I think I'm loooking for techniqie pointers -
Sailed our 5.0 for the first time yesterday with my wife, teaching her to sail,and crew. Mission Bay, 3 - 5 kts, gusts to 8, warm, perfect first day out for us.
1 Wife had great difficulty uncleating the Harkins on the jib sheet, I can't see a way to adjust the cleat angle any more to allow the line to release easier ?
2 Coached wife on back winding the jib while tacking, she got it very clearly, but the leach hangs on the spreader sometimes?
3. The mast rotated a full 90' on all points of sail, is this right? That created the jib leach issue.
We are never going to race this great old boat, but want to enjoy a well sailed cat. We are light, ~ 280 lbs total crew weight, and in our 50's -60's, so strength and endurance are not like a 25 year olds. I've got dinghy racing experience from 20 years ago, but have a lot to learn about catamaran sailing.
Thanks in advance, I've been a lurker here for quite a while, and enjoy all the well informed discussion.
Nacra 5.0 orientation
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Posted: Jun 20, 2013 - 11:22 AM
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Posted: Jun 20, 2013 - 01:42 PM
Jib cleats can sometimes be tricky, for sure. Few things:
The larger the line, the easier to uncleat. I like hi-tech 5/16" lines for my mainsheet, which I really only cleat when under spin, but for my jib sheet I like 5/16" sta set, as it's the smallest line I can make work properly. 1/4" is almost impossible to uncleat b/c of hte diameter, and sta-set will absorb water, which makes it easier to 'pop' because of the heft, if that makes sense. I don't know what you have, but if you were to go to 3/8" new sta-set for the jib sheet, provided the cleats are turned up as far as possible, I doubt she'd have to much trouble at all, as long as she is trying to whip/pop the line out of the cleat.
The jib leech catching on the spreader might actually be due to you purposefully back-winding it. Read the section of Rick White's catamaran book on roll tacks and give that a shot -- I doubt you keep catching.
To sum it up poorly: when tacking, skipper stays put during turn, crew pops jib sheet and holds in place until center of turn, when she can let it out and cross with the other end in hand, and pull it tight as she sits on the opposite hull. If the two of you are in sync w/ her movement and your turn, the jib should just follow the direction of the wind across the front of the boat. Your weight being still on the back corner will act as a bit of a pivot on top of the skeg that the boat will rotate around. As soon as you cross head-to-wind, let about 18" of main sheet out. As soon as the main starts to power up on the new tack, then you cross to windward.
HTH
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Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
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Posted: Jun 20, 2013 - 01:47 PM
It will happen, especially downwind, & is desirable. On my 5.7, (the big brother of your 5.0, we use a rotator bar to induce more rotation. The idea is to have the leading edge of your mast face the wind. This allows a smoother laminar flow past the mast & along the sail.
Don't try to pull the sheet in a linear motion, against the force holding it. Yank the sheet directly upwards,(or downwards, depending on which way the cleats are mounted). If pulled at 90* to the load on the line, the sheet will move out of the cleat jaws fairly easily.
In any wind, it should be blown to the lee side pretty easily. Do you have a preventer rigged to stop the jib blocks from hanging up at the base of the mast? It is a 1/4" bungee line. Tie or dead end to a strap eye on the front beam just at the inside edge of the hull. Run it up through the strap eye on the front of the mast, there should be on already there, about 3' up, then to the other side of the boat, & end it the same way you began. It doesn't have to be really pulled tight, just some tension so it won't sag. This will deflect the jib & blocks around to the other side of the mast.
Check to make sure you those little plastic wheels on the diamond wires. There should be 1 on each wire, sitting just topside of the spreader bar. They will turn & allow the jib the easily slip to the other side, without hanging up. They have to be put on before the fittings are swaged onto the diamond wires. If missing, you can buy 2 that snap together. Here are the ones I got at West Marine for our 5.0
http://www.westmarine.com…ssNum=50094#.UcNceFJc3iQ
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Hobie 18 Magnum
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Posted: Jun 20, 2013 - 03:36 PM
bbaum, Welcome to TheBeachcats.com!
Sounds like you have made a good start, great sailing area you have. Check below for tips on creating your avatar and signature and sharing photos.
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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
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How To Create Your Signature
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How To Display Pictures In The Forums.
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Posted: Jun 21, 2013 - 06:12 AM
I just read that again. The first time I mistakenly thought you wrote, "some points of sail", which is normal.
Having the mast turn 90* on ALL points of sail is not right.
Although your rigging should be fairly tight, it should not impede the ability of the mast to freely rotate. As the wind fills the sail, it creates a bend in the fabric. The mast follows the path of least resistance, & turns so the leading edge faces into the wind, & conforms to the sail shape.
It is a fairly powerful force. Just grab your diamond wires or rotator bar & try to turn the mast the other way. Even in 10kts of wind, it is pretty hard to turn it even 30* the wrong way.
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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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Posted: Jun 21, 2013 - 09:27 AM
Thanks All, this got me thinking further.
Jib cleats - (are at full up adjustment currently, pretty sure it's 5/16 line) I can whip the sheet down, and release the sheet from my position easily, but from the front it appears the sheet to trampoline clearance only allows for a small angle to whip the line out of the cleat. Any harm in turning the harken other side up? So the sheet is whipped up to release?
Roll tacks - I did read Rick White several months ago, and loved the idea of roll tacking this boat. Time to read it again. I think Robs got it, I'm overkilling with to much time back winding the jib, and roll tacking. Those 5.0 bows up out of the water do help the boat around nicely, diminishing the jib back wind needed. Next time, I'll ask for just minimal jib back winding in the tack. Might be able to get the jib across CL before the mast rotates.
Mast rotation - I suspect my rig is to loose, that mast flops completely from one side to the other instantly when we tack or jibe. On a beat, or close reach, its hard over 90' to CL all the time. In these light conditions, it's not really streamlined into the wind direction as suggested.
I like the preventer at the base of the mast, I'll install something before we go out next week. The sheet did catch under the mast a couple of times.
NEW Question - Hull trim going to weather in these light conditions, and flat water. My guess is the stem should be about 10" showing above the water surface, and 11" below the water. I set close to crew as possible and together move for or aft to get this "hull pitch". Intuition tells me this much hull below water might help pointing. Am I to much bow down, or about right?
Also, next week wife try's the trapeze, she's gonna love this! -
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Posted: Jun 21, 2013 - 09:53 AM
It's hard to have too much bow down on those. If you can only see water where the bow should be, scoot back a touch. Otherwise, drive them down.
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Rob
OKC
Pile of Nacra parts..
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Posted: Jun 21, 2013 - 03:10 PM
Do this and it will fix your problem. Reverse the cleat. I have been preaching it for years. Gives you a much more favorable sheeting angle and makes the release very easy under high load.
http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=18431
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Philip
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