One of the diamond wire rollers was broke when I bought the boat, and I busted the other one when raising the mast. Part #2 that I destroyed by accident. Cooler crushed it... So, since this is an older boat, with an older sail that might be replaced, do I really need those rollers anyway?
--
Goodsailing
Laser-Standard Rig (Sold 6/15)
H18 (Sold 7/15)
Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
Balt-Wash Area
--
Referbing Hobie 18 Thread
Go to page [-10 -1] 1 - 2 - 3 ... 10 - 11 - 12 - 13 - 14 [+1]:
-
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Feb 18, 2013
- Last visit: Jul 19, 2015
- Posts: 396
Posted: Apr 10, 2015 - 01:58 PM
-
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Mar 19, 2004
- Last visit: Jul 09, 2024
- Posts: 963
Posted: Apr 10, 2015 - 06:37 PM
Just tape up the spreader ends and all the little cotter pins really well.
sm -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Feb 18, 2013
- Last visit: Jul 19, 2015
- Posts: 396
Posted: Apr 10, 2015 - 09:08 PM
Done. Tks!
--
Goodsailing
Laser-Standard Rig (Sold 6/15)
H18 (Sold 7/15)
Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
Balt-Wash Area
-- -
- Rank: Master Chief
- Registered: Jun 20, 2006
- Last visit: May 22, 2024
- Posts: 7089
Posted: Apr 11, 2015 - 06:57 AM
You substantially increase the chances of your spreaders poking a hole through your jib (during tack/gybe) without the rollers.
worth the investment - at the very least tape the snot out of the ends to reduce this risk -
- Rank: Chief
- Registered: Nov 26, 2009
- Last visit: Aug 10, 2024
- Posts: 2531
Posted: Apr 11, 2015 - 09:03 AM
+1
If you sail a lot you will find those ends will wear on the jib.
You can buy rollers that snap on to the diamond wires, they are far cheaper than even a single repair to the jib, & once you buy a new(used) jib, you are going to have to buy them anyway.
Use a small zip tie, or wrap of tape just above them, so they don't get stuck near the top when you flip.
http://www.sailcare.com/sailsaver.shtml
Edited by Edchris177 on Apr 11, 2015 - 09:11 AM.
--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
-- -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Mar 19, 2004
- Last visit: Jul 09, 2024
- Posts: 963
Posted: Apr 11, 2015 - 04:00 PM
The rollers have been broken off my boat for years. I just taped the spreader ends up really well and my jib has been fine other than some minor black marks from the electrical tape I used rubbing off on the sail.
sm -
- Rank: Chief
- Registered: Nov 26, 2009
- Last visit: Aug 10, 2024
- Posts: 2531
Posted: Apr 11, 2015 - 05:03 PM
I use the colored electrical tape, comes in red, green, white & yellow. It does not have that gooey adhesive that the black stuff seems to leave. Not quite as durable as real rigging tape, but for 75 cents a roll at Princess Auto, I'll use it for taping all ring dings etc.
--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
-- -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Feb 18, 2013
- Last visit: Jul 19, 2015
- Posts: 396
Posted: Apr 12, 2015 - 05:01 PM
Hi, I got the sail up today and it went up a lot easier than expected.
1. I move the blocks for the side tensioners further aft and made them dimetrically opposed for maximum pulling on the tramp wires to keep the mast lined up while it is stepped with the winch.
2. The crank is a pain as it did get away from me and hit my arm..which stopped it from falling... Careful now.
3. The sail did rest on the wires, there was light wind, beautiful day here. I have them taped. Will probably buy diamond wire rollers should I get new sails.. good for now..
4. There's got to be an easier way to pin pins. Those wire do hickys suck. Having to spread the coil to start it through the hole while your holding the roller furler up is clugy. Having tension on the winch made this a lot easier. I couldn't imagine not using some tension on the forestay to pin it properly.
