Thanks for the correction. A stainless bolt into aluminum would not make much sense for this application.
I can say that once they seize, it's pretty amazing how badly they do. I researched various extraction methods and nothing worked.
One of the 18s I purchased years ago had separate cracked rear crossbar included in the box of parts. I hung on to it for a couple years but finally threw it away. I would have pulled those castings out if had known they would be getting rare.
-- Bill Mattson
Prindle 19 "Gelli Bean"
Prindle 19 "Cat's Pajamas"
Nacra 5.2 (Will sail her a bit and let her name herself) --
So i removed the INBOARD hex bolt from the other hull. I found that the bolt from the parts box I was trying to thread up into the casting was an inch and a half too short. HA!
If you order a new bolt make sure you call and have them measure to make sure there is 2" of thread. Pull out a good bolt and measure the bolt length and have them verify that too. I went back and fourth with hobie last year about this. They changed their supply of crossbar bolts and they don't have enough thread on them so they can't screw in all the way and stop about an 1/8-1/4" short.
Murrays had one front bolt left that had enough thread. Every other online place I could find had only 1.5" of thread. Ironically on the underside of almost every H18 crossbar is a sticker saying you must have a bolt with 2" of thread lol.
The underside of my '84 H18
-- Hobie 18 Magnum
Dart 15
Mystere 6.0XL Sold Was a handful solo
Nacra 5.7
Nacra 5.0
Bombardier Invitation (Now officially DEAD)
Various other Dock cluttering WaterCrap --
There's nothing particularly special about the rear crossbar bolts. I just order some replacements for my boat from McMaster Carr. 316 Stainless Steel Socket Head Screw, 3/8"-16 Thread Size, 2-1/2" Long, Fully Threaded. It was $10 for a box of 5.