Anyone make their own tiller? I have access to a machine shop and a good local aluminum tube supplier. Seems like an easy task. I don't want a telescoping tiller and may just paint it. I don't have a knurling head but could turn some grooves for grip .
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John
Nacra 5.0
CT
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Tiller
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Posted: Jan 30, 2016 - 09:41 AM
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Posted: Jan 30, 2016 - 10:44 AM
If you don't care about telescoping, som epeople have used bamboo. Light, cheap, & more flexible without damage than Al tubing.
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Posted: Jan 31, 2016 - 11:39 AM
Nothing to it, I've done it. You can find used tillers for almost nothing though. Unless you are looking for something custom, or the material, labor and effort is next to free I'd just buy one. I wrapped the upper portion on mine in cork tape made for road bike handle bars and loved it. Metal prices are at historic lows so that should be in your favor for aluminum stock. -
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Posted: Jan 31, 2016 - 01:09 PM
I've seen folks use aluminum tubing from places like Lowes for non-telescoping variants:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_55978-37672-11405_0__
Then use this end for connection to the crossbar:
http://www.murrays.com/01-0064.html
Check the plug OD vs the tubing ID to make certain you have a fit. A bit of epoxy or a sleeve may be necessary.
Put a cork ball or something similar on the end toward you so as to not be shish kabobed by the thing in an OHCRAP moment.
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Hobie 16 (3 formerly)
MacGregor 25 (formerly)
Chrysler Dagger 14 (formerly)
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Posted: Jan 31, 2016 - 07:55 PM
Roger that on shish kabob. Thanks for the part links.
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John
Nacra 5.0
CT
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Posted: Feb 01, 2016 - 08:45 AM
If you have a pair of old ski poles, join them up and secure them with a pin. You can even keep the grip.. -
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Posted: Feb 01, 2016 - 06:36 PM
Aircraftspruce.com sells aluminium tubes really cheaply. I bout a 8' extension for my ACat for $15 I think, plus shipping.
It's the shipping that kills you however. I think that same piece cost $50 to ship because it was so long. After confirming it was the right size I ordered 4 of them to have spares... Same shipping cost. -
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Posted: Feb 03, 2016 - 01:10 AM
I made mine from a fiberglass paint pole. I wanted and extending one to use with the wings. I cut the threaded end flat on two sides to fit the swivel and pined as you would the standard tiller. You could do the same with a fixed pole.
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Bob
Indio Ca
1980 Hobie 18
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Posted: Feb 03, 2016 - 02:16 PM
i have had poor results with most homemade fiberglass paint sticks or thin walled alum as tiller extensions (like a Telescoping Boat Hook)
paint poles don't stand up to salt water and flex well and over time leave glass fibers in my hands. even with gloves
thin wall alum poles just get bent to easily and are worthless
Now i epoxy together broken hot-sticks (i have lots of those) if i want a solid stick
Making one from alum has pro's and cons but you could have great results for sure
Pro's
can be real nice if well done
light weight
strong
maybe others?
Cons
non telescoping (most beach-cat skippers want this feature, certainly not all
a fiberglass one is lighter and flexable
conductive (tons of lightning around here in the summer)
another POSSIBLE con in my mind is...
I like having a fiberglass tiller because if you beef up THIS part of the rudder system... If I fall overboard and don't let go in time (fairly common mistake to hang on to everything in your hands) ... whatever is weakest will break first. If you hang on too long to a fiberglass stick it will flex and bend (a lot) and eventually splinter and fail without ripping apart a rudder attachment, or crossbar, or gudion... etc. -
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Posted: Feb 07, 2016 - 12:42 AM
I agree with MN3, aluminum bends and happens at the worst time and become useless. I myself have had some success with the yellow fiberglass paint poles, however the don't last long in salt water. How ever expensive, if you are serious when you sail your car, spend the little extra cash and go for an Aruba Hot Stick. They are the Cadillac of tiller extensions. With care, good flushing, baring any serious accidents they will last for years. -
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Posted: Feb 07, 2016 - 07:22 AM
This is all great info. I suspect aluminum painters poles are low grade and thin wall. A good tempered 6061 would do better. Logan Steel is the metal supply house. They let you handle the stock. A few different wall thickness can be evaluated. We use .125 wall 6061 for work and that is way too heavy. The current glass tiller is pretty stout. Stay tuned for updated.
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John
Nacra 5.0
CT
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Posted: Feb 08, 2016 - 11:40 AM
You're a wise man Jim! -
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Posted: Feb 11, 2016 - 10:34 AM
I try. One of these days I'll get out to the causeway to go sailing. Hey, Hobie Midwinters is in 3 weekends March 4-6. Why don't you try to get your hands on an 18 and come out and race and camp for the weekend.
Edited by 911hobie on Feb 11, 2016 - 11:38 AM. -
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Posted: Feb 11, 2016 - 02:24 PM
weather has been terrible last summer and this winter....
i have been refurbishing Zack's old 5.5 for months now. can't wait for warmer weather
I will not be racing , but Where are you camping? -
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Posted: Feb 11, 2016 - 09:17 PM
Davis Island yacht club. I had seen some of your Facebook post sailing it, aren't the wings great? -
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Posted: Feb 12, 2016 - 09:35 AM
your camping at DIYC? i didn't know they would permit that - Not sure i know how to camp on mainland anymore :)
Yes the wings are a total game changer. Dry, warm, and if you stand up... it's like your 20' tall
pretty sick on the wire too
Edited by MN3 on Feb 12, 2016 - 09:35 AM. -
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Posted: Feb 17, 2016 - 04:35 PM
...if not decades.
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Sheet In!
Bob
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Prindle 18-2 #244 "Wakizashi"
Prindle 16 #3690 "Pegasus" Sold (sigh)
AZ Multihull Fleet 42 member
(Way) Past Commodore of Prindle Fleet 14
Arizona, USA
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Posted: Feb 23, 2016 - 05:31 PM
I made one from a dock hook extendable pole bought at Academy sporting goods here in Texas. West Marine also sells a boat dock hook - various lengths. Simple remove the hook portion and attach the end connector and your good to go. Cost me about $15.00. Works great! -
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Posted: Feb 24, 2016 - 10:21 AM
All depends on your amount of use and amount of cleaning and handling
Even with the best care, the mechanism that "grips" will wear out over time
I sail with a guy who sails about as much as me if not more (over 100days a year). He has taken his carbon fiber hotstick apart, added epoxy to the part that wears, and then scribes groves back into the area. he has had the stick for over a decade now -
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Posted: Feb 24, 2016 - 12:42 PM
Can anyone elaborate on how to take apart an Arriba FX-3
Also, what prevents the two halves from coming all the way apart?
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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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