Bought this cat a few weeks ago from a fellow subscriber up in St. Pete Florida but cant find his email so I thought I would post a few questions here.
First off, I was so surprised that you use a rope to attach the fuller and bridle. I have a Hobie 16 so it is a bit unusual for me. I keep my mast up all the time so is there something else more substantial I can use??
Also my port shroud is just tied with rope and the rigging seems very loose. I assume I can buy a simple shroud adjuster from Hobie and use it.
Couple of other sail questions like I noticed it was very hard to turn either way and I had some good wind. Seems the hulls really cut into the water unlike the Hobie.
My sails may need a bit of work too so I will need to find a local sail repair place. I live in Bradenton Florida about an hour South of St. Pete Florida.
TIA for any help and or comments.
Matthew
5.7 G-Cat
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I have been reading a bit about the Portuguese turnbuckle and did a google search but not sure what diameter to use. Found SS on Amazon with different sizes from 1/4" to 5/16".
Any idea which would be best.
Also wondering how much tension too use.
TIA
Matthew -
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I would replace the standing rigging and never trust rope holding a sideshroud!!! Murrays Marine in Carpenteria, California should have all the pertinent dimensions and Joel can have you set up real quick. All my catamarans have used the Portuguese line because it allows for easier setup and unlimited adjustment on rig tension. I use whatever line I have because I make certain that its wrapped at least 4 full loops. In my nearly 40 years sailing cats, primarily my Dart 18s, I have never had a failure. I changed my Prindle 18-2 to the same system. An added plus is that I can raise or lower my mast by myself by holding the line that attaches to the forestay and not have to rely on someone to hold the forestay as I climb on the tramp and hold the mast. (You need to have the stern toward the wind to allow the wind to hold the mast up as you raise it or lower it. Works great!!!) . -
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Gcat 5.7 owner here, I'll help the best I can. You can add a 10 hole chain plate like the Hobie 16 to the brindles, but like dartman says, you will find tensioning your rig much easier with the Portuguese turnbuckle(loops of rope), put your shroud anchor pins toward the bottom of the chain plates and tension with the Portuguese turnbuckle till it feels tight. I also second the no rope as a shroud. Go ahead and order a whole new set. I got mine from salty dog and it fit great. When you say hard to turn, does that mean in general or just when you tack? Make sure your rudders are locked down, and tighten all the bolts on them,if not they are a bear in any decent wind. They are not the best tacking boats, but much better than an H16. Not a whole lot to tune on these boats, make sure you have snug, even tension on your diamond wires and a good down haul. Not sure if barber haulers are stock on these boats, mine has them and I don't find them particularly effective, maybe a little bit downwind but not much.
Probably plenty of sail repair in your area, if you need a used main you can use a Pringle 18, Jibs are a little different since they attach to the crossbar.
I love mine, you have a great boat and live in a great area -
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Until November 30 Murrays is selling all rigging at 20% off with coupon code TGRIG. I am getting my first full replacement set, and this is the best deal I've seen yet.
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Tom
NACRA 5.7 (1984 Sail 181)
Pennsylvania
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Looks like my other shroud adjuster is a 10 hole so I will get one of those today.
Rigging was recently replaced.
I have only sailed her for a couple of hours and I could not get the boat to tack. Tried several times and finally get her to do a 180. Maybe that was a bit too much at once?
Any other thoughts and tips would be appreciated. -
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https://www.amazon.com/gp…UK2WDWT8B7Q9&th=1&psc=1.
NO, I would not use that, they are slow to adjust, & you really should tie a locking wire/string through the hole in the barrel to prevent self unthreading.
If you have to undo a shackle, why bother with the threaded barrel.
A Portuguese turnbuckle looks like this, (I think this is MN3's setup)
It gives you a strong purchase, rig it so you are pulling own on the final turn, using hi-tech slippery line, it slides fairly easily.
This is what I used on my Nacra 5.7, similiar boat to your G-Cat
It is a doubled PTB. I also leave my cat in the back yard, mast up. Here is the explanation of how it works.
http://www.thebeachcats.c…pictures?g2_itemId=88327
As noted, I eventually went to one of these;
http://www.westmarine.com…_065_008_509?recordNum=9
I was advised to use the large one, 1000lb working load.
I pull it to the closed position to sail, then once back at the dock, simply pull the safety pin, & open th lever. That de tensions the rig in a couple of seconds.
Edited by Edchris177 on Nov 27, 2016 - 11:58 AM.
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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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I am currently using the Portuguese turnbuckle with the rope just makes me a bit nervous never using one before.
What is that mechanism you show in your photo Edchris177?
You use that in place of the Portuguese turnbuckle now? -
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Sorry did not see the link before.
What did you use to connect the furler and forestay? -
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I'm in Bradenton beach... rented gcats for years still have a 6.1m that we have raced quite a bit for the last 5 years or so till we just recently got something newer and slightly faster.. We tied our 6.1 with a beach bum version of the Portuguese turnbuckle works just fine just make sure it's "good n tight". -
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You CAN use high modulus line (ie. dynema, vecrtan, etc) . It is as strong as steel cable but is subject to chafe... so a shackle is preferable - esp since you will be side loading it while furling
My GUESS is your rudders are out of alignment if you have a hard time steering - it should be easy to make course adjustments with a few knots of wind
There are lots of sail lofts in St Pete -
Doyle (i have had mixed results with them)
MastHead
Calvert (now called something else) and others - they can all fix you up
many others too....
