Hello everyone. I wanted to start by saying thank you for the posts on this site they have helped me in past years countless times.
I just purchased a NACRA 5.0 and started sailing it last week. Up until the NACRA all my experiance has been with Hobies. Figuring out the rigging was not to difficult for the most part other than the crazy Pivmatic rudder system. I do have one question, my 5.0 is an 88 an I cannot find any details on how the jib blocks attach to the boat. Currently they are attached directly to the inside edge of the hull with no adjustment other than loosening or tightening the sheet. I have looked at some youtube videos in which I can see there is a way to get some adjustment but I cannot get a clear enough picture to see how it is accomplished.
Ok now that I have rambled on. Does anyone have pictures of the jib blocks and how they are attached on a 88 NACRA 5.0?
Thank you
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NACRA 5.0 (current)
Hobie 16 90945 (current) Rehabbed and sold to many to count.
Hobie 18 (formerly)
Hobie 17 (formerly)
Hobie 14 (formerly)
Goshen, IN
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Nacra 5.0 Jib Block attachment
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Up until at least 1988, the 5.0 came with blocks mounted on a fixed point on the hull.
They did not have the track, as do the 5.7's, & some other models.
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Tyler holmes
Panama city, FL
Boat whore
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My 5.0 is an '83 model. The jib blocks attach to the hull at a single, stationary (no track) eye strap:
I haven't sailed the boat yet, but share what I think may be your concern which is jib lead angle adjustment.
Eventually I'm planning to add a track and adjustable car so that the lead angle can be adjusted to suit the prevailing conditions and foresail you're flying.
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Hobie 16 (3 formerly)
MacGregor 25 (formerly)
Chrysler Dagger 14 (formerly)
NACRA 5.0 (currently)
High Point, NC
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I have an '84 5.7 with the same sail pattern as your avatar, & an '88 5.0. It carries blue/white sails.
The '88 uses a single attachment point. If you don't have the stand up springs, try to pick some up. They are only a couple of bucks, & keep the blocks from banging on the hulls & marking them.
I would not get wound up about having jib cars & a track. We have whipped that 5.0 to 20 mph(GPS) using the stock setup & 25 year old sails.
On the 5.7, I hardly ever move them, only bringing the car rearwards in a big blow.
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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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You can perfectly live without adjusting the jib block attachments in both axis, as long as they are close enough to the right spot. It's normally at the right place along the hulls, but a worn out jib could require adjustment, for instance. You may also set the jib upper or lower on the forestay for that purpose, there's usually some room. If you want to know what is the relation, think of the following triangle looking at the boat from the side: The jib strap eye- The forestay lower end - the bridle attachment at the hull. Divide the horizontal segment length by the bridle segment length, it gives a number higher to 1. That's the factor to multiply the displacement on the forestay to obtain a corresponding displacement on the horizontal axis. (upper on the forestay means more forward on the horizontal).
Regarding in/out adjustment, the strap eye is not at the right spot. You can definitely point higher if you adjust it further in, near the strap on the tramp. A decent line from side to side is the easiest way, with one or two loops on it to select the position. Make sure that your diamond spreaders are covered because the jib will touch them more often.
The adjustable system is quite complicated, it includes a wire from side to side (not very nice for the crew), one cleat at each side for adjustment, a couple little blocks, adjustment line at each side and a shock cord.
I made myself an alternative system. I never adjust it though..
In my case the laser block is attached to a plate so its rotation is limited, it might not work as well tied to the strap eye on the hull. -
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Sorry, the suggested method is actually wrong... the triangle is:
Segment 1: from jib point to bridle point on the hull
Segment 2: parallel to forestay
Segment 3: parallel to the jib sheet (fully sheeted)
Factor = Segment 1 / Segment 2
Still >1
Edited by Andinista on Aug 10, 2015 - 11:40 AM. -
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Thank you all for the responses. Coming from sailing a Hobie 16 for many years I have found the info on the NACRA is a lot harder to come by. I think I am going to keep it stock and keep it simple. I will be adding the springs under the blocks tho.
I have only sailed the boat one time so I have very limited experience but so far it seems faster than my Hobie 16. It somewhat surprises me that the Portsmouth number on the NACRA 5.0 is higher than the Hobie 16. I might just take the NACRA instead of my Hobie to Port Clinton for the Green Island race.
Thanks again for all the info everyone.
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NACRA 5.0 (current)
Hobie 16 90945 (current) Rehabbed and sold to many to count.
