16' Prindle rudder lines
-
- Rank: Lubber
- Registered: Jul 27, 2014
- Last visit: Jul 28, 2014
- Posts: 3
Posted: Jul 27, 2014 - 10:29 PM
Does anybody's rudder lines work correctly or is having to fight with em just the nature of the beast ? -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Sep 29, 2012
- Last visit: Jan 10, 2018
- Posts: 441
Posted: Jul 27, 2014 - 10:50 PM
-
- Rank: Lubber
- Registered: Jul 27, 2014
- Last visit: Jul 28, 2014
- Posts: 3
Posted: Jul 28, 2014 - 12:30 AM
Yeah man, Gotta get them corrected. I've tried that link many times.......bad link, don't work. Other ideas ? -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Oct 19, 2006
- Last visit: Aug 16, 2017
- Posts: 613
Posted: Jul 28, 2014 - 07:47 AM
Go to "Photo Albums" tab at top of page, scroll down to "Catamaran Technical Tips", go to page 2 of that Album, scroll down to "Prindle Rudder Mechanism", peruse avidly....
--
TurboHobo
H14T
H16
P18
G-Cat 5.0
P16
-- -
- Rank: Administrator
- Registered: Jul 19, 2001
- Last visit: Nov 15, 2024
- Posts: 3446
Posted: Jul 28, 2014 - 01:18 PM
5.2moana, Welcome to TheBeachcats.com!
This link doesn't work for you?
http://www.thebeachcats.c…pictures?g2_itemId=89541
How about this one?
http://www.thebeachcats.c…pictures?g2_itemId=89544
It's the first of 15 pictures with excellent descriptions of the Prindle rudder system.
--
Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN
How To Create Your Signature
How To Create Your Own Cool Avatar
How To Display Pictures In The Forums.
-- -
- Rank: Lubber
- Registered: Jul 27, 2014
- Last visit: Jul 28, 2014
- Posts: 3
Posted: Jul 28, 2014 - 03:44 PM
How about this one?
http://www.thebeachcats.c…pictures?g2_itemId=89544
That's the one ! Great pics and explanation. Mahalo Should be working in no time. (Famous last words right)
Again thank you -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: May 04, 2014
- Last visit: Mar 03, 2015
- Posts: 138
Posted: Jul 29, 2014 - 05:37 AM
My rudders, after being refit, work well, I used stainless washers between the shieves to keep the lines in place
--
1975 P16 "Spring Rain"Sail # 642
Home Built 2004 Optimist-Delta "Unity"
So old it has Dino hide for a sail Chrysler "Pirateer"
Steve
Oyama BC
Lat 50.1167 N
Long 119.3667 W
1700 ft
-- -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Sep 29, 2012
- Last visit: Jan 10, 2018
- Posts: 441
Posted: Jul 30, 2014 - 08:30 AM
Those SS washers are supposed to be there, 4 of them, 1 on either side of the 3 sheaves, inspect the sheaves closely and if brittle to the point of crumbling under a fingernail scrape, replace. -
- Rank: Lubber
- Registered: Sep 24, 2013
- Last visit: Jan 25, 2023
- Posts: 57
Posted: Jul 30, 2014 - 10:05 AM
So, here's a question: the description of this photo mentions that adjusting the lock bolt in or out controls the "break-away tension of rudders" I thought this adjustment would control the angle of rudders, which together with mast rake determined whether/how fast the boat turns into the wind. Is my understanding incorrect? If so, what is this "break-away tension of rudders" - the amount of force required to pop them up? I ask because one of my rudders is WAAY too easy to pop up by hand and did indeed pop up in the water making the boat all but unsteerable. I assumed this was because the hole in which the lock bolt screws into got pushed down a touch - is my problem simply that the bolt is not screwed in far enough?
