R
Thanks p8dawg
Nacra 5.2
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- Rank: Mate
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Posted: Jun 16, 2014 - 05:11 PM
Am now the owner of a Nacra 5.2, boat is complete, good rudders, good dagger-boards, good trailer, and best of all, owner's friend works in St Louis and dropped the boat off with me on his way to work.
R
Thanks p8dawg -
- Rank: Lubber
- Registered: Mar 05, 2014
- Last visit: Jan 05, 2016
- Posts: 23
Posted: Jun 16, 2014 - 09:12 PM
Congratulations. I've owned my 5.2 for almost a year and I love it. Did you have any questions with setup? Any mods done? -
- Rank: Mate
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Posted: Jun 17, 2014 - 07:12 AM
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Cesar (Cez) S.
Hobie 16 (had a few)
Nacra 5.2 "Hull Yeah"
Vectorworks XJ - A class (not named yet)
West Michigan (Grand Rapids/Holland Area)
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Posted: Jun 17, 2014 - 07:22 AM
Congrats, I've had mine for some years now. Still love it. -
- Rank: Mate
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Posted: Jun 18, 2014 - 06:14 AM
Have not had the chance to set it up just yet, but as soon as I do I'm sure I will have a lot of questions, but meanwhile, if you can think of anything I need to know go ahead and advise
Thanks
R -
- Rank: Mate
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- Posts: 187
Posted: Jun 20, 2014 - 06:55 AM
Lots of 5.2 info on this site. Just about anything that you'll run into has been discussed here. Start digging, you'll be surprise with what you find here.
Nothing against the search tool here but I use my browser's google, most of the valuable stuff is on this site but "regular" google presents it better IMO.
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Cesar (Cez) S.
Hobie 16 (had a few)
Nacra 5.2 "Hull Yeah"
Vectorworks XJ - A class (not named yet)
West Michigan (Grand Rapids/Holland Area)
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- Registered: Sep 29, 2012
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Posted: Aug 06, 2014 - 09:54 PM
On the Nacra 5.2, the jib block wires run fore and aft, can anyone explain why. On all my other beachcats so far, the jib block wires ran port/starboard, which seems logical, open and close the jib sail slot as needed.
I have ordered my new tramp with cut-outs as I plan to move the jib block wires under the tramp, the slots seem to be about 2-3 ft long, which means that the jib blocks can only adjust fore and aft to those limits. Also plan to remove the center bar. -
- Rank: Master Chief
- Registered: Jun 20, 2006
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Posted: Aug 07, 2014 - 07:49 AM
fore and aft block are micro adjustments that optimize the sheeting angle of the jib
typically forward for flat water and back for rough water -
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Posted: Aug 07, 2014 - 09:26 AM
so no outward adjustment for downwind? -
- Rank: Master Chief
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Posted: Aug 07, 2014 - 10:56 AM
yes adjust (inhaul the jib blocks) for upwind/ outhaul for downwind -
- Rank: Mate
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Posted: Aug 07, 2014 - 01:04 PM
barbers haulers help you out downwind and the location of the jib sheet blocks becomes much less relevant one the barber haulers are in effect.
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Cesar (Cez) S.
Hobie 16 (had a few)
Nacra 5.2 "Hull Yeah"
Vectorworks XJ - A class (not named yet)
West Michigan (Grand Rapids/Holland Area)
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Posted: Aug 08, 2014 - 12:32 PM
Thanks for all the input guys, pretty much what I had already concluded, but great to have it confirmed. -
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Posted: Sep 17, 2014 - 10:09 AM
After N5.2 was purchased and delivered, parked boat at storage lot and have been super-busy with mowing. Finally took some time to go inspect boat carefully, looked better in the pics and in the dark when it was delivered. I'm no professional but it looks to me like at some time in the past, this boat was sanded down to the glass, primed with a black primer, and spray-painted with a low quality white paint. The paint is fading off leaving the black primer, washed the boat using bristle-brush and water and the run-off was white, indicating the low-quality paint. So winter project is to sand back to glass, re-prime and shoot with some high-quality paint, either with the 1-part Interlux Brightside, or with the 2-part Interlux Perfection.
I welcome any/all comments/suggestions....
R
PS pics to follow shortly -
- Rank: Mate
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Posted: Sep 17, 2014 - 11:20 AM
The white paint could be gelcoat, that will get you the same white powdery runoff effect. The black primer sounds like a B1tch to cean up though...
Before doing anything about the paint, I'd check to see if there are no other repairs called for first. Otherwise you may end up painting it twice. Check to see if the decks flex, they may be in need of an extra layer of glass or two. Then get it out on the water asap and see if anything breaks so you can fix that too before painting.
Dennis -
- Rank: Lubber
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- Posts: 78
Posted: Sep 18, 2014 - 07:48 AM
I've sanded down two of the 5.2's and one 5.8 and all had the black undercoat you mention. All also had the chalky gel that would wash off when hit with a power washer. It is just from being left to the weather. I believe the black is a UV barrier. If I recall, I've also read something that it was a special coating that would help to hide the glass cloth weave. So, I don't think you have anything strange there. I would avoid sanding down to the glass if possible. Just take enough off to get to something that is not easily coming off the hull. I have found that there are huge numbers of air voids (large and pin size) under the gel that are a royal pain in the A** to get filled. The larger are easy to find, but the pin size won't show until you put a primer or gel on. Just try getting thick gel into a small hole, it won't happen and as soon as you sand that hole shows back up. I spent hours with diluted gel and a very very small brush building up pin holes. Lesson learned quickly, don't take too much off if possible!!
I'm no expert on the Interlux products, but when trying to decide to shoot with gel or paint all my research suggested not going with any of the paints. Unless it is bottom paint, none indicated that they could handle continuous water contact for more than a day or two without possible failure. That included sitting in wet cradles. If you are going to shoot, why not shoot gel? It was really no big deal and you can get a gun for $100. It's nothing special, just needs a larger 2.5 or so nozzle to handle the thicker material. You will end up with some orange peel since the material is thicker than paint when sprayed, but you won't need to sand unless you want the flat smooth finish glassy look. Mine looked great after the shoot, but I wanted the smooth finish, so I sanded. If you are going to sand the orange peel out, then put extra gel on!
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Craig
Windrider Rave Hydrofoil
Nacra 5.2 Restored and heavily modified
Nacra 5.2 (one under restoration)
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.8NA
SoCal
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Posted: Sep 18, 2014 - 11:12 AM
My Tornado had a black undercoat as well, only on the decks.
So You shouldn't be to worried about the black layer.
I used a 2-component polyurethane paint-system 4 years ago
on my P18-2.
Al that time it is stored outside and I never buffed the hull or waxed it.
It is still glossy ! I do a wash-up with household cleaner at the
beginning of the season. That's all.
That's why I decided to use it on the T. The stuff is called DD-coat and not
available in the US. What is for sale in the States is this Dutch product.
http://www.westmarine.com…opside-paint--P014371181
It has the same characteristics as DD-coat.
Amazing is the price-difference, € 35,50 to 79,90 dollars for the
same product??
Needed 4 cans on the P18-2, 5 on the Tornado.
Follow my building-project here,http://www.thebeachcats.c…/15262/start/20#pid53078
Regards, André
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Tornado (80's Reg White)
Prindle 18-2 (sold)
Dart 16 (hired and hooked)
13 mtr steel cutter (sold)
Etap 22, unsinkable sailing pocket cruiser.
Amsterdam, the Netherlands
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