Recently acquired a Nacra 5.0 and I am inquiring the proper way to set or place the jib sheet blocks. The blocks that came with the cat were mounted on the front beam midway between the mast and the hull. I have also seen the jib set up on a jib track adjacent to the tramp on the hulls. I have also seen what appeared to be a modified setup similar to the 5.2 setup. What would be the best setup for this cat. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Kevin
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Kevin
Wantanacra
VA Beach, VA
Nacra 5.0
Nacra 5.2
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Nacra 5.0 Jib Block Placement
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Posted: Jan 16, 2014 - 06:43 PM
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Posted: Jan 18, 2014 - 12:42 AM
Whether on the beam or further aft, it depends exlusively on the jib you have, I don't think you can make that choice for the same jib. The N500 is set up on the beam and the 5.0 on the hulls. I don't know if there are late N5.0s set up on the beam, or it could have been modified by the previous owner. Or maybe what you have on the beam was meant for something else. What I found on my 5.0 is that direclty on the hulls is too far out. In my case I used a simplified version of the adjustment system you mention. Just a line from side to side with a little loop on eqch side to mount the blocks and a quick shacke on the blocks for easy removal. At first I had more than one positions to choose but i kept just one at the end, pretty close to the foot strap. I didn't have a track on each hull but just an eyestrap. I didn't find it necessary to adjust either. If you need to fine tune the fore/aft position you can acheive similar results by setting the jib higher or lower on the stay.
Edited by Andinista on Jan 18, 2014 - 12:46 AM. -
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Posted: Jan 18, 2014 - 12:55 AM
Now i have a N5.5 and i made an adjustable system than works well. I rarely adjust it though:
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Posted: Jan 18, 2014 - 05:44 AM
Thanks for the help. Once I get my new stays I will set up the mast and then look at the jib and where the block placement looks best. Thanks again. Kevin
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Kevin
Wantanacra
VA Beach, VA
Nacra 5.0
Nacra 5.2
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Posted: Jan 18, 2014 - 07:32 AM
In the right spot you should see the leech and the foot tensioned equally, or close, not one tight and the other loose. If your case is not the beam, the eyestrap is probably there on the hull. You still can live without an adjustable system. You won't point as high, but it will sail well anyway.
Be careful when raising and lowering the mast. It is too easy to bend the rod if you force things the wrong way. Or dent the beam if something gets in between, like mast rotator or the pin itself if it was replaced by a longer one. I've seen that kind of things very often, like the day i purchased my current boat...
Aother dangerous mistake is to attach the side stay to the jib eyestrap. I know it sounds too stupid but i saw that twice .. One of which i did it myself! It is possible to be that distracted, so i decided that day to leave the stay adjusters always on the hulls. -
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Posted: Jan 18, 2014 - 07:49 AM
What year is your 5.0? Up until at least 1988, the 5.0 came with blocks mounted on a fixed point on the hull.
They did not have the track, as do the 5.7's, & some other models. The newer boats, designated 500 & 570 use blocks on the beam & blade jibs.
If you have an original jib, it is quite large, & will not work with blocks mounted on the forward beam. Perhaps the PO changed to a blade jib?
I have dimensions for the 3 5.0 jibs I have...can't find the file right now, I'll post them when I find it.
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Posted: Jan 18, 2014 - 09:59 AM
The boat is an 1982. The jib is not original but I will be acquiring an original main and jib in excellent condition shortly. The eye straps are still located on the hulls, so I assume the PO changed to the smaller jib and then mounted the blocks on the front beam.
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Kevin
Wantanacra
VA Beach, VA
Nacra 5.0
Nacra 5.2
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Posted: Jan 18, 2014 - 10:39 AM
When you move the blocks back to the hulls, spend $3 & buy 2 Harken Stand Up springs. They will keep the blocks from banging on the tramp track/hull.
It is easier to install them with 2 people, (a third hand is useful when trying to compress the spring, line everything up, & get the shackle pin in), but you will figure it out solo if need be. You don't have to remove the blocks each time, just undo the pigtail at the clew.
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Posted: Jan 21, 2014 - 11:17 PM
My Nacra 5.0 is 1991 and has the same set up. Nacra 500 had jib tracks in oval beams but don't know when they start making them. I am wondering if N500 jib is also smaller then n5.0 or the bridal attachment was moved towards the tip of the bows to compensate.
