IIRC the stock,(& what I have on the 5.0) is 2 "doubles", with the bottom one having an extra single, below the double. Whatever you find for a good price.
There should be an eyestrap on the rear beam, center. For the 5.0 just tie a stopper knot at one end of traveller line. Pull free end through pad eye til it stops at padeye. Feed free end through the traveler car & tie off to end of main sheet. (Before you tie it off, run the traveler out to the end of track, & tie another knot in traveler line so that the car cannot quite go to the end under load).
If you don't use this second stopper knot, you risk the car slamming into the end of the track. It WILL shear off that little plastic piece at the end, & the car & all the bearings will go into the drink. You will get the car back, as it's captive on the line, but your bearings will be gone.
When solo & the winds up, I always hang the business end of the traveler line over the hull, just at the rear beam. If you are getting way overpowered it is easy, even from the wire, to do a knee bend, grab the line & let the traveler out.
I have it rigged 3:1 on the 5.7, but this is overkill on the 5.0.
If this is still available, buy the double/single for $30, then source a double with becket.
http://www.thebeachcats.c…and-a-harness-plate.html
Call this guy, right now.
http://www.thebeachcats.c…acra-5-2parting-out.html
Do a search on Ebay, quite a few parts there.
Edited by Edchris177 on Apr 11, 2015 - 08:57 AM.
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Posted: Apr 10, 2015 - 03:08 PM
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Posted: Apr 10, 2015 - 03:29 PM
Like this for the bottom 1/2.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/H…h=item2c99892c50&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/H…h=item4ae34f126a&vxp=mtr
If you can't find something reasonable here, just google;
hobie mainsheet block, or Nacra, there are plenty of 'em for sale, you should be able to get one with decent line.
Like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5…h=item234ebaec0a&vxp=mtr
Or this is better, it eliminates the single, giving a shorter system. We sometimes get "block-to-block" with the other system.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/S…h=item233f7bfe8e&vxp=mtr
Just don't buy one of the cheaper sets that uses several single blocks. Those are for use on a boom, which you don't have, won't work.
Edited by Edchris177 on Apr 10, 2015 - 03:38 PM.
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Posted: Apr 10, 2015 - 05:26 PM
There is a couple of people parting out Nacra 5.2's here on this site ,you should be able to get all the parts you need from them.
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Carl
Dart 18x2
Nacra 5.8
Acat
Windrider Rave x2 for sale
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Posted: Apr 10, 2015 - 08:02 PM
Ed, if your referring to this diagram from the harken site, that's a triple on the bottom not a double. If I turn it upside down it's still the same 5:1
The original poster asked about two doubles one with a becket and one with a cleat. That will not work as 5:1. How would you get to the cleat on the bottom without a third block on the bottom?
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Nacra F18
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Brandon, Mississippi
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Posted: Apr 11, 2015 - 08:55 AM
My apologies, thank you for pointing that out, you are absolutely correct. The extra line from the becket obviously needs a block on the bottom to turn around, I had a senior moment.
I'll edit the misinformation out of previous post.
Edited by Edchris177 on Apr 11, 2015 - 08:58 AM.
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Posted: Apr 11, 2015 - 01:00 PM
Looking back up at the diagram of the two blocks, the top block should have a hook not a shackle. This is not essential at all but it allows you go change sail shape on the fly when you tack (slowly). There should be 5 holes in the clew plate on the sail to support this. It does the same thing as an adjustable outhaul (kinda). My prior comment about the mast rotator was based on experiences in wind over 30 knots. On a normal day it is not useful unless racing when you might use it to over rotate your mast going deep downwind -
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Posted: Apr 11, 2015 - 04:45 PM
Good call.
We leave the sail free in the wind until ready to push off the boat lift. The last item is drop the hook into whichever hole on the clew plate you choose,(further back = more power) sheet in & sail away.
Returning, simply head the boat into the wind, pop the hook out of the clew plate, jump off & walk the boat to where ever you're going, the sail will sit in the null no power position.
Beats the heck out of undoing a shackle.
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Posted: Apr 11, 2015 - 05:38 PM
Make it look like this.
