Jib lines hang up on mast
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Posted: Jan 18, 2014 - 10:05 AM
The 5.8 and 6.0 are also all line main halyards.
You could use sister clips, but I never did. Just tie the ends together with a sheet bend.
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Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
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Posted: Jan 18, 2014 - 10:08 AM
Edchris, I downloaded the one album I didn't have, the Nacra Printed General Assembly Manual. Thanks.
Andinista, The carabiner that attaches to the jib clew is what came with the boat. I just got it last month, so I'm still learning how it all goes together. Good point about bungee transfer on the carabiner. I'll keep an eye on it.
Regarding simplifying rigging: I am a BIG fan of that and have taken steps in that direction. Per the manual, the jib can be rigged one of two ways: the standard jib system where the jib block is attached to the pad eye on the side jib track OR the Deluxe 4 Way Jib System. I chose the former to keep the clutter down. I am not going to race and, since I will single hand most of the time, I want to keep the number of lines to a minimum.
Thanks guys. Great help on the forum.
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Bill
Nacra 5.5 SL
Redondo Beach, CA
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Posted: Jan 18, 2014 - 12:03 PM
In my opinion it's too far out, you don't need the 4 way system, just a fixed line from side to side, with one or more loops per side to attach the blocks. You need an unstretchable line, well tightened. Somewhere between the hull and the footstrap. More about this on the "n5.0 jib position" thread. -
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Posted: Jan 18, 2014 - 02:30 PM
It's not if you race or not, it's do you want to point upwind or not. Having them all the way at the hull would be like sailing a H16 with the jib traveler all the way out on all points of sail. Jib blocks at the hull are way far out. They should be 6 to 8 inches out from the tramp sock (tramp material that covers the 4-way cable in the center of the boat) for upwind in light air. That's the starting point, then work your way out.
The barberhauler is what's used to get the jib leads out and trim for down wind, not the 4 way.
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Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
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Posted: Jan 18, 2014 - 07:27 PM
Ron, here is how my jib lines are laid out.
I don't know why the picture is fuzzy, but I've used four different pictures and they all come out fuzzy. I'm not going to hassle with it now. I've hooked up the jib this way in my driveway and tried moving the jib back and forth. There is a separate line that runs along the front crossbeam that allows you to pull either sheet towards the hull or can be relaxed to allow the jib to stay close to the mast. Is this incorrect? You guys know way more than I do.
Andinista, your version, although different, seems to mimic what Ron is saying.
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Bill
Nacra 5.5 SL
Redondo Beach, CA
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Posted: Jan 18, 2014 - 08:01 PM
Here is a better picture. I think I found out why the others were fuzzy.
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Bill
Nacra 5.5 SL
Redondo Beach, CA
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Posted: Jan 18, 2014 - 08:27 PM
The track on the hull is used to get the flow of air working the same in the top and bottom of the sail.
Moving it forward loosens the foot and tightens the leach.
Moving it back tightens the foot and loosens the leach.
Start in the middle and find where the top and bottom of the sail work together.
Set and forget unless in extreme conditions.
The line on the main beam is the barber hauler. Not tensioned unless being used.
Used off wind, reaching or downwind.
Pulling the line, brings the clew out and forward putting curve in the sail and tightening the leach.
Fall off the wind and get your tale tails flowing. If the tail tails are not working together, adjust the tension on the barber hauler to get the top and bottom tails working together. Then set the main.
Yes, Andinista and I are saying the same thing about the upwind position of the jib block.
Get a copy of Rick White's Catamaran Racing for the Nineties.
http://www.amazon.com/Cat…Rick-White/dp/1880871009
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Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
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Posted: Jan 18, 2014 - 11:43 PM
Thanks for the info, Ron. I'll give it a try.
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Bill
Nacra 5.5 SL
Redondo Beach, CA
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Posted: Jan 19, 2014 - 05:24 AM
The barber hauler is less necessary than the 4-way system, or a simplified version of it. I don't have a barber hauler myself, I don't race and don't sail long distances so I think I won't bother adding one. I installed blocks for the mast rotator and almost never use them either.. (I'm lazy).. Your boat looks good. -
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Posted: Jan 19, 2014 - 05:00 PM
Ron, Andinista, I laid out the lines a little closer to what I think you were describing. Does this look OK?
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Bill
Nacra 5.5 SL
Redondo Beach, CA
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Posted: Jan 19, 2014 - 05:37 PM
Looks good! Good luck now! -
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Posted: Jan 20, 2014 - 07:32 PM
Better. Where's the righting line?
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Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
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Posted: Jan 20, 2014 - 11:59 PM
The boat will be moved to the marina later this week, but before it ever sees the water, there are a few more lines that need to be added. One is a righting line and another would be a line that has a "stirrup" on the end to help get back on board after a capsize.
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Bill
Nacra 5.5 SL
Redondo Beach, CA
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Posted: May 30, 2017 - 10:44 AM
All
Revisiting this original thread.
For some reason, I cannot see the images anywhere in this thread. Looking for image(s) of the bungee setup to keep jib lines from hanging up on mast, mast base, etc...
Thanks
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Supercat 15
Windrider 17
Several Sunfish and Sunfish clones
Ratboat built from Zuma and Sunfish parts
Shallow water sailor in the Delaware Bay
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Posted: May 30, 2017 - 11:19 AM
Two ways to do it. Here are a couple of pics. Blue bungee line.
https://www.thebeachcats.…77b31c7ddf1e7fc4b49cf252
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Philip
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Posted: May 30, 2017 - 11:35 AM
Awesome
Thanks for the quick and complete response
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Supercat 15
Windrider 17
Several Sunfish and Sunfish clones
Ratboat built from Zuma and Sunfish parts
Shallow water sailor in the Delaware Bay
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Posted: Jun 02, 2017 - 02:24 PM
Use a 7 foot bungee, 3/8" or 1/4"
Wrap the center of the bungee around the mast above the diamond stays or boom gooseneck, then cross the bungee in front of the mast and tie the ends on the dolphin stryker and slide outward as much as possible. If no dolphin stryker, tie to the ends of the front crossbar keeping the bungee in front of the crossbar as much as possible.
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