I was just wanting to know if people wax their beachcats and if so, how often and what wax would you recommend? Also, would you just use a good automotive wax, or one that says it's specifically made for marine applications? I've been looking at Meguires Flag Ship Premium Marine Wax. I read a boating article where they compared a bunch of waxes and the Meguires seemed to be the best bang for the buck. Any thoughts?
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Marty
1984 Hobie 16 Redline Yellow Nationals, "Yellow Fever"
Opelika, Al / Lake Martin
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Wax On Wax Off...
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newglass2.com for my old white gelcoat boats (where the gelcoat is shot)
new finish auto poly polish for my imron painted boat -
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My boat's gel coat is still nice and shiny so I don't think I would need a wax for oxidation or chalking as there is none, just a good wax for protection and more shine. I use a low rpm random orbit buffer after waxing also to really bring out the shine.
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Marty
1984 Hobie 16 Redline Yellow Nationals, "Yellow Fever"
Opelika, Al / Lake Martin
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I have had excellent results over the years with this product:
http://www.starbrite.com/item/premium-marine-polish-with-ptef?category_id=561
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Hobie 16 (3 formerly)
MacGregor 25 (formerly)
Chrysler Dagger 14 (formerly)
NACRA 5.0 (currently)
High Point, NC
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While on the subject of waxes, is there anything that can be applied to black anodized aluminum to protect it from fading?
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Marty
1984 Hobie 16 Redline Yellow Nationals, "Yellow Fever"
Opelika, Al / Lake Martin
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I would still suggest newglass2
all you do is wipe it on and after a few coats it starts to shine - after a bunch, you can see your reflection in it.
i looked into this stuff after it was suggested on another forum and a friend showed me how much work it is to do a real wax/polish job with professional equipment
after initial application, it just needs an occasional wipe (few layers)
Edited by MN3 on Aug 04, 2016 - 02:15 PM. -
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I had read that the beading of water on a wax surface causes a small amount of drag so I just wet sanded and polished the gel coat with a DA polisher and compound. Here's the results from a few months ago. Picked up this boat for almost nothing because of the condition but it shined up nice with a few weekends of work.
Edited by tamumpower1 on Aug 04, 2016 - 03:31 PM. -
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new gelcoat can go a long time between waxing - it has a new and smooth surface
over time, and sun, and light sanding (etc) the pores open up and hold in dirt, grease, oils and dull up
old gelcoat can clean up nice but unless you seal the pores... it will dull up "relatively" quick -
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+1
I use it, in either that bottle, or the tubs of paste. One tub does a LOT of gelcote.
It has a long history of use with those in the business.
I put it on the old Nacras 2 years ago, they sit outside all year, it still looks the same as when we applied it.
After I compounded the H18 last fall, I applied that product. I know it's only been 8 months, but they still look the same.
I also use it, applied via a variable power polisher, to redo the lexan headlights on all our cars. Removes the haze, makes them look like new...5 minutes work with the polisher.
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Hobie 18 Magnum
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Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
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Wow, that starbrite stuff seems to be the best way to go. Star Brite star light, first star I see tonight...... you know the rest! Lol!!!!
Seriously though, it sounds like a really good product.
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Marty
1984 Hobie 16 Redline Yellow Nationals, "Yellow Fever"
Opelika, Al / Lake Martin
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Remember, if your hulls are badly oxidized, you have to address that. No product will look great if applied over 30 years of oxidation.
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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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I was watching a guy Santana 25 a while back with badly oxidized hulls.... they use Comet cleanser to clean them... I will say they looked pretty damn good when he was done..
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John Schwartz
Ventura, CA
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The original Comet contained a mild abrasive, great for cleaning toilets & the old porcelain tubs, but a no-no on the newer acrylic models.
It may well be a cheap form of compounding. After getting rid of the oxidation, you still need to wax.
The fellow who own a custom marine repair/detailing shop here,(and is VERY generous with advice, or selling me tape, resin etc), swears by the 3M system, but it is expensive.
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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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No oxidation on my hulls, just want to find a good wax.
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Marty
1984 Hobie 16 Redline Yellow Nationals, "Yellow Fever"
Opelika, Al / Lake Martin
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Sun is the main enemy here, and IMO the only fool proof solution is to keep the hulls covered. I do it, but it's a time consuming hassle. With the covers, I only wash/wax my 2008 H16 once a year in the spring using one coat of an easy wipe on/off product like Nufinish......the hulls still look like new. Polishing/buffing with a marine PTFE (teflon) product will hold up better, but it's a lot of work. (And be prepared for a slippery adventure when trying to climb/balance on the lower hull to right the boat after a capsize!)
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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16
Clinton, Mississippi
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Lots of great info here. I have a cover on my cat also that covers both hulls and trampoline and fits like a glove. It is made of a cloth fabric, has velcro and ties and is blue. So grateful to have that.
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Marty
1984 Hobie 16 Redline Yellow Nationals, "Yellow Fever"
Opelika, Al / Lake Martin
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