Did you have a chance to find those jib's dimensions?
Unfortunately that is the problem on my cat. The jib's foot is tight and the leech loose, which makes jib's shape more like a spin then like a wing. The only adjustment that I can possibly make is to move a tack to the top of adjuster plate (currently the tack is right above roller furler) but not sure what difference will that make.
Any sugestions?
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Adam Bartos
Nacra 5.0
SolCat 18 (sold)
Lake Zurich, IL
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Posted: Jan 22, 2014 - 03:34 AM
Not a big difference. Imagine you are looking at the boat from the side and the jib sheet goes from the clew to the hull at the correct angle. If you set the jib higher on the forestay and keepk the jib sheet angle equal, the jib would touch the boat further back. But just a fraction of the distance you raised the jib.
But it sounds like you should set the blocks at the beam then, how does it work there? Or use the jib sheet to figure out where is the right point. It is somewhere.. -
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Posted: Jan 22, 2014 - 09:45 AM
I think the 5.0 & 5.2 jibs are the same size.
The 3 jibs I have for the 5.0 are as follows:
194 184 72 (oldest & worn)
192 186 72 (newest, very crisp)
192 184 72 (crisp, off an older 5.2)
In comparison the 5.7 measures;
209 201 77
The luff & foot are easy to measure quite accurately. The leech might be off a bit as I was using a steel tape & it doesn't conform to the curve exactly.
Changing the height you tack it at will change the sail shape. I noticed that on the 5.7. With the jib tacked 6" higher, & the jib block fully forward in the track- when sheeted tightly it tends to stretch the leech, but shows some wrinkles radiating outward from the tack.
If you visualize it, that makes sense. Pulling hard enough on the leech, will deflect the forestay if it is not tight enough.
Since your jib blocks are fixed, the angle of your sheet cannot change, unless you change the height of the jib.
Maybe the PO bought/made bridals that are to long? When hoisting the jib you should still have plenty of room at the head.
What about mast rake, that will change how the sheet tensions foot/leech.
I always thought the foot should be near to horizontal to be most effective.
Edited by Edchris177 on Jan 22, 2014 - 09:50 AM.
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Hobie 18 Magnum
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Posted: Jan 22, 2014 - 06:05 PM
Andinista, could you explain your jib setup more. I am curious what type of blocks and cleating system is used on the adjustable setup on your N5.5. Thanks Kevin
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Kevin
Wantanacra
VA Beach, VA
Nacra 5.0
Nacra 5.2
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Posted: Jan 22, 2014 - 09:19 PM
The original jib bag which came with the package has a print N5.0 and N5.2 which confirms that they are the same.
Dimensions of my jib are:
193" 183" 71.5"
Everything on my boat was original when I bought it in 2012. That boat was less then 30 times on water since it was sold in 1992 and only 2 times since the 2nd owner got it in 2000. So I am confident that bridals are also original. Also the jib's foot is parrallel to hulls when sheeted.
I don't see any problems with hoisting the jib higher though to change the geometry a little, except that I have to wait for spring or early summer to do it.
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Adam Bartos
Nacra 5.0
SolCat 18 (sold)
Lake Zurich, IL
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Posted: Jan 23, 2014 - 10:56 AM
My system is inspired on drapery tracks....
I got 2 Laser vang blocks, they have V-jam cleats (and are rather cheap)
I also purchased the 4-way system adjustable plates to install on the track, instead of the eye strap, for a better fit:
So I insert the laser block pin through one of the holes on the plate, that keeps the block flat (horizontal)
In case of mounting to an eye-strap instead of the plate, maybe a carabiner would work.
For the jibsheet blocks, I attach them to little loops on the line with a quick release shackle (that would be optional..)
On the drawing I put in different colors the different lenghts of the line to show how it is set up (need to zoom in..). Basically the two lengths where you attach each block move in the opposite way so it either "open" or "close" the mounting position on both sides at the same time.
You can see it (barely) on this video, at 2:47. It has two colors just because I joined two lines that I had available, but it should be a unique line.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uilA3tq3_Pw
Edited by Andinista on Jan 23, 2014 - 11:01 AM. -
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Posted: Jan 23, 2014 - 04:43 PM
Thanks for your time on explaining your setup. Kevin
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Kevin
Wantanacra
VA Beach, VA
Nacra 5.0
Nacra 5.2
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