Welcome anonymous guest

Please Support
TheBeachcats.com

Nacra 5.0 Line Lengths  Bottom

  • I am ready to start test rigging my 5.0. It came with no line so I have to procure a complete compliment. With the HIGH cost of new line an opps is to be avoided. Here is what I have found for the diameters/lengths:

    http://www.thebeachcats.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=119388&g2_serialNumber=3

    Can someone please verify this info.. With little experience on the boat, the only one that seems immediately suspect is the main halyard at 52' (that seems way long to me).

    Thanks In Advance

    --
    Hobie 16 (3 formerly)
    MacGregor 25 (formerly)
    Chrysler Dagger 14 (formerly)
    NACRA 5.0 (currently)
    High Point, NC
    --
  • If it were me, all lines that are listed as 1/4 inch would be downsized to 3/16.

    The main halyard needs to be almost double the length of the mast. There is no wire on a Nacra main halyard like on a Hobie.

    --
    Ron
    Nacra F18
    Reservoir Sailing Assn.
    Brandon, Mississippi
    --
  • leeboweffectI am ready to start test rigging my 5.0. It came with no line so I have to procure a complete compliment. With the HIGH cost of new line an opps is to be avoided. Here is what I have found for the diameters/lengths:

    If you need ALL the lines on the the boat it can really add up. You can get going fairly cheap by getting a line kit from Salty Dog. The lines won't be the best quality and you can't choose your color, but you can get sailing for what a top quality main sheet would cost, and upgrade as you can.

    http://www.saltydogmarine…ath=421&products_id=4014

    --
    Damon Linkous
    1992 Hobie 18
    Memphis, TN

    How To Create Your Signature

    How To Create Your Own Cool Avatar

    How To Display Pictures In The Forums.
    --
  • Thanks Ron and I concur at least in part. Based on experience, I'm planning to run a 5/16" dia. main sheet and 1/4" dia. jib sheet.

    At this point, I'm planning to use New England Sta Set for everything except the rudder pull down and tramp lacing for which I've choosen Dyneema®.



    Edited by leeboweffect on Jul 18, 2015 - 12:40 AM.

    --
    Hobie 16 (3 formerly)
    MacGregor 25 (formerly)
    Chrysler Dagger 14 (formerly)
    NACRA 5.0 (currently)
    High Point, NC
    --
  • Thanks Damon for your tip on the line kit, but I don't agree with their choices for all the diameters.

    --
    Hobie 16 (3 formerly)
    MacGregor 25 (formerly)
    Chrysler Dagger 14 (formerly)
    NACRA 5.0 (currently)
    High Point, NC
    --
  • Yeah and I think they are all the same color. That can get very confusing. They may do a custom kit for you if you ask.

    --
    Dave Bonin
    1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
    1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
    Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
    --
  • Also those line lengths are correct. The 5.0 and most pre 90 nacras do have a wire halyard.

    --
    Dave Bonin
    1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
    1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
    Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
    --
  • leeboweffectThanks Ron and I concur at least in part. Based on experience, I'm planning to run a 5/16" dia. main sheet and 1/4" dia. jib sheet.

    At this point, I'm planning to use New England Sta Set for everything except the rudder pull down and tramp lacing for which I've choosen Dyneema®.Edited by leeboweffect on Jul 18, 2015 - 12:40 AM.


    I totally agree with the 5/16 and 1/4 for Main and Jib. I have stopped suggesting it because many on here don't like the smaller lines.

    Nothing wrong with sta-set. Lots of colors, fair prices.

    If your planing on something like Amsteel, a single braid, for the rudder pull down, I'd go for a double braid, something knobby like finish line to bite in the cleat. You want something that will hold it's round shape, not something that will go flat. When I sailed the 5.5, My favorite line for the rudder was sta-set X 3/16 but it's hard to find.

    --
    Ron
    Nacra F18
    Reservoir Sailing Assn.
    Brandon, Mississippi
    --
  • Thanks Ron. I like the smaller diameters because they are lighter and run more freely. Where I do most of my sailing in central NC, the summer winds are light to moderate and the lakes aren't that big so the comfort factor of the larger diameters is outweighed by the rig being more responsive/nimble in lighter conditions.

    --
    Hobie 16 (3 formerly)
    MacGregor 25 (formerly)
    Chrysler Dagger 14 (formerly)
    NACRA 5.0 (currently)
    High Point, NC
    --
  • QuoteThere is no wire on a Nacra main halyard like on a Hobie.

    Your Nacra uses a halyard that is part wire, part line, so you don't need the full 52' of line. I just replaced our '88 line last year, used 30'.
    Obviously, if you are getting a hundred feet or more, tie an end on, see how it fits, THEN CUT IT.
    I use a bit more than required as we store mast up. Once the sail is dropped I make a loop in line portion of halyard, clip the shackle into this loop, then pull the free end of line to the rear beam, wrap it around the beam & tie. This keeps the entire halyard under light tension, & away from the mast. Otherwise the wire will rub the mast, & the "ting ting ting" will drive everyone nuts.
    QuoteNew England Sta Set for everything except the rudder pull down and tramp lacing for which I've choosen Dyneema®

    I would be very careful here. You want a low stretch line, BUT, you also need a line that sticks in a cleat. Many of those synthetics are to slippery/soft, & don't cleat well.
    We have Sta Set on the 5.0 rudders, it's fine. You will need a loop, or ball on the end. It's hard to yank them down with just a knot.
    The 5.7 has line as Ron described, a hard knobby finish, can't recall the make.
    If your pivmatic cleats are not worn, 1/4" will work fine. If the teeth are worn, the thinner line goes deeper into the cleat & works better. IF you can't get it to hold, go buy 2 Clamcleat Midi (plastic are only a couple of bucks & will last years) & drill the old ones out & replace. I just did that on the 5.0...IIRC it's here somewhere in a thread.
    Lsstly, I understand what Ron is saying regarding 1/4" on the jib, personally I find it too thin, especially if you have noobs, & kids running the head sail in strong wind.
    Save yourself some headaches, even if it costs a few more $$, get a different color line for the jibsheet. The first time you get out in good wind, you will realize how smart you were...especially the first time you flip the boat!
    You do need to remove the front beam to install tramp.
    Use a spray bottle of soapy water on beam & hull tracks to make life easy.
    Put end caps on front beam BEFORE tightening beam straps, else you may collapse the beam track, making future tramp removal difficult.
    Grease the bolts, & remember 18 ft lbs, it's not a lot.
    re-tighten them after a few sails.
    Try to keep the huge smile off your face, the wife may think you have something else going on. The 5.0 is one of the best boats
    a recreational sailor can own. We drive the living sh*t out of
    ours, solo, two up, or even 3 with kids. I was out yesterday with the weather buoy showing 19kts gusting to 21kts. with a SW wind,the lake really piles up in the narroww/shallows coming into my bay.
    I was pounding it through 5 & 6' waves, at times both hulls under to the front beam. It can be pitchpoled, but you really have to work at it. We have made this old gal go 20mph, with 1988 sails.



    Edited by Edchris177 on Jul 18, 2015 - 10:48 AM.

    --
    Hobie 18 Magnum
    Dart 15
    Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
    Nacra 5.7
    Nacra 5.0
    Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
    Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
    --

No HTML tags allowed (except inside [code][/code] tags)

  • Options

This list is based on users active over the last 60 minutes.

Upcoming Beachcats Events

VIEW FULL CALENDAR

No upcoming events.