Somebody has to say it.. This hose clamp and square tube... they just don't belong there...
You know it works, test passed, you made your point.. Now it's time to solve it with elegance, don't forget that you are a honorable representative of the cat sailing community..
Well said. We've talked about simply drilling the hole. Would a hole belong there too. Or simply remove the device when not in use so to not offend any honorable rep or peer? We're talking about aesthetics now. I suppose prior to the advent of a boom, the boomless captains gazed a curious eye at that board hanging off the mast. Then as people used a boom as a part of the sail rig they became common, and elegant...
OK, I'll add powder coating, your choice of red, white, black or even silver to blend in etc.. and I'll throw in free shipping... this all in fun of course. get some retractable beech wheels in the hulls and then we'll be sailing Thanks for all your help thus far.
-- Goodsailing
Laser-Standard Rig (Sold 6/15)
H18 (Sold 7/15)
Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
Balt-Wash Area --
H18 spinnaker pole mount (which is the H18 gooseneck mount) should work fine. What was shown in the earlier post is a Getaway spinnaker pole mount. The H18 mount is different and is rotated 90 degrees. Regarding stress on the fitting itself, we're only talking a couple hundred pounds here max. The fitting should be capable of handling that. The other advantage (in addition to removing that block of steel from the front of the mast) is that if you ever decided to install a spinnaker on your boat, you'd already have the mount in place.
Another thought would be to create a bracket that installs around the mast step and is held in place by the mast step pin. Then once the mast is up, the whole bracket is removed. That's probably the route I'd go and in fact, I would make a separate pole specifically for stepping the mast and forget about using the boom.
H18 spinnaker pole mount (which is the H18 gooseneck mount) should work fine. What was shown in the earlier post is a Getaway spinnaker pole mount. The H18 mount is different and is rotated 90 degrees. Regarding stress on the fitting itself, we're only talking a couple hundred pounds here max. The fitting should be capable of handling that. The other advantage (in addition to removing that block of steel from the front of the mast) is that if you ever decided to install a spinnaker on your boat, you'd already have the mount in place.
Another thought would be to create a bracket that installs around the mast step and is held in place by the mast step pin. Then once the mast is up, the whole bracket is removed. That's probably the route I'd go and in fact, I would make a separate pole specifically for stepping the mast and forget about using the boom.
Good points especially adding spin later on. Good... , for the bracket you're talking about would be a 3 sided strip metal with holes for pin, same pin, screw driver, that holds the hinge and same hole I have here, to hold any pole, boom etc., That would rotate verticle above mast for pole installation. You could use just a piece of strip metal, bent twice in vice to form that piece, less work than cuting clamp slots as I've done with dremmel. Good thoughts. I'll make one up. The 3 separate blocks on the boom were cumbersome to deal with changing lines etc. That perhaps a couple of triples already rigged on separate pole would be easier, but adds to cost and more stuff to haul. Thanks for you inputs...
Here's the plug for the hole in the mast idea... something like this I had in mind if anyone wanted to go that route.
The hole is an elegant solution to my standards. Even better with a plug (except for the color maybe). A well finished permanent fitting too. What about the Laser boomvang fitting on the boom side, that would work with a screw driver?. (Or a dedicated pin, even more elegant..)
I would make a separate pole specifically for stepping the mast and forget about using the boom.
Why! That was Goodsailing's best contribution in my opinion
Using the boom is a nice idea if it can actually work in a simple, elegant manner. The problem is that it looks to me that it is proving to be more trouble than it's worth. Re-stringing the main sheet system each time with a longer hoisting sheet would be a PITA. Working around the existing gooseneck fitting may prove to be more cumbersome than worthwhile. Sometimes when you restrict yourself to using one piece of equipment, you end up placing a lot of limitations on what you can do. Yes, using the boom is nice from a minimalist point of view and getting two functions out of one piece of equipment, but if you can do the job better, faster, more easily, and more safely with a dedicated pole, than that is probably better. We're not talking about a lot of weight, space, or extra equipment to have a dedicated pole.
Ah gosh... jeesh, chop saw, drill press etc.. throw a bunch in the powder coating machine and you'd have many parts. They'd look OK. Or spray with Rusto paint before install. I would have done that but didn't have time... because I didn't know if it would work or not..
-- Goodsailing
Laser-Standard Rig (Sold 6/15)
H18 (Sold 7/15)
Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
Balt-Wash Area --
Re-stringing the main sheet system each time with a longer hoisting sheet would be a PITA.
Got that right, especially if you've not done it. You must keep close track as you thread it or you get lost not knowing which end you are feeding, then it's a clusterf especially with 80' of rope--Having triple on boom would have helped---. But it went pretty quick as I had some experience. Separate pole, and blocks would add to expense, for not a lot of time savings IMO. Longer to un-thread, than thread. Beside, money best spent on beech wheel parts now that gin pole is done. Thanks for your help guys..
