I am getting a recently purchased Nacra 5.5 SL ready for the water, working on it at home. Running rigging for the jib was a little confusing even though I had the Nacra 5.2 - 5.5 Assembly Manual (thanks, Damon). When hoisted, the clew of the jib actually extends about 18” past the front of the mast. I’ve noticed when moving the jib from one side to the other that the clew (and its assorted lines) gets hung up with a block, cleat and eye strap on the front of the mast. I’ve figured out most of the other components on the mast, but to be brutally honest, I have no idea what these three are for. I uploaded a picture but the top and bottom were cut off, so I hope I have described the problem adequately.
Any ideas on how to prevent the lines from entangling with these components?
Thanks,
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Bill
Nacra 5.5 SL
Redondo Beach, CA
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Jib lines hang up on mast
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Posted: Jan 14, 2014 - 06:03 PM
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Posted: Jan 14, 2014 - 06:14 PM
Here's a picture.
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Bill
Nacra 5.5 SL
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Posted: Jan 14, 2014 - 06:20 PM
If your talking about a horn cleat, it should not be there. The cleats on a 5.5SL mast are 1 clam cleat for the jib and the the downhaul cleats on the swivels. There could be another pair of clam cleats depending on how the downhaul is setup. The block should be part of the jib halyard/downhaul and on the port side with the clam cleat. I have know idea why the eye strap is there, not stock along with the horn cleat.
Sold my 5.5 SL four years ago, great boat, sailed and raced it for 12 years.
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Nacra F18
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Posted: Jan 14, 2014 - 06:25 PM
If you run a bungee from the bridle wire to the back side of the diamond wire around the front of the mast, back behind the diamond wire, then back to the bridle wire on the other side, it will help keep the jib sheets from hanging up on the mast rotater.
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Posted: Jan 14, 2014 - 07:00 PM
Ok, the pic was not there when I wrote the first two, the clam cleat and block are for the jib halyard/downhaul rigged 3 to 1. The jib halyard comes down the mast, thru the block, back up to a block on the wire part of the halyard then down tru the clam cleat. Tie a stopper knot, Figure Eight, so that if your adjusting the tension while sailing, it doesn't come all the way out and the jib come down.
The eye strap is probably for the jam presenter I described above but going thru the eye, not around the diamond wires.
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Ron
Nacra F18
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Posted: Jan 14, 2014 - 09:07 PM
Ron, thanks for clarifying the routing of the jib halyard. I had it routed differently, but it seemed to work. But I still don't know if that will prevent the lines controlling the clew of the jib from fouling on the aforementioned parts.
Thanks
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Bill
Nacra 5.5 SL
Redondo Beach, CA
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Posted: Jan 14, 2014 - 09:50 PM
The clew of your Jib should have a pig tail with 18-20 inches on either side with a single block the size of the block in your pic of the mast. The only hang ups I ever had was in very light air or forgetting to rig the jam perverter to keep the jib sheets from wrapping around the rotater. Should not be a big deal.
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Ron
Nacra F18
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Posted: Jan 14, 2014 - 11:11 PM
Roger that.
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Bill
Nacra 5.5 SL
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Posted: Jan 15, 2014 - 04:03 PM
The bungee that Ron mentioned will keep the jib and it's block away from the mast. Run it in an A shape from the dolphin striker support a couple of feet to one side of the mast, then up through both sides of the diamond wires then down to the other side of the dolphin striker support.
Don't have a good picture of this handy so maybe you can take one after you do it.
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Posted: Jan 15, 2014 - 04:23 PM
Dang Skipper, what are you spreading on your peanut butter?
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Posted: Jan 15, 2014 - 05:50 PM
Damon, Ron, I tried it and it works! I will post a picture tomorrow as the sun is just going down now. Thanks, guys.
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Bill
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Posted: Jan 15, 2014 - 06:35 PM
here is a photo of the mast on a nacra5.8 which shows the jib halyard blocks and the bungee to prevent the jib sheets from hanging on the mast.
http://www.flickr.com/pho…in/set-72157631504676528
j
Edited by arch on Jan 16, 2014 - 09:32 AM.
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Posted: Jan 16, 2014 - 03:54 PM
Here is how I temporarily rigged the bungee and it seems to work just fine. The jib moves from one side to the other with little problem.
