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Referbing Hobie 18 Thread

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DamonLinkous

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Posted: Apr 14, 2015 - 04:21 PM

OK, that's the "1 to 2" system and was meant to cause the jib to furl twice as fast, I've seen a few done that way.

My opinion.. Totally unnecessary. I've always used the completely stock system, works just fine.

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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN

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goodsailing

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Posted: Apr 14, 2015 - 04:30 PM

QuoteTotally unnecessary

You are mostly right about that. How many times are you going to be furling the jib anyway during the course of day. What I want to know is do you really need all the jib line. How much pressure is on there taking up up all the slack to close hauled? Do you need as much purchase that you could remove those two blocks up front and just tie lines to the clew and run them back to the blocks on the tramp? Or put blocks on the front xbeam with jam cleat?

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Goodsailing

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goodsailing

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Posted: Apr 14, 2015 - 04:32 PM

QuoteLooking at your pictures, you should totally eliminate the pulley, shackle, and the blue line. Run the white line that exits the furler drum straight back through the cam cleat on your front crossbar (where blue line is now).

Not my pics.... There's not a jam cleat on my front xbeam... I put disclaimer. Pic was only there to answer question.. etc. No problem.. yes just go with stock set up unless furler is fouled then do the refresh kit.. Thanks much..

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Goodsailing

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H18 (Sold 7/15)
Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
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DamonLinkous

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Posted: Apr 14, 2015 - 05:04 PM

goodsailingWhat I want to know is do you really need all the jib line. How much pressure is on there taking up up all the slack to close hauled? Do you need as much purchase that you could remove those two blocks up front and just tie lines to the clew and run them back to the blocks on the tramp? Or put blocks on the front xbeam with jam cleat?

Is this part about the Jib sheets instead of the furling line? If so then yes, you need everything the H18 was designed to use. Or just try it a completely different way and let us know how it goes. You could have found a better way!
goodsailing

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Posted: Apr 14, 2015 - 06:52 PM

Jib sheet. My jib sheet, the blocks, got hung up on the bungee that was put there to prevent catches. The jib sheet blocks are original equipment. I took the bungee off and the lip of the pulley never caught anything. So why did people place the bungee there to begin with. In thinking so differently.

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Goodsailing

Laser-Standard Rig (Sold 6/15)
H18 (Sold 7/15)
Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
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fxloop

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Posted: Apr 14, 2015 - 06:56 PM

Assuming you find a good set of hobie 18 hulls, you could probably completely design and build a custom 18 footer for less than $4000 thats lighter and faster than an actual hobie 18 ( if you had a few weeks to engineer and source aluminum to make your own crossbeams and mast - or get used ) Heck, If you can figure out how to twine all your own sheets and halyards you could probably get that figure down to $3750 - $3800

Edited by fxloop on Apr 14, 2015 - 06:58 PM.

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Tim Grover
1996 Hobie Miracle 20
Two Hobie 14's
1983 G-Cat Restored
Memphis TN / North Mississippi
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goodsailing

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Posted: Apr 14, 2015 - 07:32 PM

QuoteAssuming you find a good set of hobie 18 hulls, you could probably completely design and build a custom 18 footer for less than $4000 thats lighter and faster than an actual hobie 18 ( if you had a few weeks to engineer and source aluminum to make your own crossbeams and mast - or get used ) Heck, If you can figure out how to twine all your own sheets and halyards you could probably get that figure down to $3750 - $3800

No but why was the bungee place there?

Added: I'm building a modified A cat hull 19' for my outrigger... way light and way inexpensive. It took only 2 gal of epoxy and is nearing paint.

Added: the reason I bought the H18 was to take it apart and use the hulls for either an outrigger, and if that didn't work, I'd use both hulls for a trimaran. Now, if you've priced tri's then.. you'll see my reasoning, however, the H18 was in pretty good shape it didn't make sense to take it apart and make another boat from it. The reason I'm referbing it a tad to get some use out of it. Besides, the DIY outrigger is not yet ready of almas, I basically needed another trailer too, as the Laser trailer won't handle the outrigger. Thanks for all your help... this is a great site.

