Referbing Older Hobie 18- Righting line.
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Posted: Feb 16, 2015 - 03:55 PM
been parking my mystere 5.5 like this for 8 years in this spot.
Othere mystere's for a decade or two.
they are not - the entire boat was tore down and re-built. about 500 man hours at a local sailing shop by an experienced boat welder/mystere owner
Edited by MN3 on Feb 16, 2015 - 04:00 PM. -
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Posted: Feb 16, 2015 - 06:41 PM
Looks like you got fantastic build, especially since you can sail it all year.
I endorsed Dogboys recommendation because I saw exactly that, at a sailing venue on Lake Ontario last summer.
In a rush to secure the boat from a fast approaching storm a chap hopped up onto the hull to grab a line...the soft "crunch" was not nearly as loud as the string of expletives that followed.
YMMV, but I would hate to see it happen to anyone's new toy.
PS I have not yet heard back from Yves re your parts...I'll resend the photo.
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Posted: Feb 17, 2015 - 07:14 AM
thanks, he did an amazing job.
I love all the custom welding he did
what kinda boat?
I am not holding my breath - but thanks -
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Posted: Feb 17, 2015 - 11:00 AM
If the bottoms of the hulls are solid laminate, it may be OK for a while, but even the Hobie 17's and 18's will fail if they're overloaded on a single roller for a long period of time. More modern boats have cored hulls throughout and are therefore even less tolerant of high compressive point loads. If you look at the contact point between the single roller and the hull, you will see that it is an incredibly small area where the load is distributed across (likely on the order of 1 square inch or less). It's the nature of the beast when you have two curved surfaces in contact with each other. Factor in the weight of the boat, a couple hundred pounds from one or two people sitting on the boat in the wrong spot, or some heavy snow load, and it doesn't take much to punch the roller thru the hull. Single rollers on round hulls = not worth the risk IMO.
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Posted: Feb 17, 2015 - 11:32 AM
I agree in general, just wanted to point out (for future newbies reading old threads) that the Hobie 17 is MUCH more lightly built than the H18 and should definitely have double rollers or cradles if possible. Never seen a problem on the "built like a tank" H18 but I do have double rollers rear and cradles out front on my trailer anyway. I had standard single rollers on my 1981 Hobie and even at my size never had the first problem with the hulls YMMV.
Here's what a little snow weight can do to a Hobie 17
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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN
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Posted: Feb 17, 2015 - 01:22 PM
i will try not to be stubborn and hard headed (this isn't so easy for me) and i will look more into this - thanks
Edited by MN3 on Feb 17, 2015 - 01:32 PM. -
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Posted: Feb 17, 2015 - 01:27 PM
fyi here is what the inside of that part of a mystere 6.0 looks like
think i'll look into double rollers :)
Edited by MN3 on Feb 17, 2015 - 01:31 PM. -
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Posted: Feb 17, 2015 - 06:07 PM
What about Hobie 16s? I've got a 81' Hobie 16 on single rollers, front and back... Something to be concerned about or are they plenty tough enough?
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Small sailboat designer, builder, and Cat Sailor. 8' Keelboat, Hobie Fox,Prindle 16.
Rear Commodore, Utah Lake Yacht Club - Mostly sail Hobie Fox (Formula-20)
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Posted: Feb 17, 2015 - 06:52 PM
New thread title: "16-18' Beachcats, lines, sheets, trailering, welding and hull bottom preservation" hahaha.
I've had several old Hobie 16's that have sat for decades on trailers with single rollers with no obvious damage or I'll effects. On rounded bottom hull designs the weight needs to be distributed on the trailer. I've also noted that some people use ratchet straps over the tops of their hulls and crank them down super super tight for trailering and don't loosen them for storage. That will crush the rollers into the bottoms and create soft spots on decks on any fiberglass boat I'd imagine.
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Tim Grover
1996 Hobie Miracle 20
Two Hobie 14's
1983 G-Cat Restored
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Posted: Feb 18, 2015 - 12:18 PM
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Posted: Feb 18, 2015 - 12:43 PM
Nice find, I didn't know those were commercially available. Looks like something that should be advertised on a website completely devoted to the boats these are designed for.
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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN
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Posted: Feb 18, 2015 - 12:59 PM
My single roller on each side are slightly v-formed. Not sure if the double straight dia. rollers will offer much more weight distribution. I scoured construction site and found a section of water pipe but it was only 8". Not sure 8 will do it for cradle, probably need the 10" as suggested on the web. Or flip the hull and make a FB cradle using the hull as a form. More work, less play.
