I need to tighten the tramp lacing on my 1982 Hobie 16. I came across a tool for doing this in a Murray's catalog. It's called "The Uptight Tramp Tool." Seems like a good idea rather than using vice grips and muscle. I contacted Murray's and they don't have them any more. Does anyone have an idea where they might be available yet? Another option would be to make something that works in a simular manner. A third option would be if anyone simply has any good ideas on how to do this really well.
Thank you for any help.
Tramp tightening
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Posted: Nov 28, 2014 - 11:52 AM
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Posted: Nov 28, 2014 - 12:58 PM
Forget the tool, you already have everything you need.
I came across this a few years ago, & saved the link. Scroll down to Matt Millers (Hobie Guru) advice.
http://www.hobiecat.com/f….php?f=14&t=2410&start=0
The real gem is his last sentence of the post...yarding on the line with any tool is hard on that individual grommet.
I modified this system for use on my Nacra's, which tension to the rear beam. I use 4 or 5 carpenter clamps, between tramp tube & rear beam to pull the tramp tight, & slightly bend beam. Then just hand pull the line tight, & tie off. Dipping the line is soapy water helps greatly.
I would never cut off the excess line, as one poster suggested. At over $1/ft, you're wasting the equivalent of several good German beers. Tie it off, then weave the tail through lacing & tie off. The line wears the most right at grommet contact point. Having extra allows you to "shift" the line a few inches each year, thereby getting years of use out of it.
Item last, DON'T USE CHEAP LINE!
Splurge & use the lowest stretch/creep line you can get. Something like V10 Vectran,(it holds knots well). Cheap line means you get to do this job every week.
Edited by Edchris177 on Nov 28, 2014 - 01:03 PM.
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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
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Posted: Nov 28, 2014 - 07:25 PM
For what it's worth, I used 2 lines to tighten the P16 tramp, so tighten one then the other.
I know it's different than a Hobie, the theory is the same though.
I laced mine in an X rather than both lines following the same pattern.
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1975 P16 "Spring Rain"Sail # 642
Home Built 2004 Optimist-Delta "Unity"
So old it has Dino hide for a sail Chrysler "Pirateer"
Steve
Oyama BC
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1700 ft
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Posted: Nov 28, 2014 - 08:46 PM
A water meter key works great, easily available at any home improvement store.
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Greenville SC
Offering sails and other go fast parts for A-class catamarans
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Posted: Nov 29, 2014 - 09:19 AM
Bacho, after going on line to find out what a water meter tool is, I guess I need some instructions on how to use it. Would you please elaborate. Thanks. -
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Posted: Nov 29, 2014 - 04:21 PM
It's just a tool with an end that has 2 "pins". You put a pin in opposite grommets & twist. That pulls the tramp sections together, but why bother?
Using the method shown by M Miller in the Hobie forum link is as simple as it gets. You already have everything, it's 1 man job, & will get the tramp as tight as you would ever want it.
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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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Posted: Nov 29, 2014 - 08:00 PM
That method may work for the center lacing on a H16, but it doesn't really do much for any other application.
The meter key works great because you can pull lots of line by letting the line wrap around the shaft. You can get a Hobie 16 (or any other tramp) REALLY tight. However you have lots of control to not tear grommets out. I've yet to pull a grommet with this method. On my last Hobie 16 I got the rear beam deflected inboard. It was enough to eliminate the need for a 2nd tension after the first sail.
A meter key is also pretty dang cheap, and handy for when pipes burst in your home.
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Greenville SC
Offering sails and other go fast parts for A-class catamarans
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Posted: Dec 01, 2014 - 12:25 PM
I use a section of small dia. PVC Pipe with a slot in the end. If you want to get fancy, you can add a handle to the top with a "T" fitting. I just drilled a hole that I slide a rudder pin through. I prebend the bars in with a ratchet strap, too. The tool just makes it easier to crank the slack out. I and several of my H16 buds have been doing it this way forever......super quick with two people. Never had a problem with the grommets.
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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16
Clinton, Mississippi
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Posted: Dec 01, 2014 - 02:29 PM
I use really thick tie-wraps, like these:
Only much thicker, like the ones they use as handcuffs .
Yank them as tight as I can with a pair of pliers, I just make sure the tramp is
evenly stretched, so all grommets have more or less the same load.
Then put the lacing-lines in a bucket of sweet water and when they are soaked
I reeve the line as hard as I can using a alu tube of 1" diameter and aprox. 1 foot
long, wrap the line around it and pull with 2 hands and all my body weight.
every 2 feet or so I use clamp like this
With a beek small enough to fit in the grommets, I clamp the line so I don't
loose tension. No worries about destroying the lace-line, the beeks have
soft plastic covers.
When I reach the last grommet I clamp the line and can prepare for the final knot
without losing tension.
When all lines are in place, I carefully cut all the tie-wraps.
Now, this way there is a lot of force involved, you could easily destroy the
tramp, so some common sense is required.
Regards, André
Edited by catmodding on Dec 01, 2014 - 09:37 PM.
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Tornado (80's Reg White)
Prindle 18-2 (sold)
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Etap 22, unsinkable sailing pocket cruiser.
Amsterdam, the Netherlands
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