I trailer my cat to the local lake.My question concerns how to best stow the rigging while on trailer.
I have tried to coil on tramp but it was a mess. i have tried to run the wires and halyard along mast and tape them every few feet. it is a real PITA.
Next I will try bungees or velcro every few feet.
Ideally I'd like to not disconnect the shrouds and chain plates as I find those split rings quite difficult to deal with as i have fat fingers.
Just wondering how those of you who trailer to the water handle the wires etc when traveling?
Thanks
Question On Trailering
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Posted: Feb 08, 2015 - 06:29 PM
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Posted: Feb 08, 2015 - 06:59 PM
I velcro everything to the mast. You have to work very organized to keep it untangled. That is about the best way I've seen. Its always a bit of a pain no matter what you do.
Also get the split rings with pigtails. They will make your life WAY easier for the standing rigging.
Edited by Wolfman on Feb 08, 2015 - 07:00 PM.
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Posted: Feb 08, 2015 - 07:02 PM
These things:
http://www.murrays.com/22-9491.html
They will save your fingernails!
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Posted: Feb 08, 2015 - 07:47 PM
What kind of beach cat do you have? On my Hobie 16 and 20 I leave everything attached, half rigging on port side in a 2 foot diameter loop bungeed to port hiking strap, same on starboard. Trailer both boats 500 miles several times a year with no issues at all. Setup and teardown, trailer to waters edge is about 30 min. Did it this weekend on my 20 mast steeping, trailering to opposite side of lake ( low water ) included. Add 15 mins for beers and chats....
Use small 6" bungees with the ball all over to make it even quicker.
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Tim Grover
1996 Hobie Miracle 20
Two Hobie 14's
1983 G-Cat Restored
Memphis TN / North Mississippi
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Posted: Feb 08, 2015 - 10:32 PM
I bought some of those orange cable clamps from Home Depot. They worked great to clamp the coiled wires to the hiking straps.
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Greenville SC
Offering sails and other go fast parts for A-class catamarans
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Posted: Feb 09, 2015 - 04:45 AM
I have an ARC (supercat) 17. Just got it about a month ago.
I will try to coil on tramp once again. Do you leave the chain plates attached to hull or disconnect?
Funny story: first time out we were unrigging for travel home and after detaching port side chain plate I drop the screw it hits the sewer grate directly under boat , bounces twice and thankfully does not go in !
lesson learned: now on starboard side I lay down a blanket under boat and you guessed it I drop that screw ! It lands on blanket. Gotta go slow and be methodical.
Oh yes, not park over the drain in the parking lot
Edited by drjay9051 on Feb 09, 2015 - 04:53 AM. -
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Posted: Feb 09, 2015 - 08:34 AM
no need to disconnect any shroud/chain plate
undo your forestay
loop each shroud (in big loops) and tie to the deck using your jib sheets or your main sheet or travler - no extra bungees/velcro/etc just takes practice
you should have it all figured out in about 30 or 40 times :) -
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Posted: Feb 10, 2015 - 03:37 PM
I have a supercat 17 I trailer for sailing. I don't undo the chainplate (side stay extenders?) just wrap them in a dish towel and a bungee cord. I do undo the forestay then take all the slack out of the front and side stays and bungee the works up and down the mast. Tiller extender, paddle and sails all go in the sail bag and get bungeed to the tramp to the left side hiking straps with the jib sheet snugged up and clamped between the tramp and sail bag with those same bungees. The raise and lower ropes for the rudders get tied to the ratchet straps that hold the rear beam to the trailer. Main sheet and traveller get bungeed up to the bottom of the mast over the tramp where it crosses the rear beam. Two people I can be ready for sailing in 20 minutes. Undo all the bungees, plunk the sail bag on the ground, lift the mast up, connect forestay, clamp down side stay extenders, straighten out the running rigging, unpack sails, rudder cross bar and tiller extension and bob's your uncle besides personal gear.
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Cranbrook, BC, Canada
SuperCat 17
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Posted: Feb 10, 2015 - 05:22 PM
I have a SC 15. I coil the connected standing rigging to each side of the aft mast support and secure it with a shock cord.
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'82 Super Cat 15
Hull #315
Virginia
Previously owned: '70 H14, '79 H16, '68 Sailmaster 26, '85 H14T
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Posted: Feb 11, 2015 - 07:47 PM
On a boat with hatches, you can stuff rigging into the hatches, or you can coil and stragically tie everything down, on two oposite sides of the loops.
It helps if you coil the wires with opposite loops... which is difficult to show if you don't already know it, let alone type. But one loop goes one way, the next goes reverse, the third goes the same direction as the first. The coil should lay down flat very nicely, then tie two opposite sides with rope, bungie, etc... and you're good.
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Posted: Feb 11, 2015 - 08:39 PM
Coil left wires on the left and bungee to the aft of the tramp. Do that on the other side. Put bungee in trapeze ring and pull to center. This will keep wires from hanging off the side going down the road. Don't fight the wire, let it tell you how it wants coiled. Easy. We're talking 3' loops...laying flat on the tramp.
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Goodsailing
Laser-Standard Rig (Sold 6/15)
H18 (Sold 7/15)
Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
Balt-Wash Area
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Posted: Feb 14, 2015 - 05:00 PM
1. Unpin forestay and bungee straight down mast.
2. Drop mast and put it in mast stand and cradle in the trailering position.
3. Pull shroud and trap wires on each side forward toward mast stand and bungee to the mast stand, do not unhook anything. Do not tighten and kink wires. 1 bungee
4. Bungee dog bones on starboard to dog bones on port straight across tramp. 2 short bungee
5. Use some small short bungee along the mast and gather anything hanging down. 3 or so bungee
Do above in reverse to step. Been using this system for 20 years on several different boats, no coiling, no knots. 6 bungee in different lengths.
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Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
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Posted: Feb 19, 2015 - 03:16 PM
I know where you are coming from my man.
I trailer 60 miles to race every week and when I get there I'm in a hurry to setup. I need it quick but also to last the drive.
Here are some options:
I had these envelope style bags made, 18" square with a velcro on the flap. A loop of strap sewn on I coil up the shrouds etc into this bag and secure them to the tramp with carabiners. Works great! I use three. Port, star, and traveler sheet (smaller). We bought some weather resistant type stuff from the fabric shop and my wife sewed it up using a needle for denim and a residential machine.
The prototypes for this concept were made from the ends of an old duffle bag. They had zip tops and the eyelets for the shoulder strap are what I used for the carabiner. Ghetto looking but it worked well. The flap works better than the zipper though.
The bags make the tramp look nice and clean, I get compliments on them all the time.
Other option,
bundeze http://www.bundeze.com/
These are sweet. I use them all over the boat and on other things, super versatile.
You could wrap everything up with these then hook the remaining loop of shock cord to the tramp with a carabiner.
Good luck.
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Cesar (Cez) S.
Hobie 16 (had a few)
Nacra 5.2 "Hull Yeah"
Vectorworks XJ - A class (not named yet)
West Michigan (Grand Rapids/Holland Area)
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Posted: Feb 20, 2015 - 11:20 AM
This is what I've found to be easiest as well. It's stupid easy and simple.
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-Zach
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Posted: Feb 20, 2015 - 11:28 AM
Here are some pictures that I took of my trailer setup for someone else. It is mostly the same as what Ron described above.
https://www.icloud.com/photostream/#A3GRMtznGHWaJL
Also, note the beer holders and bottle opener with magnetic catcher. That part is critical.
Edited by PurdueZach on Feb 20, 2015 - 11:30 AM.
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-Zach
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