Thanks,
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Bill
Nacra 5.5 SL
Redondo Beach, CA
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Posted: Jan 16, 2014 - 04:32 PM
That looks good, actually looks like that eye-strap was added just for that purpose.
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Damon Linkous
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Posted: Jan 16, 2014 - 07:58 PM
Bill, that is exactly how we rig the preventer on both the 5.7 & the 5.0. The eye strap is up higher though, & we also use it to hold the main halyard while sailing.
Dead end about a 9" piece of bungee,(or whatever you need) under that eye via a stopper knot. Attach a plastic bungee hook to the other end. Once you raise the main, & hook it, clip the plastic hook to the end of the wire portion of the main halyard, then stow the rest of the halyard in the pouch. The hook will prevent the wire end from flopping around.
Did you get BOTH manuals from Damon? There are 2 Nacra manuals, mostly the same, but the newer one has some better photos. Rigging the jib is ITEM 60 & 61. That explains how to rig it if you have a 2:1, or the 3:1 system.
How I read Ron's description seems like you run the entire jib line through the block,(sorry if I mis interpret this). On my 5.7 I tie the line portion of jib halyard to the becket hanging on the wire portion, BUT, leave a tail of appx 2' when you tie. Once jib is raised, you thread the 2' tail as Ron described, & cleat it. This is simpler than feeding the entire jib line through the block. Now stow the main portion in the tramp pocket.
Just looked at Arch' Flikr photo...it shows the setup, just modify it via the 2' tail where he ties to the becket. Also notice the empty eye strap at the top of the photo. You can run your preventer & piece of bungee I wrote about above through that fitting.
Edited by Edchris177 on Jan 16, 2014 - 08:02 PM.
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Posted: Jan 17, 2014 - 06:37 AM
I made my pigtails from 1/8" dyneema, with slippery eyes in both ends and a double brummel in the middle. Here are pictures:http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=96203
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Posted: Jan 17, 2014 - 11:00 AM
Edchris, I’m a newbie so forgive my responses if they sound naive.
I don’t have a wire on my main halyard. I have one on the jib, but not the main.
I thought I had downloaded both of Damon’s manuals, but I only got the Nacra 5.2 - 5.5 Assembly Manual, not the Nacra Printed General Assembly Manual. The one I got is very helpful.
When I clicked on Arch’s photo when he posted above, it wouldn’t open, but now it does and it tells me a lot. Thanks Arch. I can see that he is using the diamond spreader to route the bungee jib preventer. It also shows how to route the downhaul.
Thank you,
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Bill
Nacra 5.5 SL
Redondo Beach, CA
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Posted: Jan 17, 2014 - 03:04 PM
The 5.5 halyard is all line, no wire.
The jib halyard is part wire and the line portion is 2 pieces.
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Ron
Nacra F18
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Brandon, Mississippi
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Posted: Jan 18, 2014 - 07:59 AM
Thanks, didn't know the 5.5 was different.
2 pieces, as in using sister clips? That would eliminate the need to string a long line through the block.
Bill here are the links to both manuals. They are on the page 5 of ALBUMS, Tech Help. It shows 1 icon, but when you click it there are 2 manuals. There used to be an ADOBE icon that allowed you to download the entire manual, vs the individual page scans. Don't see it now, maybe ask Damon.
http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=35212
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Posted: Jan 18, 2014 - 09:46 AM
I see a carabiner in the middle of the white/red line on the picture. If you use it to attach to the jib, sooner or later you will find the black bungee or something else inside inside the carabiner after a tack. Also, at some point you will start simplifying the rigging everywhere possible. I think that it is a good idea for that objective, to be able to quickly split the bridle (white/red) between the two blocks, not untying but with sister clips. That is assuming that you have a continuous jib sheet. I always remove the running rigging from the boat. For the jib, I just detach the two sheet blocks (the aft ones) with quick release shackles and take everything out. To attach the bridle to the jib, the sister clips are pretty quick too. In my case the bridle is short, both blocks very close to each other, the secret to be able to use sister clips ther is not to think of a line between the two blocks, but a loop, that is closed by te sister clips. The only problem is that the sister clips are likely too big to go through the blocks, i just tied a little loop to the block and go through that loop. I use a much thinner rope than yours, maybe 3mm.
Edited by Andinista on Jan 18, 2014 - 09:53 AM.