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Posted: Apr 11, 2015 - 08:31 PM
the picture looking down on the traveler is how mine was after i upgraded to a better traveler car. the 1983 model had a 4 roller ronstan traveler car with the cam cleat for the traveler on the traveler car. Concept about knots is the same (though the end stops on the ronstan were beefier) but if the picture does not match it is because you have an earlier model. if you do, you might be able to find the parts to upgrade to teh set-up above with a 6 roller ronstan car which will handle the load better. -
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Posted: Apr 11, 2015 - 08:34 PM
also in the picture above tie the tail of the traveler control line in teh bottom right to the tail of the mainsheet and make sure they are different colors. one is fatter than the other so use a sheet bend. -
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Posted: Apr 13, 2015 - 06:13 AM
Well the first weekend out was amazing. I rigged it 1:1 for the first day which had light air but the wind picked up yesterday. I rigged some cheap pulleys to make it 3:1 which worked fine but then the wind gusted for a minute and we took off at warp speed. Everything held up but I can see the need for good quality rigging in high wind. I think I need to align my rudders better. Is there a lot of pull on the tiller when headed upwind? My tiller crossbar is a piece of galvanized pipe that was put on at some point in the past. I'm gonna replace it with aluminum and try to tweak the alignment when I install it. Other than that it was a blast. I'm in Tennessee and when we were blasting past those pontoon boats I swear their mouths were hanging open. I put in near the yacht club and smoked the whole fleet that was out. Like... really smoked. It was incredible. -
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Posted: Apr 13, 2015 - 09:29 AM
Sounds like you're hooked!
The pull on your tiller is most likely a function of the relationship between mast rake and rudder rake, not rudder alignment. The easiest way to adjust your rudder rake (think moving the bottom edge of rudder fore or aft), is to add shims to the gudgeons on the transom. The more labor intensive method is to fill and re-drill the mounting holes in your rudders to get the desired rake. Ideally, you want the boat to turn slightly into the wind when you let go of the tiller so that it doesn't run away from you if you fall off. If you google "weather helm" there are several good articles explaining adjustments to get it where you want.
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81 Hobie 16
87 Nacra 5.7
Austin, TX
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Posted: Apr 13, 2015 - 12:13 PM
if i remember you need a well raked mast on a 5.0. forget how much but certainly not vertical. fix via mast rake and fine tune with rudder rake adjustments. -
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Posted: Apr 13, 2015 - 12:15 PM
there is (or was) an ajustment screw (nylon) on the rudder housing. i did not find them much use. That is how the rudder should be adjusted. Rake your mast back. Rake it back not so much if you are not using te jib. -
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Posted: Apr 13, 2015 - 01:06 PM
See this thread. Good info and I don't have to re type.
http://www.thebeachcats.c…nc=viewtopic&topic=11545
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Nacra F18
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Brandon, Mississippi
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Posted: Apr 13, 2015 - 07:41 PM
This ad is old, but he might have everything you need.
http://www.thebeachcats.c…iler-in-tulsa-2c-ok.html
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Posted: Apr 14, 2015 - 06:26 AM
Ok, I think a big problem is that I didn't focus on getting the rudders far down. We launched from a super busy fishing ramp so I got out of the way quick and came and went from a shallow beach so I didn't keep the rudders down tight. I'll be sure to do that. This thing was so easy to manage in shallow water that we are thinking about trailering it to FL for some beach camping. We would have our pick of a lot of remote areas that are really only kayak accessible. As far as mast rake, mine is back. How tight should the shrouds be? We sat for a minute when the wind died and a bigger power boat came by and we started seesawing and the mast was banging around a bit. I didn't want to stress the mast by overtightening but I might have done the opposite. It definitely didn't sound good slamming around. -
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Posted: Apr 14, 2015 - 03:37 PM
For your tiller, go to murrays sports website.
Part #s 56-0149, 56-0150, 56-5508. These should be the correct parts for your adjustable crossbar connection.have you gotten a main block set yet?
Your shrouds (side stays) should be tight enough that your mast dosnt flop around due to slack standing rigging. Have your sailing partner grab a trapeze handle and pull back and to the side at about a 45* angle to the boat while you attach the shroud (on the same side) to the shroud adjuster.Loose enough that you can grab the base of the mast and rotate it 90*- 110*. The mast will rotate freely and may rotate (flop) back and forth when waves or wake hits the boat. Pull it up on shore a bit more and it should put an end that. While under way your lee shroud will go slack. That's normal. -
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Posted: Apr 15, 2015 - 01:26 PM
i forgot about the shroud thing. dealer (and racer) told me and another guy to prebend the mast for racing by tightening them. do worry about tightening too much. the worst that can happen is what happened to my buddy because the dealer pulled on the trap wire too. it was so tight that he could not get the clevis pin out the next day when he was trying to pack up and get home. so only one guy pulling on the trap wire
