I checked the last rivets I put in, and they are 1/4 L x 3/16 dia. So smaller than I thought. I'll check what's out there, and may do some filling, and try 1/4 diameter rivets if I can get them. I have a pretty good swivel-head riveter but may have to look for a heaver model to borrow or buy.
--
Tom
NACRA 5.7 (1984 Sail 181)
Pennsylvania
--
Trampoline Track Repair
-
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Jul 29, 2015
- Last visit: Dec 12, 2024
- Posts: 594
Posted: Nov 04, 2016 - 10:09 AM
-
- Rank: Chief
- Registered: Nov 26, 2009
- Last visit: Aug 10, 2024
- Posts: 2531
Posted: Nov 04, 2016 - 03:21 PM
There is a bulkhead at both the rear & front beam. I attempted to use a 1/2" tube snaked into the lowest part of the hull, then utilize a small hand pump,(used for pumping out floats on a seaplane) to remove water from my 5.7 hulls, as you know they have to tipped quite far up to drain. I couldn't get it through the drain hole in the bulkhead.
I can't remember how far exactly from the tern it is, just poke a coathanger wire in through the drain hole til you hit it, then measure.
As for a port, no matter where you put it, you will end up sitting on it, you move around quite a bit depending on the wind, & number of people on the boat. They mount pretty flush, sitting on one isn't an issue. DON'T put one in front of the front beam, there is nothing to see up there anyway. If you do put a port in, be cognizant of the cross braces on top of the hull. Closely observe your hulls as the weather gets colder, with a light frost, (probably even with heavy dew), it should be readily apparent the structure under the deck lid-look again at the photos in the album. When you see it, mark it with a pencil, or waterproof felt pen, so you know where to cut. You probably want to be in the middle, so you can reach fore/aft with washers.
I would NOT use 1/4" rivets, something else will give before an AL washer on the back of the standard rivet will let loose. I mean the thing has held together for 30 odd years with NO backing. The other bomb proof option is a strip of AL. Drill & rivet one end, then one in the middle, then far end, as you hold the strip up tight. Then drill & pull the remaining rivets.
I was going to do that, but prefer sailing to theorizing, (I have 45 days on the H18 this season, plus a few on the N5.0), so i just pulled rivets & went back out that afternoon. If it eventually does blow up, I'll take another boat off the rack & go.,
Expoxy with some microfibres is stronger than you may think. Look inside your hulls, there is lots of "runs" from the factory in places that flex, in both Nacras & the H18. It's still there 34 years later. I used slightly thickened expoxy for bottom wear strips on the H18, & Mystere 6.0XL, it's still there, despite being banged on the beaches & beams of the boat lift.
If the end of your rivet puller is to big to get into a tight spot, do as Pete Begle has pointed out, just drop some small nuts onto the mandrel of the rivet, & pull it.
--
Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
-- -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Feb 05, 2011
- Last visit: Jun 15, 2021
- Posts: 575
Posted: Nov 06, 2016 - 01:14 PM
I had to replace a bolt rope tramp rail on the front beam of my SC. It was aluminum riveted to aluminum with SS rivets. It was bedded down in 3M 5200. After I drilled out the rivets it was still quite well adhered. However you choose to fasten the rail back on I suggest bedding it down in 3M 5200.
--
'82 Super Cat 15
Hull #315
Virginia
Previously owned: '70 H14, '79 H16, '68 Sailmaster 26, '85 H14T
-- -
- Rank: Master Chief
- Registered: Jun 20, 2006
- Last visit: Dec 04, 2024
- Posts: 7090
Posted: Nov 07, 2016 - 09:23 AM
if your fastening it down, why do you want/need 5200?
i don't use that anywhere i may ever need to access again -
- Rank: Mate
- Registered: Feb 05, 2011
- Last visit: Jun 15, 2021
- Posts: 575
Posted: Nov 07, 2016 - 10:44 AM
It spreads the load out along the length of the mating surface and stops water from intruding into the joint. If it's a place I need to get into that doesn't have a structural component, like the end caps on the crossbeams, I use silicone. If I need to remove a fitting bedded down in 5200 I use a variable temp heat gun.
--
'82 Super Cat 15
Hull #315
Virginia
Previously owned: '70 H14, '79 H16, '68 Sailmaster 26, '85 H14T
-- -
- Rank: Master Chief
- Registered: Jun 20, 2006
- Last visit: Dec 04, 2024
- Posts: 7090
Posted: Nov 07, 2016 - 11:31 AM
got it - thanks for splainin'
