I have no fingernails, mine are very weak. The boat came with a screw box filled all sorts of gubbins and thingamajigs. There were some quick pins in there. I think I might order new rings. The ones I see on the website have a curl at the end of them which I think might be easier to get it started?? We are hoping to move the boat to a mast up storage so I wouldn't have to do it as often and we can get out quicker.
I flicked the line which usually didn't work but basically my best bet was to reach over which isn't going to work in all weathers! I'm not sure, but I think it made things worse when I moved the blocks forward because there was less slack in the tramp up there for a snap of the line to work. However, my pants kept getting caught on the adjustment when it was more aft.
Hobie 18?
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Posted: Feb 09, 2015 - 01:33 PM
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Posted: Feb 09, 2015 - 01:48 PM
Go to hobie parts catalog and look at the convenience packages. Will give you a good idea.
The rings for pins with the curled in end are must. also for the rudder pins. stainless steel hair clips,
they should have them at your local ace hardware, Quickpins are nice, you can find them on line fairly cheap.
Suggest you spend a few $'s about 20 to 25, get a good stainless steel multi tool, the pliers are handy when rigging.
Your jib blocks should have a rotation adjustment for the cleat, usually loosening two screws, try it in various positions until you find one that you like,
Go to a local hobie regatta, get their early and see how all those people have their boats set up to trailer, They can do it fast, so they have come up with all the short cuts, who knows if you are lucky you might get a chance to crew for someone, and learn a whole bunch.
The rude racers, don't let a few bad apples spoil your day. Unfortunately there are a few of those in every group, I feel sorry for them that they cant have a good time sailing without being mad!. -
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Posted: Feb 09, 2015 - 04:05 PM
in heavy air you will need to move back (improving your cleatting angle) and you can trap out and also improve the angle and you can get the line lower on the tramp.. also helping it release
in real heavy air, you can furl the jib to depower the boat and it's not an issue at all
again this is just a matter of technique. all h18 sailors (esp crew) experience this and figure out a way that works for them over time on the water (you can actually practice this on the beach before pushing off -
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Posted: Feb 09, 2015 - 04:12 PM
+1
- no disrespect but i would never do this - hairclips are not made with the quality standards that hobie gear has (and other quality brands) . marine grade parts and equipment are needed on marine vessels -
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Posted: Feb 09, 2015 - 06:18 PM
My first recommendation, if you have not done so already, is to go to the Hobie Cat website and download a pdf version of the H18 assembly manual. Print it out and take it with you next time you rig the boat. The Hobie site also has a forum dedicated to the H18 where just about every concieveable question you could have can be or already has been answered.
Regarding the jib cleats, my first question would be what type of jib blocks do you have? The older 18s came stock with Seaway brand jib blocks. These blocks had chrome plated steel cleats which were very difficult to operate. The Harken cleats are much easier to operate. If you have seaway blocks, you can buy an adapter plate which will allow you to install the Harken cleat onto the seaway block. Or better yet, replace the whole block with a Harken block - they are much better if you can afford them.
Otherwise, snapping the sheet out of the jib cleat on the 18 can be challenging even for vetran crews. It mostly comes down to technique. You need to have just enough slack in the sheet when you snap it out of the cleat and that takes practice. You can get a little extra practice uncleating with the boat on the beach if you want.
The other option is to switch to Oxen blocks which don't have a traditional cam cleat and they allow you to easily cleat and uncleat the jib from anywhere on the boat. They are pricy though and take more maintenance then more traditional blocks.
Regarding clevis pins and quick pins, it is generally considered to be a no-no to use quick pins in standing rigging. I think the main problem with using them there is that they are much longer and bulkier then a standard clevis pin, so things are more likely to snag on them and they don't allow you to install vinyl covers over your shroud adjusters. Many people use quick pins for things like the tiller extension, gooseneck, clew connection, main blocks. If you sail from a sandy beach, you have to be careful because they will get jammed if they get sand in them.
sm
Edited by Dogboy on Feb 10, 2015 - 03:43 AM. -
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Posted: Feb 09, 2015 - 10:00 PM
great thanks. I'm not sure who makes the blocks but they are indeed metal. Feel vindicated about being shouted at by husband for not being quick enough!
BTW Dogboy, did you see smiling picture of aforementioned husbad?
Edited by oscarlet on Feb 09, 2015 - 10:00 PM. -
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Posted: Feb 11, 2015 - 07:38 PM
It all gets better with time...
One other solutions for replacing the pins that I have seen is the use of bow shackles. I know at least one veteran H18 sailor that has been using quick release pins for decades without issue. I, myself am wary about them.
If you have shiny metal cleats... they're probably seaway, they should say seaway stamped into the stainless steel along the side in a subtle font.
The Harken blocks have an anodized cleat with some plastic parts, more of a gunmetal color with red or ... faded pink trim.
Tom -
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Posted: Feb 12, 2015 - 08:06 AM
on my h18, I got sick of my shorts getting caught on the chainplate ringdings and switched to shackles
it should be noted that shackles can worm their-self open, esp on side stays that have lots of movement in them (leaward stay is always floppin around)
make sure you use a tool and tighten them extra hard - don't ask me how i know ....