Hobie 18 (formerly)
Hobie 17 (formerly)
Hobie 14 (formerly)
Goshen, IN
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Interesting observation. I think technically the H16 is a faster boat than the 5.0 (the 5.0 having a reputation of being a 'little' underpowered). However you can probably sail it faster than you could an H16. Simply because you are spending less time fighting to balance the boat. The best H16 sailors can get that machine absolutely flying, but you darn near have to trap off the transoms to do so!
Put a Whirlwind square top on that machine and you will beat almost everyone you meet!
Edited by Wolfman on Aug 10, 2015 - 09:36 PM.
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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As a former Hobie 16 owner, and currently a 5.0 newbie, I feel your pain on the relative lack of documentation and info.. It doesn't help that no one locally has a Nacra to help with a little OJT and provide some hands on insights to the Nacra way of doing things. I echo your thanks to the folks on this forum who have been the best source of info. I can find.
Oh, BTW, wait till you try to find spare parts for the boat #$%^&*$%^&()*^%&^$#$%^*& and if you can find them $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Edited by leeboweffect on Aug 11, 2015 - 01:31 AM.
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Hobie 16 (3 formerly)
MacGregor 25 (formerly)
Chrysler Dagger 14 (formerly)
NACRA 5.0 (currently)
High Point, NC
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Interesting idea, I wonder if the places I sail would adjust the Portsmouth number based on the square top sail. I wonder what it would be. I did look up the NACRA 500 which looks to be the current version of the 5.0 and saw that it did have a square top main. I also looked up the Portsmouth number which is 76.4 on the 500 still a bit higher than the H16. Very interesting.....
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NACRA 5.0 (current)
Hobie 16 90945 (current) Rehabbed and sold to many to count.
Hobie 18 (formerly)
Hobie 17 (formerly)
Hobie 14 (formerly)
Goshen, IN
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Leeboweffect
I've never had a problem finding spares at a good price for either of my Nacras. Murray's charges an arm and a leg for new only because the recent production runs were so short. Used parts are in good supply. The only thing that is particularly expensive are the infamous 'golden' end caps. And a little band saw love with some PVC pipe and end caps solves that problem fairly easily. If you need anything just post and see who has it. QUite a few of us Nacra guys swap back and forth. I currently have 3 spare rudders for my 5.7 (same as 5.0) at least one dagger board for my 5.2 and I think at least one spare rudder. I also have a few 5.2 sails that I can sell in a pinch. Pete Begle and Dan Berger on here can usually hook you up and New England Cats usually has most things. Other than boards sails and casings castings most things (blocks and the like) are universal.
Swaompfox,
The 500 mainsails will go on the 5.0 without modification. The jib may be a little trickier because they switched to a blade jib that is quite a bit smaller than the 5.0 jib. It will work but you may have change you attachment point.
Looking for documentation? Ask and ye shall receive (at least as best as I have found).
Manuals and parts catalogues are here:
http://www.goosemarine.com.au/content/manual-2006-nacra-guide-original-version.pdf
http://www.goosemarine.com.au/content/parts-guide-Nacra-5_0.pdf
http://www.goosemarine.com.au/content/manual-2007-nacra-newer-models.pdf
http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures?g2_itemId=35217
http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures?g2_itemId=35357
http://www.nautic-sport.com/wp-content/uploads/eclate-ancien-nacra.pdf - provides lengths of running rigging.
Here are some useful personal albums:
http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures?g2_itemId=74145
http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures?g2_itemId=71715
http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures?g2_itemId=35563
Various tips and tricks:
http://radesignz.com/nacra5.2redo.htm
http://home.comcast.net/~ragenpl/nacra/nacra.htm
In any case if you ask one of us can take pictures of any parts you are interested in and any rigging. All of our boats are rigged slightly differently in accordance with what works for us and our own preferences.
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Ha Ha, that's because I have them ALL! Eric was kind enough to send a box of brand new ones to me.
What???? Since when? You scurvy Dog, trying to corner the market on long blades!
Where did you say your cottage is again?
Keep one with my name on it.
Edited by Edchris177 on Aug 11, 2015 - 05:25 PM.
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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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I'm thinking of making some of my own if I can ever find any time.
I got a set of 570 blades from Dan Berger. I can send you a spare. I think I still owe you for the 5.2 boards.
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Dave Bonin
1981 Nacra 5.2 "Lucile"
1986 Nacra 5.7 "Belle"
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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