I have seen people mention it and I have also seen websites that at one time offered it, but now it's "out of stock". Does anyone know if these are still being produced or do I have to settle for another POS with plastic rollers?
I just hate replacing an inferior part with another inferior one, even though the rest of the boat probably wouldn't outlast the plastic rollers at this point.
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Vince
Houston, TX
1982 prindle 16 - became a parts boat shortly after purchase. "The Crackling Hullflyer"
1984 prindle 16 - current boat "Blew By You"
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Prindle Traveler car with stainless steel rollers???
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Posted: Aug 26, 2013 - 01:37 PM
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Posted: Aug 26, 2013 - 01:54 PM
Looks to me like Murrays has them.
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Rob Jones
1976 Yellow p-16 - parts is parts - hulls cut up
1978 Yellow p-16 - in good working order
1979 White p-15 - parts is parts - hulls cut up
1985 White p-15 - good working order
1982 White NACRA 5.8 - project boat.
1986 White p-16 - in good working order
1975 White Hobie 3.5 - PM me if you want it
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Posted: Aug 26, 2013 - 01:54 PM
oppps - maybe that's a plastic roller one.
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Rob Jones
1976 Yellow p-16 - parts is parts - hulls cut up
1978 Yellow p-16 - in good working order
1979 White p-15 - parts is parts - hulls cut up
1985 White p-15 - good working order
1982 White NACRA 5.8 - project boat.
1986 White p-16 - in good working order
1975 White Hobie 3.5 - PM me if you want it
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Posted: Aug 26, 2013 - 02:20 PM
These guys used to make the Prindle traveler cars.
Contact them and see if they still can.
http://garhauermarine.com/catalog.cfm
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Sheet In!
Bob
_/)_____/)_/)____/)____/)_____/)/)__________/)__
Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
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Posted: Aug 26, 2013 - 02:47 PM
Murrays has 17 in stock---56-3010 $80. Pete -
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Posted: Aug 27, 2013 - 06:10 AM
the ones murray's offers online says that it has plastic rollers
I contacted the link that klozhald sent and am awaiting a response
Edited by vinnyvincent on Aug 27, 2013 - 06:11 AM.
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Vince
Houston, TX
1982 prindle 16 - became a parts boat shortly after purchase. "The Crackling Hullflyer"
1984 prindle 16 - current boat "Blew By You"
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Posted: Aug 27, 2013 - 09:46 AM
Talked to Murrays this morning and rollers are plastic (they can't get steel), but black plastic with a little more carbon in them. Pete -
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Posted: Aug 27, 2013 - 10:53 AM
you really don't want steel running up and down that aluminum travelor..it will grind it. the plastic will take the abuse instead of the crossbeam. and this will likely be the last time you replace this part even if it is plastic or steel.
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bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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Posted: Aug 27, 2013 - 11:02 AM
We'll jeez they are charging the same price as they were for the stainless ones. That alone makes me not want to buy that item from them.
Thanks you for calling them. I am wondering if I just sand down my track and spray some silicone on the track and rollers if that will work for a while. They aren't worn to the point of falling off or anything. I just notice my traveler doesn't want to...well, travel. There are small burrs along the tracks and the rollers are a little chipped/worn down to the point that it wobbles. It just seems like a lot of work drilling out and replacing all those stainless rivets and removing the crossbar bolts, just to slap another piece of junk on there.
Sometimes I have to push or even kick it over. I've capsized a few times while tacking in heavy air because the main sail got stuck on the windward side and I couldn't push it over in time.
Has anyone ever done something like rivet a Harken traveler track onto their crossbar as an upgrade? It seems do-able....I would bet it works a lot better than the factory traveler.
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Vince
Houston, TX
1982 prindle 16 - became a parts boat shortly after purchase. "The Crackling Hullflyer"
1984 prindle 16 - current boat "Blew By You"
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Posted: Aug 27, 2013 - 11:22 AM
Have you replaced one before? I am wondering how much of a difference it would make. 80 bucks is a lot of money for that part. I like the H18's where you can just replace the rollers.
is it supposed to have play in it? you can take mine a wiggle it around very easily. I am wondering if replacing it would make a significant difference or if I should just try and make mine work.
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Vince
Houston, TX
1982 prindle 16 - became a parts boat shortly after purchase. "The Crackling Hullflyer"
1984 prindle 16 - current boat "Blew By You"
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Posted: Aug 27, 2013 - 12:16 PM
have you tried lubricating the track and the rollers?
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Rob Jones
1976 Yellow p-16 - parts is parts - hulls cut up
1978 Yellow p-16 - in good working order
1979 White p-15 - parts is parts - hulls cut up
1985 White p-15 - good working order
1982 White NACRA 5.8 - project boat.
1986 White p-16 - in good working order
1975 White Hobie 3.5 - PM me if you want it
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Posted: Aug 27, 2013 - 12:23 PM
mine is worn pretty bad...I keep it lubed with silicone and it works fine. a new one would work a little better but it's not an issue enough to warrant buying one yet. the biggest upgrade to a p16 is balancing the helm and getting the rudders right.
