Finally got back to my H14t project and tonight started installing the dolphin striker kit with the post and cable. The post install went without a hitch. When I tried to put the rods through the corner castings I
found the holes misaligned. They are pretty close from the outside in, but when trying either a 3/8 drill
bit or the rods from the inside out like they should go, the holes are off. Of course the holes are too close
to the crossbar to allow a drill motor in to realign the holes. Anyone have a solution for this issue?
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Pete Knapp
Schodack landing,NY
Goodall Viper,AHPC Viper,Nacra I20
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H14 dolphin striker install.
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Posted: Jun 04, 2014 - 05:59 PM
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Posted: Jun 05, 2014 - 03:38 AM
Round file? Right angle drill? Longer drill bit?
sm
Edited by Dogboy on Jun 05, 2014 - 03:40 AM. -
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Posted: Jun 05, 2014 - 10:49 AM
You can pick up 36" long 3/8 drill bit from harbor freight for $10. I bought a set for drilling into engine blocks.
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FYC, Nacra 5.2 "Chris's Flyer" & Nacra Playcat & Farrier Tramp
Previously owned: Trac 14, H14, H16, H18, N5.0, G-cat 5.0
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Posted: Jun 05, 2014 - 06:15 PM
Took the crossbar to work and found my right angle air drill was just small enough to do the job perfectly.
I put the tramp frame from a newer boat on a 1980 set of hulls and found the bolt holes through the pylons to be way off. Is it common to have some of the holes as much as half a hole off? I guess I just drill out the
holes to match?
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Pete Knapp
Schodack landing,NY
Goodall Viper,AHPC Viper,Nacra I20
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Posted: Jun 05, 2014 - 07:39 PM
I don't think I'd drill it out if the holes are misaligned by half a hole. That is a lot of material to be removing and it's just going to induce slop into the hull/frame structure and speed the wearing out of the pylons. Why use the newer tramp frame? There's really no advantage as long as the old tramp frame is in good condition, I would just keep using the one where the holes line up properly, at least the corner castings.
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Posted: Jun 05, 2014 - 07:48 PM
I chose this frame because the mast step is in better shape, it has the brackets for the jib cable, and the traveler and rear swivel block are better. I am somewhat committed because I already installed the dolphin striker. I guess I will sleep on it and decide whether to backtrack or move forward with this frame..
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Pete Knapp
Schodack landing,NY
Goodall Viper,AHPC Viper,Nacra I20
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Posted: Jun 06, 2014 - 10:11 AM
The mast step, chain plates, and traveler cleat can all be easily swapped out with a couple rivets and a decent rivet gun. Or you can pull the crossbar and side bars off the corner castings and just swap the bars. I would just be leery about taking out big chunks of material from the pylons.
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