforced area to protect against the spreaders.
The beam straps on the hulls that all round beam nacras seem to have... this 5.0 doesn't have them, is that something to worry about?
Also, you mention sealing the mast. There is a decent little void on the mast base casting by the sail track, is yours like that too? How did you go about sealing this primitive spreader setup? Just silicone it up?
Hopefully tomorrow afternoon i can take some pix for you guys to take a gander over. Everything so far seems to be checking out OK. Amazing how even a "cheap" boat in good condition can end up costing you a good little chunk of $. Tramp has a small hole, but i'll probably just try to make it through the season with the one it has, needs new shrouds(rust at swaged ends), i need some 8' wide cat trax(either buy the 8' cat trax axle and sell p19 without trax or take the hit and buy a set of new trax). -
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Posted: Apr 16, 2013 - 09:32 PM
That was an old set up. Ed, you are correct. The white line with blue and red tracers indeed goes through the cringle and dead ends on the other side of mast. There are alot of different blocks you can set up to do this. In the picture I used a Fico fiddle block with jam cleat. Simple, minimum amount of hardware and effective.
Here is the picture with the description.
http://www.thebeachcats.c…293&g2_imageViewsIndex=1
I later upgraded to a stiffer mast section to match a PE15 high aspect ratio main sail, which required this for the downhaul.
http://www.thebeachcats.c…290&g2_imageViewsIndex=1
Sounds strange. What's there? Remember the Nacra's have different size beam straps for the main beam and rear beam.
Edited by mummp on Apr 16, 2013 - 09:44 PM.
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Philip
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Posted: Apr 17, 2013 - 11:46 AM
Ed and Philip, I like your idea and I guess I will need some more parts. Do you think I can use some old main sheet blocks (upper section only)?
Ed, only 1 bearing ball survive the trip but that was what I needed. Thanks a lot
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Adam Bartos
Nacra 5.0
SolCat 18 (sold)
Lake Zurich, IL
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