The holes that hold the plastic sleeves on my Nacra 500 rudder are worn out and oversized. Is there a common way of repairing them back into right size? I was thinking one could use thickened epoxy as filler and then dremel them to fit the plastic sleeves snugly. Or maybe even glass a couple layers of glass fibre into the hole and then dremel them.
Also as you see the rearmost hole has allmost broken through the back. I was thinking of sanding the gelcoat away from that area around the hole, fill the broken part and glass over the area to make it stronger. Any thoughts on this? Has this part been made intentionally weak, as the edge could be much further away from the hole without hitting the rudderbar casting?
-CH-
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Christian Kurkio
Nacra 500
Inter 20 (sold)
Pori, Finland, Europe
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Rudder sleeve hole oversized and allmost broken, how to fix?
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If it was me, I'd grind out any questionable material and then fill it with glass filled polyester resin and then re-drill it.
An alternative would be to get a fiberglass or carbon tube with an inner diameter close to your bolt diameter. Cut a bit longer than the thickness of the rudder, then glass that in and then sand/fair.
Use Polyester resin if ever plan to gelcoat it. I've heard that gelcoat doesn't like to bond as tightly to epoxy.
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Jeff R
'88 H18 "Jolly Mon"
'10 C2 USA1193
NE IN / SE MI
cramsailing.com
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Chopped fiberglass is even harder than hi density filler. I'd mix up epoxy with both added, fill the holes, let dry, and re drill. Additional glass cloth where needed.
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Its a common problem with older Nacra rudders. A west system repair pack will do the trick. Chop up some glass fibers and mix it with the resin. Fill the holes, let it set and redrill, as everyone else said.
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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+1
That is exactly what I did to my 5.7 rudder. My damage was worse, the edge had split along with tearing out the hole.
The interior is foam like material. Pretend you're a dentist & dremel it out a bit, make the cavity a reverse "V", so the new material won't work loose or fall out. I jammed it full of chopped strands, then poured resin in & worked it with a thin blade to saturate the strands. I happened to have a plastic tube the same diameter, so I placed that in the hole, then twisted it out after the resin was green.
I sanded it all to a bit less than required, then finished with a layer of cloth. Use Saran wrap to make it conform exactly to the contour required.
I never bothered with gelcote...that boat is 30 yrs old now, needs a few age marks.
I'll take a photo of it next week & post.
Edited by Edchris177 on Nov 22, 2013 - 05:07 AM.
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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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Just looking at your photo again. To form that flat edge, cut a strip from a juice jug & fold it around the curve. Then wrap a bit of plastic sheet or Saran wrap taped in place.
Obviously, have everything pre cut & bits of tape ready, especially if working alone.
To fix the fine,(trailing) edge, or thin section near the tip, don't try to wrap cloth around. Lay material on one side, & fold it slightly downwards at the trailing edge. Let it set to "green" stage. Flip the board & lay similar material on the other side. Gravity will keep this layer against the first. Once it cures you can trim with jig saw & sand fair.
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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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