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bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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Posted: Aug 27, 2013 - 12:34 PM
I think I'm just going to try that and see how it works for now. I'm already way over budget with this thing. I may take some fine grit sandpaper to the track itself because it has some visible burrs and dings in it. I'm thinking that will also smoothen things up a little. I am also considering using a second, smaller diameter line for the traveler instead of the tail end of the mainsheet.
It's really the last issue I'm having with getting this thing into good functioning condition. I'm happy with the current helm and rudder lock down tension. I was having major delamination issues. I ended up just biting the bullet and buying another P-16 that was in great shape. Now I have a bunch of spare parts. Maybe I'll try injecting the other one while it's just sitting there.
It's turning out to be a nice little boat. even my die hard hobie friend admitted that it's super clean and he likes it. the only thing he could find to complain about was the traveler.
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Vince
Houston, TX
1982 prindle 16 - became a parts boat shortly after purchase. "The Crackling Hullflyer"
1984 prindle 16 - current boat "Blew By You"
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Posted: Aug 27, 2013 - 04:23 PM
I grew up a hobie 14,16,18 guy...had a 16 up until hurricane Katrina and was working on another project h16 when I bought my p16. always thought the prindles looked goofy and didn't see that many as a kid. didn't take long to love the boat...simple, well engineered, tuff, heavy air boat. you can load them up and abuse them, they can take it. on and off the trailor in a snap. I just invested in mine with a new surise tramp and fresh set of sails from whirlwind...it's a brand new boat and if I tear off a hull, i'll bolt another on. not scared to inject the k-rapp out of the suckers either! yeah man, slick out the travelor and lube it up and sail it like you stole it!
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bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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Posted: Aug 27, 2013 - 04:31 PM
oh yeah, a smaller diameter line for the travelor helps too...you can tie it to the end of the main sheet if you like
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bill harris
hattiesburg, mississippi
prindle 16- "BLUE RIBBON"
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Posted: Aug 27, 2013 - 07:09 PM
[quote=coastrat]
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Rob Jones
1976 Yellow p-16 - parts is parts - hulls cut up
1978 Yellow p-16 - in good working order
1979 White p-15 - parts is parts - hulls cut up
1985 White p-15 - good working order
1982 White NACRA 5.8 - project boat.
1986 White p-16 - in good working order
1975 White Hobie 3.5 - PM me if you want it
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Posted: Aug 28, 2013 - 03:46 PM
Your Prindle originally came with a 7/16" dacron main sheet. If that is what you still have, then a smaller diameter traveler line would be a good idea, and was offered as an option by most dealers.
Ten feet of 5/16" line will allow for a stopper knot at one end and a double figure eight, or knot of your preference, with the main sheet to keep them as one line.
This gives you a bit more line on the deck, so you should run a bungee from the dolphin striker post under the tramp to the grommet in the center of your tramp with a loop in the bungee that stays on the top of the tramp. While you are rigging and before you tie the two lines together, run the mainsheet through the loop in the end of the bungee and then tie the mainsheet to the traveler. The bungee will keep the bulk of the mainsheet on the tramp so that it won't slide off the deck into the water as often.
Edited by klozhald on Aug 28, 2013 - 03:51 PM.
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Bob
_/)_____/)_/)____/)____/)_____/)/)__________/)__
Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
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Posted: Aug 28, 2013 - 05:31 PM
That sounds like a good idea! I keep dropping line into the water out on the wire...
THANK YOU!
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Rob Jones
1976 Yellow p-16 - parts is parts - hulls cut up
1978 Yellow p-16 - in good working order
1979 White p-15 - parts is parts - hulls cut up
1985 White p-15 - good working order
1982 White NACRA 5.8 - project boat.
1986 White p-16 - in good working order
1975 White Hobie 3.5 - PM me if you want it
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Posted: Aug 29, 2013 - 09:36 AM
The track has been sanded and lubed. Won't be able to test it until next weekend, though.
I am thinking of using a MUCH smaller line for the traveler. It's hard to cleat it while under load. I'm thinking about getting some 3/16" dyneema(About as strong as 3/8" dacron) and tying that to the end of the main sheet for handling. It has 4900 lbs breaking strength and I'm thinking it will cleat/un cleat a lot easier and reduce friction where it wraps around the traveler.
stopper knot for such a small line??? I'm thinking a monkeys fist
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Vince
Houston, TX
1982 prindle 16 - became a parts boat shortly after purchase. "The Crackling Hullflyer"
1984 prindle 16 - current boat "Blew By You"
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Posted: Aug 29, 2013 - 10:25 AM
If you use a synthetic line for the traveler, make sure it has a durable cover. Otherwise you will eat up the line in a season. On most boats sailed hard, the traveler line gets the most wear.
A monkey's fist would be fun. On line that diameter you'd want a three strand one, as a two would be unstable under the kind of load the traveler would put upon it. I'd be tempted to use a half grapevine.
Edited by klozhald on Aug 29, 2013 - 03:08 PM.
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Sheet In!
Bob
_/)_____/)_/)____/)____/)_____/)/)__________/)__
Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
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