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Posted: Feb 18, 2015 - 01:02 PM
I tried to segment, but oh well, it's only a H18 with so few things to talk about.
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Laser-Standard Rig (Sold 6/15)
H18 (Sold 7/15)
Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
Balt-Wash Area
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Posted: Feb 18, 2015 - 01:21 PM
you should talk with your sales team
I am going to talk with my welder and see if we can fabricate for less
anyone interested in a set if we can?
Edited by MN3 on Feb 18, 2015 - 01:21 PM. -
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Posted: Feb 18, 2015 - 01:25 PM
I (personally) like when threads meander around... that's how conversations are naturally -
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Posted: Feb 18, 2015 - 02:05 PM
Does little though when the thread subject hits google and searchers for a particular topic have to pick through info to learn what they searched for. That said, and while we're on the subject of refurbing an H18 how about sailing one. Do you carry a large flat head screw driver with you to retract the rudders when on the boat. I can't see how to release the catch otherwise? Sure want to miss striking ground.
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Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
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Posted: Feb 18, 2015 - 02:38 PM
I'm assuming your 1978 H18 has the original metal-cam rudder casting? They changed in 1987 to a replaceable plastic cam system.
The rudders are supposed to be able to kick up, popping the rudder cam up, the resistance is supplied by a spring in the lower casting pressing upwards on the bottom of the cam. The spring tension is what determines how much pressure is required for the rudders to kick up.
If your trailer keeps the boat high enough that you can put the rudders locked down into sailing position, you can pull back on the end of the rudders to see if the cam will release. Don't break off a rudder by pulling with all of your might, pulling on the end of the blade should pop-up the rudders fairly easily. (in a fully working system)
Now the bad news is that the original rudder casting system was replaced because as it aged the metal cams (which can't be replaced) got deformed and at some point they just won't kick up at all. Even if you are coming back in through the surf towards the beach at high speed standing up on the tramp pulling on the rudder tiller arm as hard as you can. (yes, I know this for sure)
Your first step should be to take the lower casting off the boat, remove the plastic screw and spring, clean them and lube the spring and threads and reassemble. Then test operation. There is a good likelihood you won't be able to remove the plastic screw without destroying it. I had one once that was so stuck and boogered up I layed the casting in the driveway and used a torch to burn away the plastic. Then needed to buy a 3/4 10 tap to clean the threads out.
The replaceable parts in your casting look like this.
If your rudder system won't kick up after maintenance, then the only options are to sail it as a fixed rudder boat (don't hit anything) or spring for the upgrade kit.
http://www.murrays.com/50-60331010.html
http://www.thebeachcats.c…pictures?g2_itemId=10836
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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
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Posted: Feb 18, 2015 - 02:47 PM
Rudder locking cams? I use my main sheet. Lift up the tiller crossbar throw a loop of slack over the cam and seat the line into it, pull forward and up hard and fast, sometimes I have to stand up a little to get the right angle.
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Tim Grover
1996 Hobie Miracle 20
Two Hobie 14's
1983 G-Cat Restored
Memphis TN / North Mississippi
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Posted: Feb 18, 2015 - 03:15 PM
There's no cam, just aluminum latch and spring. I'll lube it to get it to work including the pull up method mention by fxloop. Otherwise at $700 upgrade kit, I'll carry the old flat head screw driver to release the latch. Cost: $0
The fixed down position is quite solid with no play.
Edited by goodsailing on Feb 18, 2015 - 03:20 PM.
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Posted: Feb 18, 2015 - 03:33 PM
I carry a small and light as possible tool kit, ever since my h18 stay pin broke on me out in the gulf of mexico (with an off shore wind). luckily another cat sailor saw me and a group helped me get onshore, and jerry-rigged with a g-cat stay pin
i always carry (unless reducing weight in a race):
water, sunscreen, anchor, paddle, righting bag
knife in pdf (and 20' thin vectran, & small multi-tool)
Toolkit - flat and philips, a few extra soft and hard shackles, few extra common screws, ringdings, drainplugs, cotter pins and 2part pool epoxy for underwater/on the fly repairs, also extra line
and a cell phone in a otter box, in a dry box
This time of year i also carry about 2-3 extra sets of clothing (top and bottom) incase i go swimming (or others)
I had this hobie multi tool that had a hook on it.
if you drilled a little hole in the center of the plastic cam (nearest the hook in the picture) you could use this tool to pop it back up - when i got good at it, i could do it on the fly if the cam ever got locked down by accident while launching or other
http://slhobie.com.au/hob…sailors-all-purpose-tool
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