Edited by goodsailing on Apr 14, 2015 - 07:46 PM.

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Goodsailing

Laser-Standard Rig (Sold 6/15)
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Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
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goodsailing

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Posted: Apr 28, 2015 - 06:17 PM

After tapping a patch, I drilled a bunch of holes in the aft port side deck that was separated. I injected a fair amount of resin using the horse needles less the metal needle. Yet didn't fill it. I waited to green stage and removed the tape. Mixed up more resin and repeated. I used squeegee to push resin in holes. I ended doing this 3 times. There must be about a pint in there. Taping was useless. I'll post pic when its cured.

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Goodsailing

Laser-Standard Rig (Sold 6/15)
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Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
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MN3

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Posted: Apr 28, 2015 - 11:04 PM

Quote
What I want to know is do you really need all the jib line. How much pressure is on there taking up up all the slack to close hauled?

There is a good amount of pressure on the jib sail and sheets - doubtful you could sheet tight enough in medium heavy air or when a storm pops up and you have 25-30mph (or more)

Quotecould (i) remove those two blocks up front and just tie lines to the clew and run them back to the blocks on the tramp? Or put blocks on the front xbeam with jam cleat?

putting blocks on the front beam (like the h16) would change the sheeting angle of your jib sheets, dramatically changing the shape of your jib (not in a good way)

you would also you would lose the 2 way (fore and aft) adjust-ability (a valuable adjuster)
DamonLinkous

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Posted: Apr 28, 2015 - 11:25 PM

goodsailingJib sheet. My jib sheet, the blocks, got hung up on the bungee that was put there to prevent catches. The jib sheet blocks are original equipment. I took the bungee off and the lip of the pulley never caught anything. So why did people place the bungee there to begin with. In thinking so differently.

The bungee that most H18 sailors rig from dolphin striker support rod, up to the base of the diamond wires and down to the striker rod on the other side is meant to prevent the major problem of the jib sheets getting either snagged on the rotation limiter or even worse getting locked under the rotating mast between the mast base and the mast step ball.

Were your blocks getting snagged on this bungee while you were actually sailing or just in the driveway? I think you'll find it works fine under way.

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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN

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DamonLinkous

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Posted: Apr 28, 2015 - 11:27 PM

goodsailingWhat I want to know is do you really need all the jib line. How much pressure is on there taking up up all the slack to close hauled? Do you need as much purchase that you could remove those two blocks up front and just tie lines to the clew and run them back to the blocks on the tramp? Or put blocks on the front xbeam with jam cleat?

Yes, you need everything to be setup exactly as designed. If you put jib blocks on the front beam you'd need a custom sail, the H18 jib is too big for that, plus it's not how the boat was designed.

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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN

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goodsailing

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Posted: Apr 29, 2015 - 08:31 AM

QuoteWere your blocks getting snagged on this bungee while you were actually sailing or just in the driveway? I think you'll find it works fine under way.

Driveway. What advantages are using pigtails instead of blocks? Would they too need bungee on dolfin etc?

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Goodsailing

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Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
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goodsailing

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Posted: Apr 29, 2015 - 09:27 AM

But I did pull them port to starboard and then back again... snagged up so I removed the bungee. The bungee caught the lip of the older block, org equip, housing.

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Goodsailing

Laser-Standard Rig (Sold 6/15)
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Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
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MN3

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Posted: Apr 29, 2015 - 10:30 AM

goodsailingDriveway

the bungee system works correctly on the water - the occasional fouling with the bungee is minimal compared to the contoinual snagging that will occur without it (occasionally horrifically like damon's example)

QuoteWhat advantages are using pigtails instead of blocks? Would they too need bungee on dolfin etc?

pigtails get hung up on diamond wires and anything else they can (during tack/gybe)
plus more pigtail = less jib sheet needed (and on the deck)
you don't want too much though... it will make sheeting the jib all the way, impossible

Edited by MN3 on Apr 29, 2015 - 10:39 AM.
MN3

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Posted: Apr 29, 2015 - 10:34 AM

goodsailingBut I did pull them port to starboard and then back again... snagged up so I removed the bungee. The bungee caught the lip of the older block, org equip, housing.

yard sailing is great for a dry rigging (and real fun with 2 sets of beach wheels), but i (personally) would wait till i had OTW time to make modifications

Edited by MN3 on Apr 29, 2015 - 10:38 AM.
goodsailing

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Posted: Apr 29, 2015 - 06:07 PM

Thanks for the tips...