You can use high modulus line (ie. dynema, vecrtan, etc) AS a shroud, or to lash a shroud down...BUT it's not standard for MOST beach cat (although a lot of A-cats do this - but they don't leave their boats mast up on the beach often ... and are mostly raceboats that want to cut weight and meticulously maintain their gear)
i would recommend the standard side stay adjusters and steel cable for longevity and to stop any jerk on the beach from cutting your stay with a knife.
like your hobie 16, you need to keep speed through the tack, also g-cats need to let the jib backwind (after the wind switches from port to stbd (or vice versa) you should not blow the jib (release) for a few seconds to help turn the bows through the "no sail zone" (you can't sail directly into the wind, or approx 23* in either direction)
They rent G-cats in Long Boat Key
may be worth the time and money to go rent one
they will give you a lesson... you can ask 1,000,000 questions at that time too -
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More like 45* either side of head into wind.
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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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i think your right!
thanks for keeping me honest
PS - wikileaks says " , the no-go zone may be from 30 to 50 degrees either side of the wind, a 60- to 100-degree area centered on the wind direction."
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Point_of_sail -
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We are the one that rented gcats.. its in Bradenton Beach.. we no longer rent gcats we have hobie getaways right now.. if you want a lesson come on out happy to help! -
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A couple of other questions....
I noticed one of the end caps are missing on the middle cross beam, any idea where I can get one of those or get one fabricated?
The tip on the port hull looks like it was damaged and somewhat repaired, the starboard hull has a bumper on the tip covered with a metal protector, any chance they are available somewhere?
Also just noticed a dent/damaged area on the back side of the starboard rudder. Can I fill that with something like Marine Tex? Not sure what these rudders are made of...
Hey G-Catpat are you guys just North of the Tiki Hut (Gulf Drive Cafe). I saw some Cats out there last week when I was there. Looked like a big Narca with a mylar sail?
I live and work in Palma Sola Harbour condo on Cortez road and have both the Hobie 16 and 5.7 G-cat sitting behind my condo on Palma Sola Bay.
I have sailed many times out back of AMI (ICW) but always wondered if I could take one of the cats under the Manatee Bridge or Cortez Bridge under sail. I have taken my other sailboats under the bridge but always motoring. -
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Your beam is most likely a hobie 16 mast section. so you could look for one of those, but also look through ebay and this site classified...lots of boats being parted out -
need a pic to understand what a bumper / cover is... my guess it is probably covering a much more severe dent/crack
yup marine tex would work. glass mat and thickened epoxy or thickened gelcoat would be better
lots of youtubes on how to repair rudders
I have a buddy who has a timeshare on LBK. He keeps his gcat mast up at a hotel (the diplomat) on the beach (gulf side) for the week (he has a dozen friends who stay there this week). I sailed with him iinto sarasotta bay. we anchored up right at the Chart House.
Word of caution..... just in case you didn't know this:
due to the slope of the gulf around there, the waves are extreme around there (the diplomat hotel area and south - i don't know about north) . so extreme that you need to be able to perfectly manage your launch/beaching or your risking catastrophic damage (broken rudders or castings), and perhaps worse (capsize in the surf)
I would personally suggest you MASTER cat sailing before you attempt to beach or even sail close to the beach at LBK area (i personally did not enjoy crewing in those conditions, and would not do it again.. )
About sailing under a span bridge:
Sailing a cat under a span bridge isn't a big deal as long as you know the boat, the current, the waters (depth and surf).... But you have to be ready to handle the boat when the current is against you, and the bridge support blocks all your wind....If you do it right, no issues, do it wrong and your may be pushing your boat off a bridge span support (and oysters)... I've "kissed" the sand key bridge when i was starting out and miss judged the current -
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Yea that's us we just got the nacra carbon 20 a few months ago plan on doing some serious racing and eventually rides/advanced lessons... probably have some end caps laying around.. you can sail under the bridge bring a paddle and a horn I think 1 long and 2 short honks and hope they hear you I would go out manatee side current can be pretty bad at longboat bridge.. -
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Go to my Furling Album, then scroll down to the last few items to see the explanation.
http://www.thebeachcats.c…pictures?g2_itemId=88268
I decided to use the lever on the forestay as I had just had new shrouds made, & needed to cut the forestay to accommodate the furler anyway. It also means I tension the jib & the rig from the same spot. Makes it a 10 second exercise to tension & de-tension both.
An Olympic gold medal Tornado sailor advised me to use the large,(1000lb working load) lever.
I fully get that most people would say, "why not just use the PTB?"
My Cats sit fully rigged,(except for mainsail), on modified Seadoo lifts. It was difficult to stand in waist deep water & try to tie/untie knots that were well over my head.
Edited by Edchris177 on Dec 03, 2016 - 11:47 AM.
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Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap
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I was just by chance reading your furling info as your reply came up. Read it the first time and it went over my heard so I am gonna read it one more time.... Thank you.
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