i read that you should never run tie down straps over the hulls ,so whats the best way to keep a hobie 16 on the trailer ?
my hobie arrived a long time ago with two big tie down straps across the hulls
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tying down a cat ?
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Not true, in all the years I've been sailing I have always used tie-down straps on all my cats, but I do not speak for all sailors and here's why:-
1st boat - H14T,
2nd boat - H16,
3rd boat - Prindle 18,
4th boat - GCat 5.0,
current boat - Prindle 16.
All these boats are older boats and all are boardless, they have asymmetrical shaped hulls. Basic engineering dictates that the "V" shape of the asymmetrical hull is much stronger than the "U" shape of the symmetrical hull and I use 4 tie-down straps, 1 on each corner, I've even used ratchet-straps. But other factors also come into play, do you have rollers or cradles, if you have rollers do you have a single roller or a double roller, once again basic engineering, spread the load over more area, a single roller creates a huge pressure point.
Keep in mind that up untill the early 80's, the Hobie company was owned by Hobie and constructed their Hobie cats much stronger, more fiberglass and cloth in the lay-up, when they were bought out by AMC and later by Coleman, those companies cut costs by cutting back on the amount of material used in lay-up, made for a lighter boat but less durable, my H16 was a '79 boat and was built like a tank. Newer boats are all about weight and are much lighter but again, more fragile, some racers have trailers that support the cat at the cross-beams and not the hulls.
Many members of this forum are engineers and pilots and I'm sure they will agree that it all comes down to common sense, personal choice, and your budget.
Hope This Helps
Renovator -
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On my old Nacra 5.2 (moderately fragile hulls) I used a turnbuckle that hooked to the dolphin striker to hold the boat down. I had another one towards the back that hooked to the rear beam. This allowed me to trailer without the straps, but I would guess that I probably had the same amount of stress on the hulls. I did this more for aesthetics and to keep the straps from flapping and vibrating in the wind while trailering. I never trailered far and had to wire the turnbuckles to keep them from loosening up on the road. I agree that common sense should prevail and as long as you are not crushing the hulls, straps across the hulls should work fine.
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Rob V.
Panama City, FL
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On my P16 and P18-2 I have used a big strap on the rear and two on each hull forward.
Using one big one forward can be OK unless you get it tight and then it squeezes the hulls together the whole time you have them on, which is not good.
Throw this book/article/advise out.
Edited by klozhald on Dec 21, 2013 - 11:37 AM.
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Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
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Arizona, USA
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Best way to tide down H16 is by pylons.
There was a good discussion on the topic on Hobie site:
http://www.hobiecat.com/f…ewtopic.php?f=14&t=13831
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Jack B
Hobie 17
BC, Canada
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To prevent vibration from wind, make your strap like a mobius strip, ie don't leave it "flat". Put a half twist, or even a full twist in the section that is free & exposed to the wind. That simple trick will completely eliminate the vibes.
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i used to cut up strips of camping foam and put it under the straps to help spread the load, and in case of an emergency stop while trailing, would have a little "give" (to prevent straps from the hulls digging in / cracking)
I now use high modulus line in a few places and dont use tie down straps (they all rust and break over time)
PS i would never again tie my boat up (or down) via a dolphin striker ... these are pretty light weight and NOT meant to have any load except from the top down... i would imagine it doesn't take more than a few mph of inertia (quick stop or accident ) to rip off this part from your boat. -
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Off topic but when did AMC own hobie?
I dont have a trailer but I would tie it to the pylons on my hobie 16 -
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The best way to tie a Hobie 14 or 16 to the trailer is by connecting the straps to the pylons as shown in the pic by JackB. On my 17 & 18, I do something similar but just wrap the lines around the front and rear crossbars between the inboard side of the hull and the edge of the trampoline. I find this to be a very secure tie down method because with four individual points of contact, you can essentially lock the boat in position on the trailer by pulling in opposite directions at each of the corners. The next best method IMO, would be to run two long tiedowns fore & aft over the crossbars and down to the trailer frame. The worst way to tie the boat down is by running straps across the hulls. If you over-tighten the straps, you can damage the hulls, or at the very least, you will cause unnecessary wear on the hulls where the straps rub against the gelcoat. Also, when you run the straps across the hulls, the buckles have a tendency to loosen up as they bounce and/or the straps vibrate.
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I just use a couple straps for travel but for winter storage, (outside) I just run the winch line under a trailer cross member and tie it to the dolphin striker or around the front frame rail. Just my $.02
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Mike Conway
H16
Hilton, NY
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I use 4 straps running over the main and aft beam and under a trailer crossmember.
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AB
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Correction/Retraction:-
A quick search shows that HobieCat was never bought by AMC, just goes to show one should always verify hearsay!
This is one of the most important pieces of info for the use of straps to prevent the straps from "humming", good catch Edchris!
I cannot over empathize this point, NEVER, NEVER use the dolphin striker rod as an attachment point, and please don't ask me how I know!
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I like the retractable straps that attach to the trailer frame. They are always there,untangled, and ready to go. If you step the mast while the boat is on the trailer you can stay strapped down until just prior to launch. I use the front straps to tension the trap wires when stepping. I turn the straps around the crossbars on my SC15
http://www.etrailer.com/Cargo-Tie-Downs,Trailer-Cargo-Control/Erickson/EM34417.html?feed=npn&gclid=CK_H27XFy7sCFYNxOgod0F8Alw
Edited by gahamby on Dec 25, 2013 - 07:03 AM.
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'82 Super Cat 15
Hull #315
Virginia
Previously owned: '70 H14, '79 H16, '68 Sailmaster 26, '85 H14T
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this is all you need -
should be noted that you have to tie the slippery 1/2 hitch the correct way, if you invert it it will cinch down on itself... it just takes a little practice
this is one of the most valuable knots i have ever learned and i use it in lots of ways
Edited by MN3 on Dec 25, 2013 - 07:22 AM. -
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+1
This tie gives you a mechanical advantage, is useful in nearly any tie down situation, & if used with a line that stretches, will have some "give" & rebound.
My brother had quarter horses on his place in the foothills of the Rockies. One was trained as a pack horse, & this tie was used in combination with a diamond hitch to secure loads to the horse. Inevitable the loads "pack down" after the first mile of jostling & needed a snug up. These are easy to retighten.
The only change we make from the above photo is in the last sequence. Instead of what is shown, run the free end back down through the loop,(or whatever you have tied to), make two wraps around the two standing lines, then finish with a couple of half hitches. This prevents any jamming of the knot, especially if used with thin or "sticky" line.
Edited by Edchris177 on Dec 25, 2013 - 10:43 AM.
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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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i finish with a rolling hitch which will not loosen unless you slide it up
a rolling hitch is simply a 1/2 hitch with 2 passes through the first hitch, and one 1/2 after it
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A great knot. I've been using it backstage, in trucks, and on board for years. I still love the retractable straps.
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'82 Super Cat 15
Hull #315
Virginia
Previously owned: '70 H14, '79 H16, '68 Sailmaster 26, '85 H14T
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i live and sail on the gulf
they don't last in the salt air around here