Should I use the carpet. Won't it just cause drag when pushing the wheels under the boat.
Thanks

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Goodsailing

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H18 (Sold 7/15)
Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
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DamonLinkous

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Posted: Apr 29, 2015 - 07:49 PM

goodsailingThanks for the tips...

Should I use the carpet. Won't it just cause drag when pushing the wheels under the boat.
Thanks

Use it. Yes it will create some drag but you want a little drag to keep the boat in place. Especially when putting the boat on the beach wheels in the water.

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Damon Linkous
1992 Hobie 18
Memphis, TN

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goodsailing

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Posted: Apr 30, 2015 - 04:44 PM

OK, Beech Wheels done. The proof will be in the sand.

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georgeseary

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Posted: May 02, 2015 - 02:25 PM

The lessons I've learned from raising my H-18 mast, with the boat facing forward on the trailer:
Easiest way to raise the mast with 2 people (and by 2, you'll only need the 2nd person for about 60 seconds, if you're relying on a helpful passerby), is to attach a long line to the end of the mainsheet halyard. Lead this forward, to out in front of the tow vehicle (lead it over the top of the mast support arm on the trailer). The helper will pull on this line as you raise it up off the rear crossbar - you'll only need to lift it to waist height, the halyard will take the load from there.
You will need to keep it from swinging to the sides, which is very easy to do if you're not carrying any load while you do it. Use this method one time, you'll never want to do it differently. The helper (pulling on the halyard) doesn't need to be a gorilla either; The mast weighs 50#, but with it being a 28' lever arm to raise it, a child can pull it!

I do have an old step ladder that has been dedicated to the boat, the back/top of the mast rests on it while pinning to the mast base (keep it below/forward of the comp tip), so the mast is already above horizontal to start. The ladder also makes it easier to get up on the tramp to work (you'll appreciate this more once you become AARP eligable).

Lowering it is even easier, as the helper doesn't need to be out in front of the tow vehicle:
Reattach the long line to the halyard ring, wrap this line just once around the trailer tongue; Be sure to lead it over the top of the mast support pole on the trailer (more important when lowering than when raising). Again, you'll be standing on the tramp to simply guide it down, all the load will be taken by the halyard line. It's so effective, that you'll be asking the helper to speed it up when lowering.

I agree with an earlier suggestion to leave the roller furling attached to the bridles, and use the 2 bridle tangs near the front of both hulls to attach/detach. I use a solid pin, quick disconnect type, from Tractor Supply, that's much longer than it needs to be, but has a built in 1/2 circle hinged locking spring on it (It may be called a 'hitch pin', or 'hinge pin'). It's not stainless, but it's held up for 10 years in non-salt use. It's also not stored on the boat, but with the bridle in the storage box. I use these same pins for my Magnum/SX wings too - much faster than clevis rings.
Another advantage of removing the bridles is the ease of walking around the boat when you're working on it, and not having to do the limbo when walking between the hulls (remember AARP reference above).
goodsailing

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Posted: May 02, 2015 - 06:18 PM

Thanks for the tips.. yes there's the crux that another person is needed to hurdle which only takes seconds. Good news is: my weight lifting weights have 1" holes so I'll be able to slide some weight over the beech wheel ends and do olympic lifting to build up to the point where I'd be able to heave it myself, but it's doubtfull..... yea we're talking AARP but believe me when I get this on the water those youngins better watch out..

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Goodsailing

Laser-Standard Rig (Sold 6/15)
H18 (Sold 7/15)
Building 19' Tacking Outrigger
Balt-Wash Area
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