a good sailor buddy I was out on a sail with yesterday suggested I replace the somewhat awkward hooking system on the jib and main sail at the top of mast and forestay with a way to tie/cleat of the halyard. It does sometimes take a bit of trial and error getting both the mast sail and jib hooked correctly and yesterday I was not able to do so with the jib so we ended up tieing it off.
He also suggested two separate lines for the traveler car and main sheet.
I was just wondering what other folks thought about the idea in general and then also more specifically what other Prindle owners might have previously done reducing either of those ideas to practice...
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Marek
1992 Prindle 19
1981 Prindle 16
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Prindle 19 rigging questions
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Posted: Jun 02, 2014 - 02:30 PM
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Posted: Jun 03, 2014 - 03:50 AM
Marek,
For the jib-setup, make sure the halyard is running through the ring .
Tie both ends of the halyard to the top of the hook, now you have a
loop and you can raise and lower the hook with one line.
With a shackle connect the hook to the jib-head, make SURE the open
side of the hook is looking backwards, facing the mast.
Now you can start raising the jib, run the halyard through the zipper-
pocket of the jib. Run the hook through the ring and swiftly pull it down
till the jib is hooked. Now stash the remaining halyard in the zipper pocket.
To put tension on the luff, run a little rope through the bridle and the eye
of the jibe (tack).
To lower the jib, uncleat the tack and take the halyard out of the zipper pocket.
Slowly hoist the hook through the ring till the ring pops up. Then slowly run
the hook down through the ring whilst keeping tension on both sides of the
halyard. Its a matter of trail and error, eventually you will get the hang of it.
EDIT
By tieing of the halyards, you will never get enough tension on the luf of
the sail. And while doing so, the strain on the halyards is probably make
them break at some point.
A tip on raising the main. Make sure the boat is pointing straight into the wind,
make sure the mast-rotator lines are lose. Raise the main and when its
all the way up, keep tension on the halyard and point the mastrotator to the
port side to the extend it is paralel with the front-beam.
As for the 2 lines , traveller and main, I run the mainsheet through the
traveller-car simply because you run two controls with 1 line. You don't
have to reach for the traveller-line ( which is always dangling on the leeward side)
because its in you're hand.
Just make sure the main-sheet is long enough to control both.
Some interesting reading about the P 18-2 and P19 set-up can be found here,
http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=35453
Regards, André
Edited by catmodding on Jun 03, 2014 - 11:27 AM.
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Tornado (80's Reg White)
Prindle 18-2 (sold)
Dart 16 (hired and hooked)
13 mtr steel cutter (sold)
Etap 22, unsinkable sailing pocket cruiser.
Amsterdam, the Netherlands
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Posted: Jun 03, 2014 - 05:39 AM
Normally if one uses 2 lines, the traveler line is about 10 feet in length and a smaller size than the main sheet. It makes it easier to cleat in that way. You do not let the traveler line be free but tie the mainsheet and the traveler line together and you will have one control line. Just make sure you put a figure eight knot in the traveler line so the car will stop short of going all the way to the end. -
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Posted: Jun 03, 2014 - 07:39 AM
I have taken the hook of my jib and put a small block at the top of the forestay and jam cleat on the mast to adjust the tension of the jib luff. To do this you need a no stretch line for the halyard. The two line main/traveler I like and use on my boat. To do the jib luff tensioner set-up take the halyard and tie a small block on to it just above the s-clip. You need to put a jam cleat on the front of the mast with a line tied to it. When you raise the sail tie the bottom of the luff off like you would normally. Now take the line tied to the cleat run through the little block on the halyard and back through the cleat. Now you can change the tension of the the jib luff. I have this set-up on my prindle 16 19 and nacra 20.
Edited by prestonracing on Jun 03, 2014 - 07:41 AM. -
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Posted: Jun 03, 2014 - 11:22 AM
HULLFLYER, that's a good advice, thanks!
Prestonracing,
Running lines along the mast wil influence the airflow into the main, losing power.
I'm always trying to avoid that.
Or, maybe I misunderstand you're setup.
André
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Tornado (80's Reg White)
Prindle 18-2 (sold)
Dart 16 (hired and hooked)
13 mtr steel cutter (sold)
Etap 22, unsinkable sailing pocket cruiser.
Amsterdam, the Netherlands
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Posted: Jun 03, 2014 - 11:29 AM
...thanks everyone for the comments. I screwed up with the jib halyard not running it through the O-ring. That caused the O-Ring to have too much freedom to rotate out of place when nudged by the S-hook.
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Marek
1992 Prindle 19
1981 Prindle 16
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Posted: Jun 03, 2014 - 02:57 PM
Prestonracing,
Running lines along the mast wil influence the airflow into the main, losing power.
I'm always trying to avoid that.
Or, maybe I misunderstand you're setup.
André[/quote]
No the setup runs right down the middle of the mast. It would cause very little wind flow disturbance if any. With the mast rotated as it would be in sailing the line would not be in the air flow off the jib. Most the new spin boats( f16 f18 n20) the spin halyard runs down the mast on the starboard side and those lines a bigger and flop a little when the sail is down so if there was an influence of airflow I didn't think that would be the setup on those boats. -
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Posted: Jun 03, 2014 - 03:38 PM
No the setup runs right down the middle of the mast. It would cause very little wind flow disturbance if any. With the mast rotated as it would be in sailing the line would not be in the air flow off the jib. Most the new spin boats( f16 f18 n20) the spin halyard runs down the mast on the starboard side and those lines a bigger and flop a little when the sail is down so if there was an influence of airflow I didn't think that would be the setup on those boats.[/quote]
So, it's probably me, relatively new to cat-sailing and own idea's. Even made a block on the
gin-pole, 2 inches in front of the bridle , to keep the mast clear of the spi halyard.
Nice to be here, on the beach cats forum.
André
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Tornado (80's Reg White)
Prindle 18-2 (sold)
Dart 16 (hired and hooked)
13 mtr steel cutter (sold)
Etap 22, unsinkable sailing pocket cruiser.
Amsterdam, the Netherlands
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Posted: Jun 03, 2014 - 03:48 PM
Marek,
The lesson here is to make sure you have a catamaran rigged completely correctly the stock way before trying to invent a new way. Most problems are caused by just a little variation from how it should be done.
And don't take rigging advice from a non-beachcat sailor no matter how long they've been sailing or how good a buddy they are.
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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN
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Posted: Jun 03, 2014 - 04:19 PM
Damon,
yes, that's definitely the conclusion for me right now: get the boat rigged correctly and see how that works for a while and then take it from there. Unfortunately, the P19 manual I had printed out had gotten misplaced when I spent a few hours recapping the rigging on Saturday afternoon. It's nice to have everything on a piece of paper when you are walking around the boat...
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Marek
1992 Prindle 19
1981 Prindle 16
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Posted: Jun 03, 2014 - 04:46 PM
All,
This topic got me on a idea how to make a simple jib-luff tensioner...
Let ya know !
André
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Tornado (80's Reg White)
Prindle 18-2 (sold)
Dart 16 (hired and hooked)
13 mtr steel cutter (sold)
Etap 22, unsinkable sailing pocket cruiser.
Amsterdam, the Netherlands
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Posted: Jun 04, 2014 - 08:25 AM
From the Prindle manual, located in the Catamaran Technical Tips under photo albums, there is also a downloadable PDF for the Prindle on page 3
http://www.thebeachcats.c…ictures/?g2_itemId=75669
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