-- Goodsailing
Laser-Standard Rig (Sold 6/15)
H18 (Sold 7/15)
Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
Balt-Wash Area --
I got a disguarded water pipe, just happened to the the length shown, stuck it in the oven at 300 until pliable (don't forget tin foil on the racks before setting them in) then ran them out when hot wearing welders gloves, threw the carpet on them and pressed them up underneath against the hulls, and whallah, hull cradles. The brackets will be the hard part,
Edited by goodsailing on Apr 09, 2015 - 04:45 PM.
-- Goodsailing
Laser-Standard Rig (Sold 6/15)
H18 (Sold 7/15)
Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
Balt-Wash Area --
Not to be critical but I am, looked at your photos and I see you have a winch on your trailer and saw the clusterf of a sheet going up to the pulleys...with the winch you DONT need any pulleys. As I said earlier you are overthinking it and making it more of a cluster than you need to Again, go back to the link for the ez step and study it and read the directions as there is no need for any pulleys and you could still use your boom for the gin pole . Sometimes it pointless to try and build a better mousetrap when there is already a 35 year old, simple and proven design.
It probably seem like more over -thinking than there is really.
I'll try that, but hope the mast crutch that holds the crank won't break off. There's a pic out there somewhere where that happened and where a plate was welded to the base for more support. The base on the crutch here is shakey. Also, when you stand up there to tension all the lines, there is no way you can crank the crank standing up on the tramp. My method has one hand on the boom to steady it, as there's slack in the line, and the other reeling in the sheet to add tension as I'm up there holding the boom. Could you adjust the crank line to a pre-determined length, marked by a sharpee prior to inserting it into the mast?... probably. But the crank is slooooooo. i did 5 or 6 pulls with the pulleys and the mast was up quick.
I'll give it a try and let you know how it went. Not having to thread pulleys, as mentioned as being a PITA, would be ideal including not having to carry a bundle of extra rope/line, whatever...Thanks.
-- Goodsailing
Laser-Standard Rig (Sold 6/15)
H18 (Sold 7/15)
Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
Balt-Wash Area --
[ I see you have a winch on your trailer and saw the clusterf of a sheet going up to the pulleys...with the winch you DONT need any pulleys.
Agree. What is the logic of re-stringing the mainsheet and dealing with all that mess when you could simply use the trailer winch? A hand crank trailer winch has more than enough mechanical advantage to raise a Hobie mast.
You will note on page 3 of the ez mast stepper manual there's a mast hinge comprised of straps which might add to stability of the gin pole holding it verticle. My case is a pin in a socket and there is no stability there, where tension on the lines holds the boom up. So, I'd have to get the boom vertical and with my hand on the winch line, add enough tension while moving down from the tramp towards the winch to get my hand on the crank to take up slack.... OK.. seems better than rigging boom with longer line. Worth trying... Thanks.
-- Goodsailing
Laser-Standard Rig (Sold 6/15)
H18 (Sold 7/15)
Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
Balt-Wash Area --
You will note on page 3 of the ez mast stepper manual there's a mast hinge comprised of straps which might add to stability of the gin pole holding it verticle. My case is a pin in a socket and there is no stability there, where tension on the lines holds the boom up
Quite honestly you are so intent your way is the best way your head is up your... Go ahead and put together your custerf@&$ and waiting to se your cat wheels (just my opinion from a cat sailor who has seen a lot in 40 years). I am thru even opening up this thread or your other until your head sees the light of the day.
Quite honestly you are so intent your way is the best way your head is up your... Go ahead and put together your custerf@&$ and waiting to se your cat wheels (just my opinion from a cat sailor who has seen a lot in 40 years). I am thru even opening up this thread or your other until your head sees the light of the day.
A tad harsh aren't you. I said I would use the winch not the blocks... OK we're done with getting the mast up... Thanks for your help.
Edited by goodsailing on Apr 09, 2015 - 06:45 PM.
-- Goodsailing
Laser-Standard Rig (Sold 6/15)
H18 (Sold 7/15)
Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
Balt-Wash Area --
I've designed several that used the trailer winch, all worked fine, just remember to keep the boat tied to the trailer while raising and lowering, or the boat will slide forward at some point, with unfortunate consequences!
I've designed several that used the trailer winch, all worked fine, just remember to keep the boat tied to the trailer while raising and lowering, or the boat will violently slide forward at some point, with unfortunate consequences!
Thanks Dave. I scoured this site and the web pretty good. At first, without thinking about using the boom, I built wooden pole from 2 x 4's but felt it too flimsy, plus I broke my hinge because I didn't have the guide wires set up right. I think now I have it dialed in pretty good. The next raising will include using the winch, as one advocated, in order not to have to thread the blocks etc. I actually got the idea for my little part from seeing a video that had a sunken hole in the mast for this purpose. Also, drilling a hole through the end cap as we discussed might gull the parts making it impossible to remove the end cap so... it's up to anyone where to drill if they just want to put a hole there. Good tip about keeping the boat tied down, especially after coming back, you'd might forget to do that...
-- Goodsailing
Laser-Standard Rig (Sold 6/15)
H18 (Sold 7/15)
Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
Balt-Wash Area --