5. I practiced pulling the jib sheet and the pulley lips got caught on the my bungee triangle so I remove the bungee and it fed better. At first I thought the mast gooseneck holder would get in the way of the jib sheet but was not a factor. I'll look into pig tails, if anyone can point me to how to rig that I'd appreciate it.
6. I adjust the tramp tensioners
7. The sail went up and hooked with no problem, after I took off that flapper (thanks Dogboy. The only thing is some of the keepers for battons (mast side) are missing. Not sure what is needed there. Need to look closer at it. String perhaps.
8. I strung new jib down haul line to the eye in the wire that takes up the sail. Not sure of terminology there. Roller fuller works good.
9. I added bungees to the ropes on the dagger boards.
10. Traveler appears working normally...
Nothing left but waiting for beech wheel parts. Should be here this week.
Thanks for all you help thus far..
--
Goodsailing
Laser-Standard Rig (Sold 6/15)
H18 (Sold 7/15)
Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
Balt-Wash Area
-- -
- Rank: Master Chief
- Registered: Jun 20, 2006
- Last visit: May 22, 2024
- Posts: 7089
Posted: Apr 13, 2015 - 06:56 AM
ringdings can be hard to put on, but they stay on .... good fingernails are essential and as everything here .. it's all about technique
there are "cheater" rings that are easier but they can also get fouled with line much easier - (top rings in image below)
TAPE UP ALL CRITICAL RINGS so they can't get fouled and pulled
"strings" that pull up sails are always called halyards
a better way / place to tie your downhaul PROBABLY is:
tie downhaul line to the furler ring
loop line through tack of jib (front bottom)
run back through furler ring (now a 2:1 purchase)
and repeat till you have a 3 or 4:1 and secure with a rolling hitch or knot of choice -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Mar 19, 2004
- Last visit: Jul 09, 2024
- Posts: 963
Posted: Apr 13, 2015 - 10:19 AM
There should be a switch on the winch to turn on the ratchet so it can not free-wheel.
Connecting the forestay to the furler adjuster takes three hands - one to hold up the furler, one to hold the forestay fork aligned with the adjuster, and one to install the clevis pin. A much easier way to connect the forestay on the 18 is to connect the forestay to the furler adjuster before hoisting the mast (bridle wires disconnected from the bow tangs). When the mast is up, install the pins for the bridle wires/bow tangs - this only takes two hands.
This is also better for the bridle wires. If you connect the bridle wires to the bow tangs and let the furler hang down, you will see that the bridle wires want to kink out at the swage fittings for the bow tangs - not good for the wires. When we travel, the bridle wires/furler are completely disconnected from the boat and stored in the trailer box.
sm -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Feb 18, 2013
- Last visit: Jul 19, 2015
- Posts: 396
Posted: Apr 13, 2015 - 11:07 AM
Some good tips guys. Not sure why the rachet stop released on the winch. It's rusty. Perhaps I knocked it some how... I've looked at those rings/pins. Yes perhaps pinning at bows would be easier. I had to shave metal off of yoke on the furler to ensure easy alignment of the holes. Not sure why the yoke didn't clear the spool housing. What is the yoke used for? I see no purpose for it. Unless of course if you install a brass ring and run your anchor rode/ retrieve line etc. I intend to buy a shackle and pulley to make the furler line work easier. The weather is getting ideal now and I'm anxious to go sailing.... soon.
--
Goodsailing
Laser-Standard Rig (Sold 6/15)
H18 (Sold 7/15)
Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
Balt-Wash Area
-- -
- Rank: Master Chief
- Registered: Jun 20, 2006
- Last visit: May 22, 2024
- Posts: 7089
Posted: Apr 13, 2015 - 05:45 PM
not sure what you are talking about here -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Feb 18, 2013
- Last visit: Jul 19, 2015
- Posts: 396
Posted: Apr 14, 2015 - 08:57 AM
--
Goodsailing
Laser-Standard Rig (Sold 6/15)
H18 (Sold 7/15)
Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
Balt-Wash Area
-- -
- Rank: Lubber
- Registered: Oct 29, 2002
- Last visit: Jun 22, 2016
- Posts: 42
Posted: Apr 14, 2015 - 11:50 AM
The "yoke" you are talking about is the tell-cat (specific type of wind vane) hobie 18 bridle adapter. If you are not going to purchase the tell-cat wind vane then you can just remove the bridle adapter.