--
Mike
Prindle 16
Rochester, NY
-- -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Sep 29, 2012
- Last visit: Jan 10, 2018
- Posts: 441
Posted: Jul 30, 2014 - 02:57 PM
On the Prindles, the lock-bolt adjustment also adjusts the rudder rake but to such a small degree that rudder rake is not an issue on these boats, same with mast rake. If your rudder is popping up when you are sailing then you need to adjust the break-away tension of the rudder at the lock-bolt. There are 2 nuts on the lock-bolt, loosen off the outer nut, adjust the inner nut to shorten the extruding part of the lock-bolt, finger tighten the outer nut, lock rudder down, grab rudder on bottom and pull untill rudder breaks free, adjust break-away tension untill you're satisfied. Some get real technical and use a gage to adjust break-away tension, I just use my arms and guesstimate. Remember, when you're satisfied with your break-away tension to lock down the 2nd nut onto the 1st nut, but always make sure that the leading edge of the lock-bolt is parallel with the lock-pin, this will reduce wear on all mechanisms and ensure good lock-down contact with lock-bolt and lock-pin.
-
- Rank: Lubber
- Registered: Sep 24, 2013
- Last visit: Jan 25, 2023
- Posts: 57
Posted: Jul 30, 2014 - 03:21 PM
Thanks for the clarification, hopefully that will take care of the problem. There is minimal vertical play in the lock-pin, but only a tiny bit - I did not expect it to have a significant effect but did not know what else to attribute it to. My next thing to try would be to put a duct tape shim on the bottom of the lock-pin hole to ensure it stays up, but of course I will try adjusting the tension the way you suggested first.
--
Mike
Prindle 16
Rochester, NY
-- -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Sep 29, 2012
- Last visit: Jan 10, 2018
- Posts: 441
Posted: Jul 30, 2014 - 04:50 PM
Mike, the lower pin is the anchor-pin, it does not move....
The upper pin is the lock-pin and it does/should move vertically.....
If you are referring to vertical play on the lock-bolt located in the rudder, not good, the lock -bolt should have no play. Instead of using duct tape as a shim, see if you can use a hollow metal/aluminum tube, sort of like a bushing. Hole in rudder in which lock-bolt sits has been enlarged, find tube that fits hole and that lock-bolt fits exactly, no play. -
- Rank: Lubber
- Registered: Sep 24, 2013
- Last visit: Jan 25, 2023
- Posts: 57
Posted: Jul 30, 2014 - 06:56 PM
Yep, that's the one that has the play - the lock-pin hole. Not enough to put any metal tube in it though - none that I can feel by hand, in fact. But after I lock the rider and pop it out, I can move the lock pin down by a smidge. I've been playing with it just now, and it's certainly getting tighter as I screw the lock pin further into the rudder.
So here's another question - is there such a thing as a too high "break-away tension of rudders"? My "bad" rudder now takes a considerable effort to unlock if I hold the blade under my armpit tiller up and push away on the tiller with the other arm. The "good" rudder, however, locks too strongly for me to unlock in that fashion. So, is my "good" rudder over-tight, or do I need to keep tightening the "bad" rudder?
Edited by mgoltsman on Jul 30, 2014 - 08:44 PM.
--
Mike
Prindle 16
Rochester, NY
-- -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Sep 29, 2012
- Last visit: Jan 10, 2018
- Posts: 441
Posted: Jul 30, 2014 - 09:04 PM
I was hoping that as you tighten/shorten the lock-bolt, it would tighten up in its seat, hopefully thats the situation in your case. When it comes to break-away tension on your rudders, just think of the force acting on the gudgeons and pins when the rudders hit an obstruction, could tear your transom off, so adjust your tension accordingly, enough tension so the rudders stay down when sailing at speed, but will pop when hitting something, that is guesstimating. Just play with the lock-bolt adjustment untill you're satisfied, I usually do this with boat on trailer, rudder locked down, I sit on the ground behind the rudder, grab the bottom and give a sharp, energetic tug. Repeat process on other rudder.
HTH
R
Edited by the-renovator on Jul 30, 2014 - 09:09 PM. -
- Rank: Lubber
- Registered: Sep 24, 2013
- Last visit: Jan 25, 2023
- Posts: 57
Posted: Jul 30, 2014 - 09:36 PM
Thanks for all the details. It did tighten up, I think, as I screwed the lock pin further into the rudder. I have no reference for what it takes for the rudder to stay down while sailing at speed, but I think it's now strong enough to try on the water. I may loosen up the other rudder a touch though...
--
Mike
Prindle 16
Rochester, NY
-- -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Sep 29, 2012
- Last visit: Jan 10, 2018
- Posts: 441
Posted: Jul 30, 2014 - 09:51 PM
yep, good idea.....
