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Nacra 5.2 jib halyard, block to block  Bottom

  • Hi all,
    Setting up the 5.2 for heavy air last week, everything tight.
    My Jib halyard went block to block and I couldn't get it any tighter, jib kept flapping around when i would try to pinch. PITA
    Any ideas as to what is up? Halyard too long? Jib tack was on the bottom of the chain pate. I've have this boat out 4-5 times, never heavy stuff until last week. Seems like shortening the halyard or moving the cleat and lower block down on the mast (drilling and filling holes on the mast, yuk) would be the solution but I want to make sure that I'm not overlooking something.
    Oh yeah, I had a notable case of weather helm too, going to bring the mast up a hole but it seems that the jib tension may have been a factor? Assuming that jib halyard tension brings the mast forward like it did on my H16?

    Thoughts?
    Thanks

    --
    Cesar (Cez) S.
    Hobie 16 (had a few)
    Nacra 5.2 "Hull Yeah"
    Vectorworks XJ - A class (not named yet)
    West Michigan (Grand Rapids/Holland Area)
    --
  • cezo823 Assuming that jib halyard tension brings the mast forward like it did on my H16?

    Thoughts?
    Thanks


    No it's not like a 16. The jib doesn't have a wire luff like the 16 and does not set the rig tension. The rig should be tight before the jib goes up.

    --
    Ron
    Nacra F18
    Reservoir Sailing Assn.
    Brandon, Mississippi
    --
  • What do you mean the jib halyard went block to block

    --
    Nacra 5.2
    --
  • ??? Pic 38

    http://www.thebeachcats.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=35294&g2_serialNumber=5



    Edited by the-renovator on Jul 30, 2013 - 04:26 PM.
  • QuoteMy Jib halyard went block to block and I couldn't get it any tighter, jib kept flapping around

    Renovators post above gives the start. The finish is the same manual, item 60.
    Guys, re-read his line above. He is not talking about the "jib sheet" blocks, that would take a pigtail 6' long. He is talking about the small block used on the halyard, to tension the jib.
    First, Ron has it right with regards to tension the rig. Shrouds tension the rig, a shorter fore stay just means less rake on the mast, with shrouds in the same hole.
    From your post,(block to block), it seems you have the original 3:1 system. Jib halyard goes around the wire block attached to the mast, then down the mast, with a block-with becket? Looks like this?
    http://www.thebeachcats.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=74274&g2_serialNumber=6
    Block attached to wire halyard, line portion of halyard attached to becket. You pull on the long line, the tail tied to the becket is about 3'?
    If your jib is tacked down near the bridal/forestay connection, & you can't tension it, there are only about 3 possibilities.
    From your description, it seems that the jib is tacked low, the right size,(not to long), and the head of the jib is not jamming up against the wire block on mast, which might occur if jib was wrong size.
    Once you hoist the jib, you need about 8" between the block on the wire halyard & the cheek block on the mast. If you don't have that space, you don't have room to tension the jib, as the top block moves down with tension. Perhaps the wire portion is from another boat, & to long, dangling the block-w-becket nearly at the cheek block on mast?
    The easy fix is go to a West Marine, snip off the block, cut off a short section,then using the same thimble swage the block back on. Total cost, under $2, they let you use the swager for free, just buy the swage fittings.
    Before you do that look at the really simple things. Is the bowline tieing the rope portion to the becket snug? It seems obvious, but if the loop is 6" long, that can be regained by re-tieing. Notice on my photo the loop is quite long. In my case it doesn't matter as the cheek block is near the foot of the mast, & the wire portion short enough that there is close to 18" between the two blocks.
    If you were thinking of ditching the wire halyard, it is simple to just tie the new line where you need it. When going to roller furling, I changed the wire to Spyderline.
    The only caveat about shortening the wire line is it needs to be long enough so the shackle that attaches to the jib head does not end up to high. Otherwise you will need a ladder to stand on in order to attach the jib to the shackle.



    Edited by Edchris177 on Jul 30, 2013 - 05:09 PM.

    --
    Hobie 18 Magnum
    Dart 15
    Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
    Nacra 5.7
    Nacra 5.0
    Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
    Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
    --
  • Pic 38 is it.
    Edchris, your assumptions sound accurate, it just appears that the jib halyard to too long, great points though nice to have a second and third opinion of things to look for. I'll pretty much be doing what you said and shortening it at the marine supply store, ~6".
    For the weather helm, I moved the shrouds up a hole and we will move the forestay down tighter, that should help with that.

    --
    Cesar (Cez) S.
    Hobie 16 (had a few)
    Nacra 5.2 "Hull Yeah"
    Vectorworks XJ - A class (not named yet)
    West Michigan (Grand Rapids/Holland Area)
    --
  • even though your side stay adjustments may be in order ... your jib being non-optimally rigged could effect helm as well.... fixing the jib halyard may fix (or reduce) the helm issue too...

    you MAY wish to do only 1 change at a time to isolate the correct action and not over correct another issue

    QuoteFor the weather helm, I moved the shrouds up a hole and we will move the forestay down tighter, that should help with that.




    Edited by MN3 on Aug 01, 2013 - 09:37 AM.

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