--
Randy Neubauer
Apple Valley, MN
2001 H18M
-- -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Nov 02, 2004
- Last visit: Aug 07, 2023
- Posts: 626
Posted: Apr 14, 2015 - 11:56 AM
That's a mount for a bridle fly..
http://shop.mariner-sails…er-Adapter-HC-CM7705.htm
--
Ron
Nacra F18
Reservoir Sailing Assn.
Brandon, Mississippi
-- -
- Rank: Administrator
- Registered: Jul 19, 2001
- Posts: 3445
Posted: Apr 14, 2015 - 12:49 PM
What holes were you trying to line up? Like said above if you aren't using that particular kind of bridle fly (I like it) then remove that extra bracket.
The bridle wires stay attached to the furler all the time so you shouldn't be needing to line up those holes during rigging.
You either disconnect the jib halyard forestay adjuster from the furler, OR as some have suggested, disconnect the ends of the bridle wires from the bows.
--
Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN
How To Create Your Signature
How To Create Your Own Cool Avatar
How To Display Pictures In The Forums.
-- -
- Rank: Lubber
- Registered: Oct 29, 2002
- Last visit: Jun 22, 2016
- Posts: 42
Posted: Apr 14, 2015 - 02:54 PM
Not sure what you are talking about....if your furler is in proper repair it pulls in and out very easily and I don't see how a shackle and pulley on the furling line would be a fix.
--
Randy Neubauer
Apple Valley, MN
2001 H18M
-- -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Feb 18, 2013
- Last visit: Jul 19, 2015
- Posts: 396
Posted: Apr 14, 2015 - 04:01 PM
The bracket now identified as bridal fly, through that, trough the bridal stays, through the yoke pt# 61980000. Sorry it was the bridal fly, that was shaved. Now that I know what it's for. The metal wasn't bent either. I may be able to adapt my Laser wind indicator, fly etc somehow. But it could be used as a haul/ anchor line, right, or better from bow stays as previously mentioned?
Yes, next raising will include pulling the whole unit down and attaching bridle wires at the bows.
--
Goodsailing
Laser-Standard Rig (Sold 6/15)
H18 (Sold 7/15)
Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
Balt-Wash Area
-- -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Feb 18, 2013
- Last visit: Jul 19, 2015
- Posts: 396
Posted: Apr 14, 2015 - 04:09 PM
Not my pics, yet from the web...
And, should you chose not to wrap the line around the mast.
$50 for furler refresh kit, plus new line etc, or pulley I already have... etc. There's so many projects with this boat that I might just leave it as is for now...
Thanks for all the tips guys.... boy I love thebeachcats!
--
Goodsailing
Laser-Standard Rig (Sold 6/15)
H18 (Sold 7/15)
Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
Balt-Wash Area
-- -
- Rank: Lubber
- Registered: Apr 24, 2014
- Last visit: Apr 09, 2017
- Posts: 98
Posted: Apr 14, 2015 - 04:20 PM
Looking at your pictures, you should totally eliminate the pulley, shackle, and the blue line. Run the white line that exits the furler drum straight back through the cam cleat on your front crossbar (where blue line is now).
--
Tim
81 Hobie 16
87 Nacra 5.7
Austin, TX
--
Go to page [-10 -1] 1 - 2 - 3 ... 10 - 11 - 12 - 13 - 14 [+1]:
Users on-line
This list is based on users active over the last 60 minutes.