In my never-ending quest for lower setup-breakdown time, I am thinking about trailering my P16 with rudders attached. I read on these here forums - I think - that people do that by simply sticking wood stoppers into the casting loops, thus fixing the rudders in the up position. That's certainly better than relying on the cleated rudder uphaul lines, but I am concerned that the rudders will basically rest on a single point of contact between the wood stopper (curved outward from the transom) and the rudder top (curved inward toward the transom) and on the axis of up-down rotation. that seems like a lot of pressure from road vibration going onto the rudder top curve (no biggie) and the pin on which rudder rotates up-down (how long will that take to bend/loosen the rudder hole?)
I am thinking of fashioning stiff foam or Styrofoam blocks with a deep groove through the center that would distribute the pressure along the whole leading edge of the rudder (resting in the groove) and the transom surface (resting against the back of the foam block). The only thing is I am not sure if the long pins to which the casting attaches - and, for that matter, the transom loops to which they attach - can manage the load of supporting attached rudders hanging back from the boat.
Any opinions or personal experience on this topic would be appreciated - I would really love to set up the rudders once a season.
Edited by mgoltsman on Jul 22, 2014 - 11:54 AM.
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Mike
Prindle 16
Rochester, NY
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Trailering a P16 with rudders attached
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Posted: Jul 22, 2014 - 09:49 AM
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Posted: Jul 22, 2014 - 11:23 AM
Used to trailer a P16 and a Nacra 5.8 with Rudders attached. Just used a rope tied to the cross bar to hold the rudders up. For that matter I also left the rigging attached and just curled it up on the tramp and tied it down. -
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Posted: Jul 22, 2014 - 11:32 AM
Good to know, thanks - looks like I am overthinking it as usual
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Mike
Prindle 16
Rochester, NY
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Posted: Jul 22, 2014 - 11:38 AM
how far are you traveling? how are the road conditions?
if its a short trip, and the roads are good.. i wouldn't be worried
if its a long trip/high speed driving, and/or rough road conditions... will wear and tear on your rudders if they are facing constant wind and wiggle and extra caution should be considered -
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Posted: Jul 22, 2014 - 11:58 AM
No more than an hour drive on average roads, slowing down on bumpy stuff (trailer is marginally too narrow). Still, a $30 block of Styrofoam large enough to cradle both rudders (http://amzn.com/B008HV11DE) seems like a small price to pay to avoid losing a $500 rudder blade (not that I would replace it - buying a parts boat or selling this one for parts would be cheaper).
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Mike
Prindle 16
Rochester, NY
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Posted: Jul 22, 2014 - 12:02 PM
At any time that you trailer a boat with the rudders on, all the forces are acting on the rudder gudgeons, even if you use the wood stopper, it only stops the rudder from bouncing in the castings. But you have almost 2 feet of dead-weight acting on on pin and gudgeons, so its a toss-up between set-up and wear. I personally remove rudders and store them on trailer when traveling.
Have someone hold rudder in the "up" position, pull rudder line(s) out of rudder and loosen knot(s) (if possible), using 2 pliers. Once knot has been broken loose remove line, a simple over-hand knot is used when replacing rudder. Remove pivot bolt and nut, remove rudder, place in storage bag, place in container, tie lines loosely together using slip-knot. I trailer my boat on trailer stern 1st and if I leave rudders on, the wind will force the rudders to one side or the other, so removing my rudders is not optional, fortunately removing rudders is part of my break-down and I have no problems.
It takes me 5 min to mount rudders, takes two 11mm wrenches, I leave bolt on casting, it is held in place by the lock nut, remove bolt, insert rudder, slide bolt in, tighten nut and bolt untill slop is removed, insert both lines and tie over-hand knot to secure line, repeat on other side, go sailing. -
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Posted: Jul 22, 2014 - 01:11 PM
Tiger 2216 has best answer. Drill a small hole near top of trailing edge of blade & tie to crossbar. Pete -
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Posted: Jul 22, 2014 - 01:53 PM
I should probably clarify that I did this way back when with older boats used for recreational sailing only and I was not concerned with a bit of wear and resulting play in the rudder system.
Once I started buying new boats for racing I take every possible piece off. -
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Posted: Jul 23, 2014 - 06:50 AM
+1
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Posted: Jul 24, 2014 - 09:15 AM
I've had two P-16's and now my P-19. I've never trailered them with the rudders installed, it puts too much stress on the rudders as well as the other structural parts of the stern. It takes maybe 10 minutes to put them on so why risk damaging the boat. I don't think Hobies and Nacras were an issue but the Prindle designers advise to not trailer with the rudders attached. -
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Posted: Jul 24, 2014 - 11:45 AM
The closest lake is an hour away, so I have never trailered with the rudders on. On my P16 the wiggle in the rudders when sailing bugged me a lot more than the setup time. Eventually I used shims, brass bushings and moulded plastic bushings to eliminate the slop. Once it was perfect, I did not mind the setup time to be able to helm the cat with my little finger. My P 18-2 came with a tight helm, so I put the rudders on last and remove them first. I have cloth/foam gloves to cover the blades while they are in the cat box to prevent the bolts from chewing on the gelcoat. I race in the ocean, so a tight helm is really important to me.
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Sheet In!
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Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
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