Hi! I've found reading the threads here so helpful I thought I would ask for opinions on how I should go about fixing some hull damage.
This is my first spring with my Hobie 18 and excitement got the better of me. I was involved in a collision at the start of our opening regatta. The damage is a big chip out of the gel coat on the leading edge of the bow. The fiberglass looks intact to me but, I'm not sure if I should re gel coat or fill or what really.
Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Edited by redbeard on Apr 22, 2013 - 06:42 AM.
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Andy
'86 Hobie 18
High Point, North Carolina
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How should I repair this?
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Posted: Apr 21, 2013 - 03:57 PM
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Posted: Apr 22, 2013 - 08:28 AM
my son did this on hi h-16. use west system epoxy w/ 407 or 410 filler. mix to peanut butter consistency, fill chips and stretch saran wrap over repair, tape down and next day yer good to go. if desired, paint to hide repairs. just my $.02 worth.
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Mike Conway
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Posted: Apr 22, 2013 - 08:54 AM
If you're not adding any glass, I think the right way to do it is polyester resin -- either a fairing compound first (ie bondo) and then gel coat, or just build up with several layers of gelcoat and start sanding.
That said, I don't think I know anyone w/ an 80s boat that doesn't just marine tex chips in the bows and move on.
Do you have a bigger pic? (I assume your avatar is a pic of the dmg in question?)
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Rob
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Posted: Apr 22, 2013 - 11:52 AM
I would circle it with a sharpie and make a note beside it to not do that again.
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Posted: Apr 22, 2013 - 12:26 PM
That cracked me up, maybe an arrow pointing to the damage to alert other sailors to stay out of your way!
But seriously, CatSailorMike's method is the preferred method, you do want to fill that in water-tight so you don't get the water in the core. However the solid glass is really thick on the bow of the H18 and Marine-Tex will get you sailing quickly, then do the better repair in the off-season.
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Damon Linkous
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Posted: Apr 22, 2013 - 02:09 PM
After decades of using the nuclear chalk that is Marine-Tex, I discovered this:
http://solarez.com/productsnew/e_extreme.html
It is premixed in the tube. It cures harder than the fiberglass in sunlight in as little as five miunutes, depending on thickness and the UV index that day.
Turn your damaged hull on its side. Use clear Mylar from a florist instead of saran wrap (which stretches too easily) to hold the Solarez in place. Cure in direct sunlight until it is hard and remove the mylar. Sanding into shape is easy- or may not be necessary- and it can be covered with colored gelcoat if you wish.
Look for the instructional video on their site about fixing a ding in the edge of a surfboard- very similar to what you are doing. The second and third parts of the video apply more to your situation.
I have been using the stuff for two years on hulls, centerboards and rudders. Really strong and fast.
You can repair a serious issue on shore and go back out in minutes.
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Posted: Apr 22, 2013 - 02:53 PM
what does the other guy look like?...
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Posted: Apr 23, 2013 - 06:37 PM
Wow! Thanks so much for the suggestions. Great info here
I'm going to do a quick repair and then attempt a more complete repair in the off season. Hopefully I won't be adding to my repair list anytime soon. Crunch is not a sound you want to hear on a boat.
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Andy
'86 Hobie 18
High Point, North Carolina
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Posted: Apr 24, 2013 - 05:32 AM
That is exactly how I repaired the leading edge of my Invitation dagger board, & a Nacra dagger board from an old 5.2.
An angle grinder will ream out the damaged material, & allows you to cut away original material so as to give a shallow bevel in under a minute. You can cut & add a layer or two of matting into the mix.
The Saran Wrap (or any sheet of plastic) will allow you to contour the patch almost exactly to the hull profile, very little sanding required. After sanding, mix up a little resin & wipe it on with a gloved finger, to seal up any exposed fibres.
I find it is easier in the long run to do this, lets be honest, it is way to easy to just leave the "temporary" patch in place next spring. If you do get at it, grinding it out & redoing things is more work/time than just mixing the epoxy the first time.
Edited by Edchris177 on Apr 24, 2013 - 05:36 AM.
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